MichaelB

Hallo zusammen, wie viele von euch habe ich gestern vom neuen nGen-Filament von colorfabb erfahren/gelesen. Ich werde mir mal etwas davon bestellen und schaun, was dabei heraus kommt. Interessant finde ich, dass colorfabb selbst in seinen natürlich langen Lobeshymnen über nGen überhaupt nichts darüber sagt, wie das Filament positioniert ist im Vergleich zu XT. Es basiert ja anscheinend auf einem anderen/neueren Eastman Polymer, welches eine höhere Glastemperatur bietet und gleichzeitig niedrigere Drucktemperaturen zulässt. Bei Dehnbarkeit und Festigkeit scheinen die Unterschiede zu XT gering zu sein. Vom reinen Empfinden her würde ich daher davon ausgehen, dass nGen technische Vorzüge bei gleichzeitig einfacherer Verarbeitung bietet und damit XT eigentlich überflüssig macht. Klar kann colorfabb das so nicht sagen, die Lager werden ja voll mit XT sein... Kann einer von den erfahreneren Filament-Spezialisten hierzu etwas beitragen?

Es ist schon komisch. Da experimentiert man monatelang herum und scheitert doch plötzlich wieder an der dämlichen Temperatur... Ja, es hat geholfen, die Temperatur anzuheben. Danke für den Tipp! (ich hätte da selbst drauf kommen müssen...)

Dann scheint es ja am Material selbst zu liegen, dass das Rausziehen nicht klappt. Wenn ich genügend aufheize, ist die Düse frei. Vielleicht muss ich wirklich nur heißer drucken. Oder: Vielleicht hat der Temperatursensor doch was abbekommen und driftet in den Werten weg? Dann würden zwar 240° angezeigt, aber es liegen vielleicht nur 220 an?

Hallo Gemeinde, ich habe gerade schwerwiegende Probleme beim Druck. Es hat den Anschein, als würde während dem Druck die Düse verstopfen. Das ganze passiert mittlerweile schon nach wenigen Minuten, der Drucker ist nicht mehr zu gebrauchen... Aber mal von Anfang an: Ultimaker 2 Extended, gekauft im Mai 2015 Damals mit dem mitgelieferten, silbernen PLA gedruckt und bis auf kleinere Schwierigkeiten, die teils selbst verschuldet waren (zu schnell gedruckt), alles ok gewesen. Dann eine Weile nichts gemacht. Nun habe ich letzte Woche auf den Olsson Block umgerüstet. Hauptsächlich, weil ich einzelne, groß Teile mit großer Düse drucken will. Habe das Teil direkt bei 3dsolex bestellt und wenn ich schon dabei war, den 35W Heater, den 3dsolex Teflon Coupler, den I2K Insulator und nen neuen Schlauch mitbestellt. Die Installation lief problemlos, wenn das mit dem Heater auch etwas nervig war. Der Temperatursensor wollte natürlich nicht ganz freiwillig aus der originalen Düse raus. Hier musste ich von der gegenüberliegenden Seite ein 1mm Loch bohren, dann konnte ich den Sensor rausdrücken. Keine Beschädigungen sichtbar. Vorher hatte ich schon auf Roberts Feeder und Low Friction Spurenhalter umgerüstet. Die ersten Drucke liefen ganz hervorragend, ist war wirklich begeistert. Dann bin ich auf colorfabb XT umgestiegen. Während der dann folgenden Testdrucke zum Finden der optimalen Einstellungen begannen die Probleme. Wobei das noch nicht schlimm war, ich konnte mit der 0.8er Düse XT clear mit 250° in 0,4mm Lauerdicke mit 40mm/s drucken. Meine Welt war in Ordnung... Doch DANN habe ich wieder die 0.4mm Düse eingebaut. Damit habe ich Labern's Fan Shroud in XT clear (0,1mm Layer, 40mm/s, 245°) gedruckt. Bis auf etwas Stringing und suboptimale Retraction Settings war das ok. Gestern wollte ich dann einfache 20x20x5mm Quader drucken, um die Einstellungen zu verbessern. Ich drucke jetzt mit 245°, 0,2mm Layer und 50mm/s. Das geht nicht mehr. Erst fing der Extruder an zu skippen gefolgt von logischerweise starker Unterextrusion. Plötzlich war es so, dass nach dem Druck die Düse zu war. D.h. ich konnte keinen Druck mehr starten. Und genau das passiert jetzt nach 30-90 Sekunden jedes mal. Ich verzweifle. Was mit aufgefallen ist: Ich kann mit XT clear keinen atomic pull machen. Das Material reißt grundsätzlich ab. Mit PLA geht es ihne Probleme. Mit weißem PLA habe ich auch die Düse gereinigt, da ist keinerlei Schmutz (Verkoppelung oder ähnlich) zu erkennen. Habe auch schon den gesamten Druckkopf zerlegt und geprüft. Es scheint alles Bestens zu sein. Hat einer von euch noch eine Idee? Ich bin kurz davor, das Ding abzustoßen...

I printed a huge part with a bended bottom and testest different options for automatic generadet support in CURA. Unfortunately none of the options worked for me. Took to much time, was much to strong and hardy removable... So I decided to construct the support in the CAD model. CURA now recognises walls and each support line is printed with a double line. I tried to adjust nozzle and wall sizes, but nothing helps. To save more time (and material) it would be great, if there was a chance to make CURA print the support lines as thin as it prints it's own generated support. Is there a way to achieve this? Here is the part which I am printing with the constructed support:

Forgot another fact: The previous test was printed at 230°C. After that I printed another extrusion test at 210°C. Here we go: Everything fine until including 6mm3/s. (with "tocking" now and then) At higher rates the noise got harder and the result shows typical under extrusion. So, panic or not. Something must be wrong here :(

Well, could be that I am making some kind of "over-panic". Feel free to stop me from getting mad.. Atomic cleaning: done - as predicted without any visible problems/dirt: nozzle clean Extrusion test: done - not as bad as suspected: Including 8 everything fine. BUT. "tocking" startet now and then at 7mm3/s: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xiugtssauo2bwtf/7mm3s.m4v?dl=0 But there are no visible problems in the printout, including even 8mm3/s with a little more tocking as in the video, see photos above. "tocking" more or less permanent at 9mm3/s: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9vfc5roguu979mm/9mm3s.m4v?dl=0 Here the problems with the printout began. At this point the tension of the feeder was about the second line from above - you can see this in the video. After filming I reduced tension completely, indicator above first line. Tocking was reduced then and the printout was a little bit better, as you can see on the second photo above. Forgot something: Already increased E Motor current to 1300mA! P.S.: How do you like my invention of the word "tocking"?

My UM2 extended has printed about 20 hours yet. After problems with strange noise (see other thread) and some adjustments in my settings the results are not to bad at all. But... Material: supplied PLA (silver) from UM, printed with factory set 210°C, heated bed at factory 60°C. Printer is completely stock. From the very first start of the printer the feeder turns a few degrees "back" sometimes. This happens not always, but there is barely a minute without this "tock" noise from the rear side... The "visual ultimaker troubleshooting guide" talks about a quarter turn back when a skip back happens. Thats way more than my feeder does. So I am asking myself: Is the "pull back" of the material for only a few degrees (I would say 10-15) intended for printing reasons? Or should this never happen and as a result I a have a problem? My first long (about 15hrs) print yesterday ended up with a weight of 160 grams - Cura said it should have a weight of 268g. I must admit, that I used the standard speeds after changing from fast to expert mode with the result of partly high extrusion rates... which should otherwise not be a problem with a good working printer?! A test print yesterday (after some adjustments, mainly print speed) weighs 31g, Cura says 38g. (see photo) This was printed with max. 4.8mm3/s. I am not to sure, but it may be, that the "tock" noise came mainly while printing at the maximum (inner wall)..... How big is the differene between calculated and real weight in your experience? Both prints were printed with 0.2mm layer height. I want / have to print large parts without the need of perfection in inclined areas etc. So am I having a problem with skip backs / under extrusion issue? Or am I to accurate in my expections? Could a clogged nozzle be the reason for such problems after only 20 hours of printing without any material change? In addition the "tock" noise is from the very first test print there, I thought, this is normal. I will try the atomic cleaning method now...

My UM2 extended has printed about 20 hours yet. After problems with strange noise (see other thread) and some adjustments in my settings the results are not to bad at all. But... Material: supplied PLA (silver) from UM, printed with factory set 210°C, heated bed at factory 60°C. Printer is completely stock. From the very first start of the printer the feeder turns a few degrees "back" sometimes. This happens not always, but there is barely a minute without this "tock" noise from the rear side... The "visual ultimaker troubleshooting guide" talks about a quarter turn back when a skip back happens. Thats way more than my feeder does. So I am asking myself: Is the "pull back" of the material for only a few degrees (I would say 10-15) intended for printing reasons? Or should this never happen and as a result I a have a problem? My first long (about 15hrs) print yesterday ended up with a weight of 160 grams - Cura said it should have a weight of 268g. I must admit, that I used the standard speeds after changing from fast to expert mode with the result of partly high extrusion rates... which should otherwise not be a problem with a good working printer?! A test print yesterday (after some adjustments, mainly print speed) weighs 31g, Cura says 38g. (see photo) This was printed with max. 4.8mm3/s. I am not to sure, but it may be, that the "tock" noise came mainly while printing at the maximum (inner wall)..... How big is the differene between calculated and real weight in your experience? Both prints were printed with 0.2mm layer height. I want / have to print large parts without the need of perfection in inclined areas etc. So am I having a problem with skip backs / under extrusion issue? Or am I to accurate in my expections? Could a clogged nozzle be the reason for such problems after only 20 hours of printing without any material change? In addition the "tock" noise is from the very first test print there, I thought, this is normal. I will try the atomic cleaning method now...

Printed a few hours in the meanwhile, the noise is gone!

Well, gr5 No.1, even without watching the video it seems that you could be right. There was no moving of any rod determinable during printing. But the screw of top left pulley was not really tight, I could loosen it easily. After that I could push the rod a bit to the outside of the printer. I tightened it again with the describe amount of force Hand moving does not make any more noise now. Printing follows later this evening...

Thank you gr5 No.2 I did so for endless minutes now, but I absolutely can not figure out, where it is coming from. I am kind of helpless at the moment. And to be honest: I am not very motivated to do some trial and error disassembling on such an expensive machine, which is just a few days old. If someone asks for me, I am pushing the print head back and forth the next hours...

Here is a video with the described noise: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0fe200zaykfpygs/IMG_2778.MOV?dl=0

Last week I received my Ultimaker 2 extended. I am new in 3D printing and in the past few days I played around with my new toy. I have some issues with under extrusion, skip back noises from the feeder since the first run of the printer (the Ultimaker robot, what else). I use silver PLA, which came with the printer and did not change any values before printing. This night after aprox. 3 hours of total printing for the machine a strange noise appeared. It comes out of the direction of the left stepper motor. With every rotation of the motor you can hear a "clack" sound. Not scary, but loud enough for me to start worrying. The printing process is not affected, visually everything (except the said issues with skip backs above) works fine. The print ran 15 hours and the noise did not change its intensity. If this is a not know issue, I could provide a video of the behaviour. Thanks in advance, Michael