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puremoco

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puremoco last won the day on August 2 2015

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  1. Hello, I started a print like usually and then notice some bad smell and smoke from the heat bed connector: I guess there was a short circuit between the heating wires. They are melted together and also melted the connector on the heat bed. How can this happen? The printer has around 3.000 printing hours, but such critical component should not get damaged over time. Luckily I have noticed it and stopped the printer, otherwise there might be fire starting... Why are there no wire-end sleeve used? Why is the PCB/firmware not detecting such short between those wires and stopping the pri
  2. @ultiarjan: At first I want to implement the changes and print it agian. Once it is done and working, I will publish it. Mirroring the feeder should be no problem because of the direction. As I installed the Trinamic-Stepper, I damaged the original Stepper as I wanted to remove the knurled wheel. It was really tight, even after removing the screw. So you might want to order a knurled wheel in advance I case it is stuck on the motor shaft. So I just cut the stepper wires with the connector and attached the same color to each other, since the colors and phases are the same. But somehow it was
  3. I don't make a lot use of bridging, but I have noted, that retractions are a lot cleaner then before. I did some "real" prints. The biggest difference until now is the the printing speed. With a 0.6mm nozzle I am not afraid of printing >100 mm/s, which was impossible with the standard feeder, because the "ticks"(retractions) were starting a 40-50 mm/s... And the layers are looking more even/consistent, then before. Until now, I did not had any extrusion or clogged nozzle problems like I had before regularly. I wonder why you did not put an geared feeder from the beginning in the UM2.
  4. Finally I had some time to install the new feeder on my UM2: Here is a quick print test before and after the upgrade: - 40 mm/s - 0.4 nozzle - 220°C - Colorfabb PLA/PHA As you can see, the printer is extruding more filament, which is resulting in a more smooth surface. The print settings were exactly the same. With the old feeder, there were a lot of retractions (=ticks) of the feeder, which is an indicator for printing too fast. With the new feeder, the extrusion is evenly without any ticks. Some it is now possible to print faster. I also expect a better surface becau
  5. @ataraxis: Is it possible for you to share the Arduino-code from your videos? I have tried the watterott-examples on github, but the driver won't turn the stepper on... If I solder the SPI-jumper, it works. But I want to test the features, which are only possible over SPI
  6. Now I have also finished the fedder from IRobertI: As soon as I have finished my "to-do-print-list", I will change the feeder and run some tests.
  7. Finially had some time to print my version of a pulley reduction feeder: Still need to print the parts for the feeder, since I don't want to use the original.
  8. @neotko: For my camera rig, I also use steppers. I also have encountered, that microstepping is not suitable for precise movements. I posted a topic in the pololu-forum: http://tinyurl.com/gm5eju3 At the bottom, you can see some tests, which I have performed at full stepping and 1/8. As you can see 1/8 is very irregular with a standard stepper. You can also see, that the Trinamic stepper is performing much better at 1/8 than a cheap "chinese" stepper. http://www.trinamic.com/products/motors/motors-stepper/qmot-qsh4218 The stepper drivers are also responsible for accurate microstepping. T
  9. Since I have some issues with the "clicking" of the feeder and many aborted print, I have decided to upgrade the feeder. A reduction with a pulley seems to me more suitable than with gears. I have disovered meduzas feeder, but I am missing an easy solution to adjust the belt tension. Furthermore, it would be somehow difficult to order the exact belts and pullys here in Germany. This is my first test, so maybe there will be a second version later. The stepper will be replaced by a Trinamic NEMA17 (200 steps), which is optimized for microstepping. I must have a look where to place the whole
  10. I also use Colorfabb PLA/PHA a lot and wonder why you have warping issues. I always use Kapton tape and only replace it when there a some damages. My prints stick very well to the Kapton, sometimes I have to use a lot of force if it is a larger object. You might check your bed leveling and decrease the distance between nozzle and bed. Also make sure, you print the first layer at slow speed. Nozzle temp: 230-240°C Bed temp: 50°C There might be also a difference between each color. I only use standard black and white and there is definitely a difference in printing behaviour...
  11. Hello, I have a UM2 with Olssen Block and 0.4 nozzle. Today I wanted to print a housing, which I already made a couple of times. But at this time, the quality of the surface is very very poor: I use Simplify3D and Colorfabb PLA/PHA. I did not make huge changes in the settings im comparison to the previous prints. No I wonder why the one looks this bad... My first guess would be the filament "age". It was a 2.2 kg spool which I use since December 2015. So I might got wet due to the humidity in my room. But I do not hear any zips during printing.... I have already ordered a ne
  12. Yes, you are totally right about the stability of heavier systems. This system is meant to be taken on worldwide journeys, so you have to take it in your normal luggage. Most airlines have a restriction of 20-23kg. So if you are travelling as photographer you have the coise of not taking a motion system with you or taking one which just a little bit weaker than a heavy system Thanks for your reply. I would think low weight could also be a disadvantage.. doesn't weight equal imbalance or instability? How do you use/design it, that this is not the case?
  13. How many hours of printing does your print have? After ~500h my teflon insulator was deformed and caused heavy underextrusion. Changing to the Olssen block (whole hot-end) solved the problem and now I can print fast again
  14. I have bought my UM2 for building camera motion control systems for timelapse photography. Without a 3D-printer those products would not be possible to manufacture. An other benefit from 3D-printing is the low weight of plastic, which is a huge factor for products which are used outdoors. A conventional design would be much heavier and from the design not so appealing. Since I produce those products in small series, the prints are manufactured for the use in the endproduct and the printer gives me the flexibility to test different designs and prototypes in a very cheap and fast way. Furthe
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