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MichaelB

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  1. Hallo zusammen, wie viele von euch habe ich gestern vom neuen nGen-Filament von colorfabb erfahren/gelesen. Ich werde mir mal etwas davon bestellen und schaun, was dabei heraus kommt. Interessant finde ich, dass colorfabb selbst in seinen natürlich langen Lobeshymnen über nGen überhaupt nichts darüber sagt, wie das Filament positioniert ist im Vergleich zu XT. Es basiert ja anscheinend auf einem anderen/neueren Eastman Polymer, welches eine höhere Glastemperatur bietet und gleichzeitig niedrigere Drucktemperaturen zulässt. Bei Dehnbarkeit und Festigkeit scheinen die Unterschiede zu XT gerin
  2. Es ist schon komisch. Da experimentiert man monatelang herum und scheitert doch plötzlich wieder an der dämlichen Temperatur... Ja, es hat geholfen, die Temperatur anzuheben. Danke für den Tipp! (ich hätte da selbst drauf kommen müssen...)
  3. Dann scheint es ja am Material selbst zu liegen, dass das Rausziehen nicht klappt. Wenn ich genügend aufheize, ist die Düse frei. Vielleicht muss ich wirklich nur heißer drucken. Oder: Vielleicht hat der Temperatursensor doch was abbekommen und driftet in den Werten weg? Dann würden zwar 240° angezeigt, aber es liegen vielleicht nur 220 an?
  4. Hallo Gemeinde, ich habe gerade schwerwiegende Probleme beim Druck. Es hat den Anschein, als würde während dem Druck die Düse verstopfen. Das ganze passiert mittlerweile schon nach wenigen Minuten, der Drucker ist nicht mehr zu gebrauchen... Aber mal von Anfang an: Ultimaker 2 Extended, gekauft im Mai 2015 Damals mit dem mitgelieferten, silbernen PLA gedruckt und bis auf kleinere Schwierigkeiten, die teils selbst verschuldet waren (zu schnell gedruckt), alles ok gewesen. Dann eine Weile nichts gemacht. Nun habe ich letzte Woche auf den Olsson Block umgerüstet. Hauptsächlich, weil ich einz
  5. I printed a huge part with a bended bottom and testest different options for automatic generadet support in CURA. Unfortunately none of the options worked for me. Took to much time, was much to strong and hardy removable... So I decided to construct the support in the CAD model. CURA now recognises walls and each support line is printed with a double line. I tried to adjust nozzle and wall sizes, but nothing helps. To save more time (and material) it would be great, if there was a chance to make CURA print the support lines as thin as it prints it's own generated support. Is there a way t
  6. Forgot another fact: The previous test was printed at 230°C. After that I printed another extrusion test at 210°C. Here we go: Everything fine until including 6mm3/s. (with "tocking" now and then) At higher rates the noise got harder and the result shows typical under extrusion. So, panic or not. Something must be wrong here :(
  7. Well, could be that I am making some kind of "over-panic". Feel free to stop me from getting mad.. Atomic cleaning: done - as predicted without any visible problems/dirt: nozzle clean Extrusion test: done - not as bad as suspected: Including 8 everything fine. BUT. "tocking" startet now and then at 7mm3/s: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xiugtssauo2bwtf/7mm3s.m4v?dl=0 But there are no visible problems in the printout, including even 8mm3/s with a little more tocking as in the video, see photos above. "tocking" more or less permanent at 9mm3/s: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9vfc5roguu979mm/
  8. My UM2 extended has printed about 20 hours yet. After problems with strange noise (see other thread) and some adjustments in my settings the results are not to bad at all. But... Material: supplied PLA (silver) from UM, printed with factory set 210°C, heated bed at factory 60°C. Printer is completely stock. From the very first start of the printer the feeder turns a few degrees "back" sometimes. This happens not always, but there is barely a minute without this "tock" noise from the rear side... The "visual ultimaker troubleshooting guide" talks about a quarter turn back when a skip back h
  9. My UM2 extended has printed about 20 hours yet. After problems with strange noise (see other thread) and some adjustments in my settings the results are not to bad at all. But... Material: supplied PLA (silver) from UM, printed with factory set 210°C, heated bed at factory 60°C. Printer is completely stock. From the very first start of the printer the feeder turns a few degrees "back" sometimes. This happens not always, but there is barely a minute without this "tock" noise from the rear side... The "visual ultimaker troubleshooting guide" talks about a quarter turn back when a skip back h
  10. Well, gr5 No.1, even without watching the video it seems that you could be right. There was no moving of any rod determinable during printing. But the screw of top left pulley was not really tight, I could loosen it easily. After that I could push the rod a bit to the outside of the printer. I tightened it again with the describe amount of force Hand moving does not make any more noise now. Printing follows later this evening...
  11. Thank you gr5 No.2 I did so for endless minutes now, but I absolutely can not figure out, where it is coming from. I am kind of helpless at the moment. And to be honest: I am not very motivated to do some trial and error disassembling on such an expensive machine, which is just a few days old. If someone asks for me, I am pushing the print head back and forth the next hours...
  12. Here is a video with the described noise: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0fe200zaykfpygs/IMG_2778.MOV?dl=0
  13. Last week I received my Ultimaker 2 extended. I am new in 3D printing and in the past few days I played around with my new toy. I have some issues with under extrusion, skip back noises from the feeder since the first run of the printer (the Ultimaker robot, what else). I use silver PLA, which came with the printer and did not change any values before printing. This night after aprox. 3 hours of total printing for the machine a strange noise appeared. It comes out of the direction of the left stepper motor. With every rotation of the motor you can hear a "clack" sound. Not scary, but loud en
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