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NBroenner

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About NBroenner

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    Education
    Engineering
  • Country
    DE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Hallo @laserb, 1 + 2 has been done as out of filament sensor: http://tunell.us/. This sensor can be monitored by the printer with the firmware from @tinkergnome. See https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin. Option 3 would only make sense in a closed cabin, like http://3dprintclean.com/desktop-enclosure.htm - these already have a thermal shutdown .... Option 4 - 6 maybe done by Octoprint http://octoprint.org/ ? Regards, Nils
  2. @bondtech: sorry hatte vergessen, dass die anderen Werte in der UltiLCD2_menu_material.h stehen. Aber genau das hatte ich mir gedacht. Vielleicht sollte das in der GUI konfigurierbar sein, um es anpassen zu können, wie schon die E-steps. Danke und Gruß, Nils
  3. Hallo zusammen, ich habe auch einen Bondtech QR an einem UM2. Aktuell befindet sich der Drucker noch im Umbau. Danach werde ich auch ein angepasste Firmware auf Basis der Version von @tinkergnome aufspielen. @bondtech Was genau hast Du in der Firmware von @tinkergnome denn angepasst ? Nur die Werte in der Configuration.h ? Gruß, Nils
  4. Hallo Harry, sicher: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,282} Das sind X, Y, Z und Extruder. Die Erkenntnis kommt ursprünglich von @tinkergnome. Sag mal warum hast du nicht die angegebenen 490 eingestellt ? Gruß, Nils
  5. Hallo Harry, das geht nämlich auch in der Configuration.h der Firmware :-). Habe mir jetzt auch einen bestellt - danke nochmal bzgl. deiner Tests. Verwendest du einen standard 25W Heizelement oder die 35 W Variante von 3dsolex ? Ich habe mir die letztere bestellt ... mal sehen was der UM2 dann so alles vollbringt an Geschwindigkeit und Heizkraft :-) Nutzt du bei Symplify3d eigentlich das Standard Profile für den UM2 ? Ich hatte damals beim Support von Symplify3d nachgefragt und habe eine Version erhalten, die per M-Befehl die Stromstärke auf 1400 mA hochsetzt. M907 E1400; increase extruder stepper current to 1400ma Das sollte man wahrscheinlich hier nicht mehr machen, oder ? Gruß, Nils
  6. Hallo Harry, hast du die e-steps in der Firmware oder über das Menü angepasst ? Gruß, Nils
  7. Hallo Harry, mich interessiert der Extruder auch. Bitte berichte, sobald Du ihn hast. Gruß, Nils
  8. Hallo @frederiekpascal, I already own this combination, but as you stated it is still open. My current plan would be to close the chamber on the back and to put the feeder stepper on the outside. Maybe I will also flip X/Y Steppers to the outside, but this is a firmware question.... The rest will be sealed with silicon (joints / gaps) and / or foil. Then I will attach a scrubber to it and that should do the job .... I hope Thanks and regards, Nils
  9. Thanks guys, the primary reason for this enclosure is the scrubber. Maybe I will seal off the printing chamber of my UM2 by myself and add such a scrubber. This would leave the electronic board without excessive heat, but will be very difficult in order to get this "cheese" air-tight .... Thanks and regards, Nils
  10. Hallo everybody, I am planning to use a Desktop 600 Enclosure of 3dprintclean Link with my Ultimaker 2. This enclosure is completely closed and has a pre-heater as optional add-on. My questions are regarding the operation: The pre-heater can heat up the whole chamber. Does this limit the operation time of components? What would be a maximum recommended chamber temperature in order to prolong the lifetime of stepper / electronics etc. but at the same time produce an optimal ABS printout. Did the research and development team experiment with closed chambers (I assume they did)? If yes, what were the results? What are the (dis)advantages? Does anyone already own this combination? What are your experiences with the enclosure? What kind of filaments did you already print? Thanks and regards, Nils
  11. Hi Guglielmo, thank you very much. I am thinking on getting one of these tunnel sensors, too. Regards, Nils
  12. Hi Guglielmo, that's nice - i read about this months ago and couldn't find it anymore... now i have back the link It sounds like you have already bought one of these? Have you already made some explorations with it? It's basically the expensive (but complete...) version of the thoughts that Nils recently had (@NBroenner). He already discovered the right mapping for these pins on the ATmega2560 - it should be PC7 = 30; PD7 = 38 Setting the pinMode to INPUT_PULLUP and detecting the LOW-state sounds pretty simple and should be possible without harm to other users... like me.... I'm inclined to give it a try... @NBroenner: I think, this behaviour should even be compatible with your idea - because both sensors use the same pin with the same intention (your idea is a lot cheaper of course...). What do you think? Hi @tinkergnome, sorry have been away for some time, waiting for an enclosure to get available and to be able to print again :-). But it is still not available .... You guys already tested the filament outage with the tunnel sensor. What is the procedure if the sensor detects the outage ? The buildplate will stay heated and the noozle will cool down ? How it the recovery procedure ? Have you already tested it with a cut filament ? Do you see the recovery position in the finished print ? Thanks and regards, Nils
  13. Hallo Will, I have never printed PLA since I got my top cover / door. You have to try it. If the heat is too much, you can just put off the top cover and the door. Both parts are not permanently mounted to the UM2. Regards, Nils
  14. Hi Wisar, I use this top cover with the door and the ABS printing works fine. Regards, Nils
  15. Hallo zusammen, ich war jetzt mehrere Tage nicht in dem Raum, in dem der Ultimaker 2 steht. In der Zwischenzeit wurde mehrere Male gelüftet. Auch der letzte ABS Druck ist schon ne Weile her. Aber wenn man in den Raum kommt, dann ist es fast so, als hätte man gerade erst ABS gedruckt. Der Plastikgeruch ist sehr präsent. Kennt Einer von Euch das Problem ? Wenn ja, was macht Ihr dagegen ? Gruß, Nils
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