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Everything posted by FLG

  1. No worries Matt. That's what the forums are for. Looks like the Numpty team is growing LOL
  2. Bram, sorry for the long wait I have not been on the forum for a while and I don't get notifications for some reason! I have used Cura with some success but S3D is a much bedder slicer. Yes you have to pay a bit for it, but it has made printing much easier than it was with Cura and the results are much much better. You should be able to build with Cura don't get me wrong, but you will get more reliable results I thing with S3D. Nigel
  3. And a Merry Christmas to you too. The P-38 has many parts doesn't it !! I like Austria without snow, but then I am bias as when I visit it's on 2 wheels and usually summer. I can't believe you have no snow now. I have seen some people flying float planes off snow so why not. Unfortunately it's a big round trip for me to find somewhere to fly off water . . . . or snow for that matter. Time to go and see what's under the tree . . . .
  4. Hi Philipp, yes and it files very well indeed. I printed one before this one which suffered some warping during printing. I still flew it and did some destruction testing to see how much I could knock it about. Tougher than they look you know Over Christmas I am going to have a go at the Zivko EDGE Hannes Arch replica, and maybee the P-47 or the 109G. Going for the higher powered unit this time now I know they fly well. Good luck with the P-38. Looks a fun print! Regards Nigel
  5. Juss I am using S3D with much improved results while printing the Spitfire. The mustang will be just the same I am sure we can compare notes. I use Innofil PLA for my prints which come out fantastic. I found the trick was to alter the following. Nozzle diameter 0.48 Extrusion multiplier 0 Layer height 0.25 Material 218°C First layer height 80% First layer Width 100% First layer speed 35% Default Print speed 65mm/s Outline underspeed 70% X/Y movement speed 200mm/s Include a skirt to your liking and set the bed to 60°C for the whole print. When I was ready to print I took the bed up to 75°C then went straight to printing. It usually starts printing when the bed cools to 70°C I coated the glass with thinned PVA which prevents warping when printing the wings. Absolutely the only solution I found that worked. I also printed the larger parts on their own which helps. Cover the front of the printer to prevent drafts. I also partly covered over the printer to hold in some heat. If you over do the cover the filament starts to grind. It is also important to double up on the lower layers as per the instructional videos I found. Come back with some pictures when you have had a go with these alterations.
  6. Just give him the $100 as cut your losses. Even to lift a 20LBS weight the aircraft will have to be so big you don't want to be looking at 3D printers. Look at traditional materials. Also I have just finished a model of a Fokker D.VII. its 1/3 scale weight about 50LBS and cost me a good $9,000 to build. It would not handle a 10LBS payload. I don't know where you are in the world but there are also regulations on aircraft over about 20Kg, so you had better join a club to make sure you comply with your local air authorities. Builds have to be supervised at various stages just like full size aircraft. Introducing 3D printing as a structural component would not be a good idea. I have only used it for scale detail and nothing structural! As I said at the top. Give the man your $100 and walk away. No better still . . . RUN!
  7. Well I am getting on pretty OK with the new version now. Perhaps its the never-ending list of settings that are available now and making sure the ones I need are on the main view. Working well I have to say
  8. Just to add to this thread. I have the new style Material.txt file in in use and it imports fine. I I turn off my Ultimaker 2 it now forgets the imported settings and I have to import them myself! That was not the case before I upgrades to the +. May be relevant . . . . I do not know??
  9. Well GR5 you don't know how close you are. Last night I decided to have another look a the whole setup and begin from the very beginning! For the electronics to play up a new electrical component has to be faulty, or the wiring is still wrong. It could not be anything else unless I have damaged something! Off came the cover and I examined the installation for a third time. Within seconds I could see that I had connected the blue-orange wire of the hot end fan connector to the middle of the board, but to the wrong connector! That is hard for me to admit making a numpty mistake like this! See the attached picture for the other connector I connected it to (looks familiar don't it) The connectors were returned to the correct White block terminal on the circuit board not quiet in the middle of the board but there you go. All seems to be working now so a few test prints before I go out for the day! Thank you to everyone who posted here and maybe if someone else has this issue it was not a wast of forum space! Nigel
  10. Thanks for your reply. The switch trips the circuit straight away swapping them around as you suggest. As soon as I press the microswitch it tricked the head into resetting where it was so I am confident the Z switch itself is working fine. Putting the switches in their correct positions in the circuit board . . . . When I turn on the machine and send the build plate down to make the home position it will do this just fine unless I start with the plate towards the top of it's travel. When it starts from higher positions it stops short of tripping the Z switch with the error. It's as though it thinks it should have tripped the switch and times out believing the switch to be faulty, dare I say it. [/media] If I turn it off and back on again and send it down it trips the switch and re-sets just fine. What I don't understand is when I send the plate up from the home position it makes it practically to the top. Sending it down it errors before the bolt gets to the switch. Repeated tests of the microswitch using a circuit tester at the connector demonstrate the switch is working fine. I will try installing some older firmware tonight and then install 2.1 again to see it that helps! Anyone any more ideas!!
  11. Hi there all. Interesting one this. I upgraded my Ultimaker 2 to the 2+ with the upgrade kit. All appeared to go well. I then turned it on and installed the latest firmware from Cura. It's now _2.1 As with all firmware updates I was thrown into a levelling routine. When the build plate started to rise it fell well short of the normal position it runs to. I would say less than half way. So I spent some time winding the wheel to get the plate into the calibration area, but it calibrated just fine. When the the plate began to descend but fell short of the bottom. The bolt that engages with the Z-switch did not enter the orifice by about 10mm or so. I then got the error on the screen:- "ERROR-STOPPED Z switch broken" and a link the Ultimaker web site for Error 5. I decided to do a few other things. I turned the printer off and on again. I went into Maintenance and manually raised the build platform. It went to within 20mm or so of the head and stopped. I then told it to lower the platform and it stopped short again with the same error. So I restarted and selected the lower platform option and it went to the bottom tripped on the Z switch and settled as normal. I thought that I may have errantly set the UM2 Go as the machine because it was not travelling far enough before, dare I say, giving up and coming up with the error. I loaded Cura 2.1.2 and checked. Yes I had selected the correct UM2+ I decided to check the firmware again in Cura and everything seemed fine. I removed the circuit board and tested the Z switch with a circuit tester and it switches just fine. I have done a factory re-start and it has not made any difference. Can anybody help on this one as I am now scratching my head again! Nigel
  12. OK thanks for the comments. I will load up the new version and start wrapping my head around it. I will run them both for a while just in case something gives. Looks like fun!
  13. I have been away from the printer for some time and just getting back into having some fun. Yesterday I converted my UM2 to the + version which went well. Firmware updated from Cura 15.04.6 after installation. I now notice there are 2 versions of Cura running alongside each other and don't seem to be able to find anything discussing the pros and cons for each version. I am running windows 7 64bit. so I am guessing the 2.1.2 version is possibly where I should go but unsure. I have seen the amendments to the material.txt file needed for the different nozzles but other than that I am scratching my head. What do you folks think of the new version ? Nigel
  14. Philipp, may I apologise for not replying to your comments. I have had to look after poorly parents since I posted my comment and I have not had much time to play as of yet. I have seen somewhere else that increasing the nozzle slightly over that which is installed can have beneficial results. I have printed a few parts and they are a few grammes underweight compared to those on the video collection. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will be able to get all the parts printed and build something. I have a plan to print everything again because I realised that printing parts together leaves dirty edges which can be avoided when printing single parts. I will give it a try and report back some time soon. Thank you again. Nigel
  15. Hey WTFockewulf I fly model airplanes and found your thread while searching Google for people who have printed the 3dLabPrint Spitfire. I am going to use the smaller motor option on the first model using ColorFabb BLUE GREY PLA. I already have the recommended battery and Speed controller so initial cost is lower. Just interested to know if you had any tips when setting up the printer. Did you use the supplied profiles for Cura, or did you modify them. Using the UM2. Nigel I have used XT on a few other prints and I find increasing the material flow to 110% makes for a very strong single skin which is very flexible. Anyway, hope your silver model is coming out well. I may do the Thunderbolt in silver if the Spitfire comes out OK.
  16. Another supplier for rubber tumblers: http://www.ukge.com/en-GB/5lb-Rubber-Barrel-for-Stones__p-1179.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjwqLWrBRC-_OaG-IfL0kASJAAbzKsV8ABGKDu0VItVIaJiRa41Mk4_IgYQv7yZ5RBWKKoZAhoCl4_w_wcB I will download the files shortly onkelgeorg, naturally I will vote Thank you for sharing.
  17. Only had the UM2 a few weeks but I am starting to get the hang of it now! This is a dummy engine for a 1/3 scale Fokker D.VII. The exhaust system is printed in Colorfabb XT black and produced in sections to make fitting to the engine easier. Joints were made with wood dowel and cyano glue followed by filler resin to fill the gaps. I have just started painting it now. It will have rough weld joints and hopefully look pretty rusty by the time I have vinished with it. The main engine has some 3D printed parts though not with the Ultimaker, they were produced with sintered Nylon by a print house.
  18. LOL running costs are the last things I worry about. I build, fly, and yes, crash scale model aeroplanes. 3D printing is a cheap "add on" compared to the cost of that just ask my wife . . . . on second thoughts best not Interesting comments and going along with my thoughts of introducing stresses that would be be unwelcome in the process. I do find parts lift off the bead easier once everything has cooled down. I use thinned PVA on the glass which has not let me down so far. So thermostat remains the same. Easy enough! Thanks for the quick replies
  19. Hi there all. I am on the steep end of the learning curve having had my printer just one week, but climbing fast! One thing that I can't see much instruction on is temperature management of the heated bed. . . . or more specifically turning it off or reducing the temperature during a print. At the moment I have been printing with the bed at the same temperature all the way through the prints. Using the UM Silver PLA that came with the printer only at the moment. Everything is working fine and I have printed several objects with good results. Over the weekend I will be moving to ColorFabb XT Black and Clear, adjusting settings naturally, but I read in the forum people are turning their heaters off or down after a certain height depending on the material they are using or the type of shape they are printing. I see how to do this with plugins, but what are the general guidelines for reducing or even turning the heater off?? I will be interested to hear peoples thoughts. I have a big test producing a large part in Black XT and I don't want to run the heater for several hours if it is not necessary!
  20. OK I will have a go with something like that. There are similar setups for the Mobius to do the same. I like the flowers coming out of the vase ! Nigel
  21. That's an nice finish you have achieved there. It will be interesting to see your rock tumbler Nigel
  22. I have had my Ultimaker for a few days now and want to have a go at making a time lapse video. I am planning on using a Mobius camera with a power supply attached. No problem setting up, but does anyone have any general tips for making videos?? Thanks in advance . . . Nigel
  23. Now I have the printer and it is up and running I can see the difference on the build platform between printing "one at a time" and printing "all together". I am printing the Cable Chain right now and have chosen the print "all together" option which has stacked them much closer together. The light is on and getting brighter LOL.
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