seipia

Merci François1, je regarde cela,

Merci pour ton intervention François. Effectivement, c'est pas faux! mais as-tu déjà utiliser toute la surface ? perso jamais et je ne suis pas certains que ce serait sans problème, en particulier l’accrochage au plateau en ABS, ce que j'utilise préférentiellement pour de raisons de tenue mécanique.(évidement plateau chauffant et accrochage...) Le plastique a un retrait en refroidissant et avec les grandes pièces, je constate souvent une déformation des zones supérieures par rapport à la base qui reste accrochée sur le plateau et ne peu donc prendre aucun retrait) mais ce n'est pas le propos du topic. j'ai imprimé dernièrement une cinquantaine de petites pièces et comme le fait remarquer Darkdvd, en cas de problème, on perd tout avec la version "en même temps" (vécu : coupure de courant pendant l'orage). faire 2 ou 3 groupes(l'un après l'autre) de 4/5 pièces (en même temps) serait plus sécurisant dans ce cas. Bonne soirée,

Merci, j'ai modifié les valeurs pour cette impression très peu épaisse, il faut juste faire attention de remettre les paramètres ensuite pour éviter les collisions... En fait, un des problèmes lorsque l'on imprime tous les objets en même temps, c'est le temps entre deux couches qui peut devenir assez long et perturber l'accrochage. Ce qui serait bien utile, c'est de pouvoir définir des groupes d'objets à imprimer "en même temps" chaque groupe en "un à la foi" pour pouvoir optimiser le temps entre couche et l'encombrement. Bien cordialement

Bonjour Darkdvd, Merci pour tes interventions. Ce topic est assez ancien mais avant d'en créer un nouveau, je me permet de poser un question sur le même sujet. J'ai a imprimer de nombreuses petite pieces et l'impression "un la foi" me semble plus adaptée. J'ai une UM2 et la zone grisée est totalement disproportionné par rapport à l'encombrement réel et au risque de collision. environ 12cmsur l'axe X et 5cm sur la profondeur. La pièce ne fait que 3 mm de hauteur donc, il n'y a aucun risque de collision non seulement avec le portique qui est à 48 mm mais même avec le support de buse à 10mm. Comment est géré cette zone de collision? Merci

Hi I get the same problem, you can read a lot of topic about that, control the heater, the temp sensor... I suppose you have test all that. Hi First, I suppose you have contyroled the heater and the right position inside the head. for me, the problem was only the temp of the room! My UM2 is not in the house and winter is coming. when the temp is above 12°C, I get heater error and I have to reduce the speed of the fan under 20%. The heater power is only 21 or 25W and when the air is too cold, it can't assume the correct heating. In The firmware, you have a test : if the temp is 10°C under the set point more than 30" is stop with "heater error" Regards

thanks! very interesting page for other defaults PHH

Hi, I use ABS and I've recently modify some parameters. Pieces are corrects but the top surface is always embossed like you can see on the picture. Vertical surfaces are perfect and geometry is OK. Thanks for your help. PHH

Perfect! I have modified configuration.h but the GCode M302 is more safety. It works perfectly! Thanks to all I can go ahead on my project...

Hi All, Thanks for all, Go ahead. But I need some help again ;-) OK for temp sensor, it's work and with Tinker Firmware (it's great!) it's easy to control that. As I have not yet the second extruder installed, I 'v simulate the second PT100 sensor by plugging a 150 ohms resistance on TEMP2 and it's OK on the screen. Of course to allow proper operation, I modified the set point of Extruder2 at 130°C. My second step motor is plug on connector E2, and I had test it before on E1 ( print something and it moves) I created à GCode based on a CAO of two very simple pieces (one above the other) with CURA. When I read GCode, I can see the codes T0 and T1 at the right place. The first piece is well print....Youppi !!! BUT The head move at the offset position for the second print. Head move to print but step-mottor2 remains stationary. I precise that it is powered, it is not possible to move it manually. I also added the G10P1....instruction just to see, without any result. What I have forgotten again ?

Thanks Tinker for your help. OK! after a look at the board, it's clear : screw connector J21 with Heater Bed, Heater1 and Heater2. I use TinkerGnome-MarlinUM2 for my machine and it's work perfectly. Do you know what modification I can do in order to use it with two heads ? and have you the project to do it (it would be great!) first, I have compiled sources of MarlinUltimaker2-master and it's OK. After I try some modifications like : #ifndef EXTRUDERS #define EXTRUDERS 2 #endif in different files, compiles again and get ERROR TEMP due to there is no sensor on the connector TEMP2 I try to modify : #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 in order to disabled sensor_2 but apparently, it's not the right way...I'm not sure sensor_2 is the sensor of the second head ! I'm not a specialist in firmware, as you can see! but my project is : use à second extruder for ceramic paste. I have mechanical solution and provide the steep motor but I am stopped by the soft...my second motor is well plug on the board but don't move... Thanks again, Bill

Hi Ultiarjan, Sorry to come back to page 27 of this forum but each of us advance at its own speed! I've got some problem with heater. On the UM2 card, I can see 3 connectors: Temp3 with heater of head 1 Temp2 : free Temps1 with PT100 of head1 How do you control the second head? After modification and compilation, I read the "ERROR-STOPPED, Temp sensor" on the UM2 screen. It's probably because there is no sensor on TEMP2. But ther is no plug for the second heater. I understand you connect the second heater by an external power supply. How do you control it? and make connection with UM2. Thank's PH

Thanks for your answers. I must be very stupid but when I do it "a different multi extrusion approach" in the search windows, the result is not what you say...but no problem cause you give me the link : http://ultimaker.com/...ol-printhead-changer Wonderful, It's probably the best way to have different heads without increase the weight. For the documentation of UM2 I agree, I knew the site github.com and it' s a very complete documentation and I have already use it to modify some pieces. but only for mechanic. In fact, I'm a beginner on this machine and I have a lot of question very simple for you : How to drive the second feeder? (I already bought the motor steep) The electronic card has two outputs and connectors. Are they active ? where can I get the electronic documentation ? What gcode must be use ? in fact, where can I get the gcode documentation of the UM2 ? Is there a second output for the regulation of temperature or have you do it outside of the UM2? I promise I will read the whole topic, no doubt that some answers are already done Again thank to reply to a novice. If you're interested, my goal is making a head of extrusion for ceramic (it's my job 20 years ago for technical development and innovations) I saw some achievements and projects but nothing fine for now and I think the UM2 is a good starting point. Don't worry but the forum is not on top....for a new user ;-)

I have also several projects to modify and inprove my UM2 starting on the basis of the standard machine. I have the same problem to get technical datas and I have nothing to do with the CE mark. The post "a different multi extrusion approach" that I have seen is very interesting, unfortunately, I did not manage to find it in this forum. All skills are present here but it is very difficult to synthesize. more than this forum, we would require a knowledge base and Ultimaker does not help us to develop its machine.

Bonjour, Je jette l'éponge ! Je ne parviens pas à me repérer dans ce forum et ma première question est : Y a t-il un forum bien organisé sur l' ULTIMAKER ? C'est sans doute de ma responsabilité car je ne suis pas habitué à la critique systématique mais : Je ne parviens jamais à retrouver mes propres TOPIC, lors de la connexion , ce serait tout de même bien pratique de pouvoir le faire sans recherche. Les sujets ne peuvent pas être classé par date! on retrouve à la suite des TOPIC d'un an comme celui de la veille! La classification manque cruellement de clarté Bref, je suis totalement perdu.