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FLG last won the day on June 1 2015

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  1. No worries Matt. That's what the forums are for. Looks like the Numpty team is growing LOL
  2. Bram, sorry for the long wait I have not been on the forum for a while and I don't get notifications for some reason! I have used Cura with some success but S3D is a much bedder slicer. Yes you have to pay a bit for it, but it has made printing much easier than it was with Cura and the results are much much better. You should be able to build with Cura don't get me wrong, but you will get more reliable results I thing with S3D. Nigel
  3. And a Merry Christmas to you too. The P-38 has many parts doesn't it !! I like Austria without snow, but then I am bias as when I visit it's on 2 wheels and usually summer. I can't believe you have no snow now. I have seen some people flying float planes off snow so why not. Unfortunately it's a big round trip for me to find somewhere to fly off water . . . . or snow for that matter. Time to go and see what's under the tree . . . .
  4. Hi Philipp, yes and it files very well indeed. I printed one before this one which suffered some warping during printing. I still flew it and did some destruction testing to see how much I could knock it about. Tougher than they look you know Over Christmas I am going to have a go at the Zivko EDGE Hannes Arch replica, and maybee the P-47 or the 109G. Going for the higher powered unit this time now I know they fly well. Good luck with the P-38. Looks a fun print! Regards Nigel
  5. Juss I am using S3D with much improved results while printing the Spitfire. The mustang will be just the same I am sure we can compare notes. I use Innofil PLA for my prints which come out fantastic. I found the trick was to alter the following. Nozzle diameter 0.48 Extrusion multiplier 0 Layer height 0.25 Material 218°C First layer height 80% First layer Width 100% First layer speed 35% Default Print speed 65mm/s Outline underspeed 70% X/Y movement speed 200mm/s Include a skirt to your liking and set the bed to 60°C for the whole print. When I was ready to print I took th
  6. Just give him the $100 as cut your losses. Even to lift a 20LBS weight the aircraft will have to be so big you don't want to be looking at 3D printers. Look at traditional materials. Also I have just finished a model of a Fokker D.VII. its 1/3 scale weight about 50LBS and cost me a good $9,000 to build. It would not handle a 10LBS payload. I don't know where you are in the world but there are also regulations on aircraft over about 20Kg, so you had better join a club to make sure you comply with your local air authorities. Builds have to be supervised at various stages just like full si
  7. Well I am getting on pretty OK with the new version now. Perhaps its the never-ending list of settings that are available now and making sure the ones I need are on the main view. Working well I have to say
  8. Just to add to this thread. I have the new style Material.txt file in in use and it imports fine. I I turn off my Ultimaker 2 it now forgets the imported settings and I have to import them myself! That was not the case before I upgrades to the +. May be relevant . . . . I do not know??
  9. Well GR5 you don't know how close you are. Last night I decided to have another look a the whole setup and begin from the very beginning! For the electronics to play up a new electrical component has to be faulty, or the wiring is still wrong. It could not be anything else unless I have damaged something! Off came the cover and I examined the installation for a third time. Within seconds I could see that I had connected the blue-orange wire of the hot end fan connector to the middle of the board, but to the wrong connector! That is hard for me to admit making a numpty mistake like thi
  10. Thanks for your reply. The switch trips the circuit straight away swapping them around as you suggest. As soon as I press the microswitch it tricked the head into resetting where it was so I am confident the Z switch itself is working fine. Putting the switches in their correct positions in the circuit board . . . . When I turn on the machine and send the build plate down to make the home position it will do this just fine unless I start with the plate towards the top of it's travel. When it starts from higher positions it stops short of tripping the Z switch with the error. It's as tho
  11. Hi there all. Interesting one this. I upgraded my Ultimaker 2 to the 2+ with the upgrade kit. All appeared to go well. I then turned it on and installed the latest firmware from Cura. It's now _2.1 As with all firmware updates I was thrown into a levelling routine. When the build plate started to rise it fell well short of the normal position it runs to. I would say less than half way. So I spent some time winding the wheel to get the plate into the calibration area, but it calibrated just fine. When the the plate began to descend but fell short of the bottom. The bolt that engage
  12. OK thanks for the comments. I will load up the new version and start wrapping my head around it. I will run them both for a while just in case something gives. Looks like fun!
  13. I have been away from the printer for some time and just getting back into having some fun. Yesterday I converted my UM2 to the + version which went well. Firmware updated from Cura 15.04.6 after installation. I now notice there are 2 versions of Cura running alongside each other and don't seem to be able to find anything discussing the pros and cons for each version. I am running windows 7 64bit. so I am guessing the 2.1.2 version is possibly where I should go but unsure. I have seen the amendments to the material.txt file needed for the different nozzles but other than that I am scratch
  14. Philipp, may I apologise for not replying to your comments. I have had to look after poorly parents since I posted my comment and I have not had much time to play as of yet. I have seen somewhere else that increasing the nozzle slightly over that which is installed can have beneficial results. I have printed a few parts and they are a few grammes underweight compared to those on the video collection. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will be able to get all the parts printed and build something. I have a plan to print everything again because I realised that printing parts together leave
  15. Hey WTFockewulf I fly model airplanes and found your thread while searching Google for people who have printed the 3dLabPrint Spitfire. I am going to use the smaller motor option on the first model using ColorFabb BLUE GREY PLA. I already have the recommended battery and Speed controller so initial cost is lower. Just interested to know if you had any tips when setting up the printer. Did you use the supplied profiles for Cura, or did you modify them. Using the UM2. Nigel I have used XT on a few other prints and I find increasing the material flow to 110% makes for a very strong single
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