NBroenner

Hallo @laserb, 1 + 2 has been done as out of filament sensor: http://tunell.us/. This sensor can be monitored by the printer with the firmware from @tinkergnome. See https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin. Option 3 would only make sense in a closed cabin, like http://3dprintclean.com/desktop-enclosure.htm - these already have a thermal shutdown .... Option 4 - 6 maybe done by Octoprint http://octoprint.org/ ? Regards, Nils

@bondtech: sorry hatte vergessen, dass die anderen Werte in der UltiLCD2_menu_material.h stehen. Aber genau das hatte ich mir gedacht. Vielleicht sollte das in der GUI konfigurierbar sein, um es anpassen zu können, wie schon die E-steps. Danke und Gruß, Nils

Hallo zusammen, ich habe auch einen Bondtech QR an einem UM2. Aktuell befindet sich der Drucker noch im Umbau. Danach werde ich auch ein angepasste Firmware auf Basis der Version von @tinkergnome aufspielen. @bondtech Was genau hast Du in der Firmware von @tinkergnome denn angepasst ? Nur die Werte in der Configuration.h ? Gruß, Nils

Hallo Harry, sicher: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,282} Das sind X, Y, Z und Extruder. Die Erkenntnis kommt ursprünglich von @tinkergnome. Sag mal warum hast du nicht die angegebenen 490 eingestellt ? Gruß, Nils

Hallo Harry, das geht nämlich auch in der Configuration.h der Firmware :-). Habe mir jetzt auch einen bestellt - danke nochmal bzgl. deiner Tests. Verwendest du einen standard 25W Heizelement oder die 35 W Variante von 3dsolex ? Ich habe mir die letztere bestellt ... mal sehen was der UM2 dann so alles vollbringt an Geschwindigkeit und Heizkraft :-) Nutzt du bei Symplify3d eigentlich das Standard Profile für den UM2 ? Ich hatte damals beim Support von Symplify3d nachgefragt und habe eine Version erhalten, die per M-Befehl die Stromstärke auf 1400 mA hochsetzt. M907 E1400; increase extruder stepper current to 1400ma Das sollte man wahrscheinlich hier nicht mehr machen, oder ? Gruß, Nils

Hallo Harry, hast du die e-steps in der Firmware oder über das Menü angepasst ? Gruß, Nils

Hallo Harry, mich interessiert der Extruder auch. Bitte berichte, sobald Du ihn hast. Gruß, Nils

Hallo @frederiekpascal, I already own this combination, but as you stated it is still open. My current plan would be to close the chamber on the back and to put the feeder stepper on the outside. Maybe I will also flip X/Y Steppers to the outside, but this is a firmware question.... The rest will be sealed with silicon (joints / gaps) and / or foil. Then I will attach a scrubber to it and that should do the job .... I hope Thanks and regards, Nils

Thanks guys, the primary reason for this enclosure is the scrubber. Maybe I will seal off the printing chamber of my UM2 by myself and add such a scrubber. This would leave the electronic board without excessive heat, but will be very difficult in order to get this "cheese" air-tight .... Thanks and regards, Nils

Hallo everybody, I am planning to use a Desktop 600 Enclosure of 3dprintclean Link with my Ultimaker 2. This enclosure is completely closed and has a pre-heater as optional add-on. My questions are regarding the operation: The pre-heater can heat up the whole chamber. Does this limit the operation time of components? What would be a maximum recommended chamber temperature in order to prolong the lifetime of stepper / electronics etc. but at the same time produce an optimal ABS printout. Did the research and development team experiment with closed chambers (I assume they did)? If yes, what were the results? What are the (dis)advantages? Does anyone already own this combination? What are your experiences with the enclosure? What kind of filaments did you already print? Thanks and regards, Nils

Hi Guglielmo, thank you very much. I am thinking on getting one of these tunnel sensors, too. Regards, Nils

Hi Guglielmo, that's nice - i read about this months ago and couldn't find it anymore... now i have back the link It sounds like you have already bought one of these? Have you already made some explorations with it? It's basically the expensive (but complete...) version of the thoughts that Nils recently had (@NBroenner). He already discovered the right mapping for these pins on the ATmega2560 - it should be PC7 = 30; PD7 = 38 Setting the pinMode to INPUT_PULLUP and detecting the LOW-state sounds pretty simple and should be possible without harm to other users... like me.... I'm inclined to give it a try... @NBroenner: I think, this behaviour should even be compatible with your idea - because both sensors use the same pin with the same intention (your idea is a lot cheaper of course...). What do you think? Hi @tinkergnome, sorry have been away for some time, waiting for an enclosure to get available and to be able to print again :-). But it is still not available .... You guys already tested the filament outage with the tunnel sensor. What is the procedure if the sensor detects the outage ? The buildplate will stay heated and the noozle will cool down ? How it the recovery procedure ? Have you already tested it with a cut filament ? Do you see the recovery position in the finished print ? Thanks and regards, Nils

Hallo Will, I have never printed PLA since I got my top cover / door. You have to try it. If the heat is too much, you can just put off the top cover and the door. Both parts are not permanently mounted to the UM2. Regards, Nils

Hi Wisar, I use this top cover with the door and the ABS printing works fine. Regards, Nils

Hallo zusammen, ich war jetzt mehrere Tage nicht in dem Raum, in dem der Ultimaker 2 steht. In der Zwischenzeit wurde mehrere Male gelüftet. Auch der letzte ABS Druck ist schon ne Weile her. Aber wenn man in den Raum kommt, dann ist es fast so, als hätte man gerade erst ABS gedruckt. Der Plastikgeruch ist sehr präsent. Kennt Einer von Euch das Problem ? Wenn ja, was macht Ihr dagegen ? Gruß, Nils

Hallo, does nobody have any idea how to improve the out of filament handling ? Regards, Nils

Hallo Lutz, hast du mal mit den Standardeinstellungen gedruckt ? Also in Cura auf in den "Einfach-Modus" wechseln und auf mittlere Stufe stellen. Gehen die Drucke dann ? Das mit der Zeitangabe hatte ich auch schon mal. Die schwankt manchmal. Wenn Du willst kannst Du mir dir STL-Dateien auch mal via Mail zukommen lassen. Ich könnte diese dann mal bei mir ausprobieren, ob ich ähnliche Probleme habe oder nicht. Würde dass dann mal mit meiner aktuellen Rolle (ABS) und Düse (0,6 mm) probieren. Gruß, Nils

@tinkergnome: I guess I have to change the 282, right ? #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,282}

Where can I find this setting ? In the Configuration.h ? What is it called ?

@SandervG: Has this feature already been priorized ? What is the current status ? Thanks and regards, Nils

Hallo Lutz, hast du mal die Wandstärke erhöht oder mal mit mehr Infill gedruckt ? Gruß, Nils

Hi, I am starting to develop some changes to the UM2 firmware and I want to know how to recover it in case of something went wrong. Is the boot loader always starting the MEGA256, so that you can upload a stock version with Cura via USB or could there be situations to use the ICSP header. I own an AVRISP MK II. How would be the procedure if ICSP programming is needed ? I am working on Win 7. Thanks and regards, Nils

Hallo, I would like to discuss some ways to detect "out-of-filament" situations. This thread should be about the hardware and afterwards about the needed fixes to the firmware. The hardware addons could be done on nearly all ultimakers, but I would like to address the UM2 primarly, since I only own a UM2 and no UMO or similar (If these addons appeal to anyone with an UMO and he/she is willing to do the changes to the firmware, feel free to use it ). Therefore I would suggest the @tinkergnome firmware (https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin) as a good starting point. This thread continues the discussions of this thread http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/7436-more-information-during-print . So here are my first thoughts: The easiest solution would be a sensor like the reprap opto endstop electronic (http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Gen7_Endstop_1.3.1+) in combination with a housing like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:744006. The opto endstop is even easier to address than the sensor used with this housing, since it only knows two states on / off. Another issue could be clogs. These could be addressed by an rotary encoder (http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/RotaryEncoders). This could be incorporated in the firmware parft of the stepper motors to control their progress. If they do not report changes but the stepper motors have been commanded to move this could indicate a clog. Another more complex solution could be to have two rolls of filament ready. If the first runs out, then the printer switches over to the next roll. There are different approaches for these: e.g. the cyclops from e3d (http://e3d-online.com/Cyclops), but this one requires a lot of adaption and is only for 1,75 mm filament at the moment. I would suggest another approach: install a second feeder for the reload. In the bowden a joint (similar to this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:330757) has to be installed. And the opto endstop sensor can be used to detect the filament outage. If the sensor detects the outage of filament, the printer pauses and switches every signal from extruder 1 to extruder 2. There should be a starting procedure in order to avoid blobs of plastic after the switch. What do you think ? What else solutions would you recommend ? Thanks, Nils

@tinkergnome: maybe we could use the reprap opto endstop electronic (http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Gen7_Endstop_1.3.1+) as sensor. What would be the best / easiest way to help you with the recovery firmware and to include this or a similar sensor ? I have downloaded the firmware (github via git) and compiled the source incl. the simulator. It is working so far. By the way what ide are you using fot developing. For minor projects arduino ide is sufficent, but for the firmware I think it is a bit too unstructured. Is Code::Block with arduino extension a good choice or Eclipse C++ with Arduino ?

Wie unterscheidet sich denn der Eigenbau von dem E3D Cyclops. Der sollte doch ähnlich aufgebaut sein, oder ?