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  1. Hi Keenon, I actually brought this same question up to our local Ultimaker support representatives (FBCR8). They had me reach out to Polymaker were I asked if there was any issues with the material profile. They mentioned that this shouldn't happen with their most recent material profile. I re-synced my S5 to Cura and haven't had any issues since. If that doesn't work maybe try deleting the profile off the machine, forcing it to download. As always make sure your Cura is up to date. If those don't work reach out to directly to Polymaker, they were great to work with. We love the PA6-CF, such a capable material for end-use parts.
  2. Well if I would have just scrolled down a little farther.. Thank you for the help! First time messing around with the API's and it went smoothly. 🙂
  3. I would like to remove a material profile from my S5's material list. I no longer use the material and would prefer it not be in the list. I have removed it from my account and cura. According to this article materials are one-way synced and not deleted off the machine when removed from Cura.
  4. Yes, the sliding blocks and copper bushings get replaced with the belts, they are one assembly. They can be un-assembled, but I wouldn't recommend it. Doesn't look like you're in the US, but here's what the belts should look like for your UM2+ https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/sliding-block-setum2series https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/timing-belt-200-x2
  5. I'd say the biggest artifact's that I was noticing was "waving" on the sides of prints that are aligned with the X and Y axis. Say you print a cube that's parallel to the X axis.. if you have any slop or wear on the belts it can cause waving effects on the outside perimeters of the print. Additionally, when printing at small layer heights (<0.1mm) you will notice layers not lining up especially on long straight runs in the X or Y direction. The misalignment is very subtle, but can be felt if you run your finger nail across the part. This isn't a picture of my print, but an example of what you might see. Ultimaker recommends that there should be no more than 20% of the belt tooth missing, if you have a newer machine that doesn't have as many hours maybe you can compare. Not trying to sell you on getting new belts, if its working and you're happy with the prints I wouldn't worry about it. The risk is high if a belt fails so I always try to stay ahead of items like that.
  6. I found that my print quality decreased slightly. If you're printing visual models it might concern you, but 90% of my prints are end-use parts so I don't care too much if they have small artifacts. I also noticed that black belt dust was piling up on top of the steppers in the rear of the machine. It starts to get everywhere and leaves black streaks on the white interior of the machine, very annoying. I'd say 5k hours is pushing it on a set of belts so it boggles my mind you got 20k hours on a set. Changing them isn't expensive (I'd recommend changing the short belts too while you have it apart), costs less than $100 here in the US from fbrc8. I have linked Erin's instructions on how to change the belts below.. its a lot of steps, but straight forward. Anyone that's mechanically inclined can do it in <2 hours. https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207813353-XY-Axes-Parts-Belts-Pulleys-Motors-
  7. I've had my UM2 (recently upgraded to UM2+) for 5 years and put close to 4k hours on it. You can certainly get more then 5 years out of it.. as long as you stay ahead on your maintenance. The largest maintenance cost will be changing the six belts (<$100 here in the US) which I did at around 3500 hours. Like gr5 said there will be other small maintenance costs that are more regular. I've also been told there's UM2's in the wild that have over 10k hours and are on their fourth set of belts. For a business I'd look at doing a 3-5 year depreciation.
  8. Thank you I will try that tonight. Out of curiosity how would you print something similar if there wasn't two pieces thus not giving it much time too cool? I have a few other prints that would have the same type of problems.
  9. Hey everyone. I have a quick question. I have been doing some prints with very fine detail at the top and it seems like I cant get my settings to not smush the top. I understand the layers are very small therefor the material doesnt have time to cool. Is there a solution to making these details turn out better. Below is what I am trying to print. I have not tried the tail of the fish yet. The mouth where it comes up is were the printer smashes the print. Any help would be great! Erik
  10. Thanks for the quick response! It really only clicks when I slice with the default "fast" print setting in Cura. I have a feeling the machine is just trying to push too much filament at once. If I run the machine on normal or high settings it prints fine. Right now I have my tensioner sitting right in the middle. Is the default "fast" setting just too much for the machine or do I have to make some adjustments.
  11. I understand this topic has been covered multiple times before, but I can't find a good solution. I just got an Ultimaker 2 a few days ago and the extruder will not stop clicking. It doesn't really effect the prints unless I try to print on the "fast" preset. However, when the machine goes to it's dump zone and dumps the extruder skips a lot while making some pretty bad noises. I have tried to play with the tensioner on the back but no setting seems to work. I have tried it all the way loose (white peg up) and half way tight (white peg middle). I pushed some filament through the nozzle and it was clear of jams along with the bowden tube. Any ideas would be great! Despite the extruder problems I have been very happy with the Ultimaker. Erik
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