CapableQuad

Did you check the wire connection to the print head? I have add similar problems and invariably reseating that connection solves it. You have to undo the two bolts on the top of the print head to get at it.

No, I didn't, I printed at 0.2 with the default settings, there is the tiniest amount of oozing which causes specs or tiny hairs of material on the back of the shield but this comes off when I brush the surface with my finger. I am happy with the result. I am going to try at 0.25 and a stack of 3 next.

Thank you for help. I started off using the CPE profile which printed fine, but then I found the PETG profiles in the marketplace. I have installed those into my UM3. I am now using the eSun profile as a starting point . I notice that it prints at 250C compared to 235C for the generic CPE profile. I am using my filament drier to keep the PETG at 50C. The face shields are printing really well. Success, thanks for the help.

Thanks I will check it out, it may not make any difference.

Thank you, I will try the profile today. I have standard UM cores so I will make the adjustment for line width.

Hi, thank you for your response. I am trying to print the US model. The maximum dimension is around 197mm. I have solved the problem though. It was a simple error. In the 3 years that I have been using Cura, I did not ever understand the meaning of the slightly greyed out portions of the build plate as depicted on the screen. By default Cura seems to center the model onto the center of the build plate. I assumed that the automatic centering placed the model at the optimum location for maximum printing size based on the dimensions of the model. I found out that this is not the case, so by moving the model slightly to the left so that the edge of the model is not encroaching on the slightly greyed out area solved the issue. Perhaps I should have known this if I had read the documents carefully, we sometimes overlook very obvious solutions, but in my three years of printing small models I had never had to utilize the full area of the build plate. This post should probably get moved to the "dumb mistakes" section. Now I need to learn how to print with PETG. I have successfully printed with PLA, ABS and Nylon (with and without PVA support). The face shields call for using PETG, are there any guidelines for using PETG with the UM3? I have looked on this forum and there are a couple of hints, but nothing specific. Thank you.

Anyone manage to print these on a UM3, seems they are too big, even though they are under the dimensions UM advertises as fitting on a UM3. I have been asked by some hospital staff for help printing these as the hospital cannot supply PPE to all staff. I gratefully appreciate any help.

Thank You for the reply, I am a bit new to opening new threads, but I will just jump in feet first (figuratively speaking) Thanks again

This happened to me yesterday on my UM3. I searched and I found this post, I am a quadriplegic so doing the repair described above is a little above my physical capabilities, I was going to get my wife to help me fix it. I was so frustrated because I was needing to print. My wife wasn't going to be able to help me for awhile. I reasoned that if this was just a poor connection issue I may be able to give the white cable feeding into the printhead a little wiggle and a light pull. That is all I can manage anyway. Well sure enough, it fixed the problem, I didn't need to bother my wife and I was happy on my way back to printing. Thank goodness for this forum it has helped me out many times. By the way, if anyone has some physical capability issues, I spend most of the time using my UM3 to create custom assistive devices to help myself or others to more successfully cope with our individual environments. 3D printing is tailor made for this role. I would love to communicate with others either in this situation or just people just trying to help. I apologize for the hijack at the end.

Yes, I don't have any issues as long as I dont use the maintenance option to do head cleaning. I guess we should report it as a firmware or hardware issue if it is prevalent for others?

I had this happen to me yesterday, it has never happened before. I was performing the maintenance procedure for cleaning the print head. I normally do this manually without using the menu system. For some reason I used the maintenance menu to clean the head yesterday, this is the first time I have used this feature since I have owned my UM3. I have done hot and cold pulls manually in the past many times in the past though. At the start of the procedure when the print returned to the home position the problem occurred. I thought it may have been an aberration caused by some dirt or other issue so I tried again using the menu system. The same problem occurred. I therefore performed the hot and cold pulls without using the maintenance menu. Strange thing is that the printer performed normally after this during normal printing operations. Lesson learned for me - don't use the maintenance system for print head maintenance. My guess is that the home position for the automatic procedure is not correct or the range is too specific. Anyone else had this problem (excepting the responses above).

|Hi, I have the Printdry system too, and it works very well for me. My nylon filaments are normally stored in a drybox and then I move the spool to the Printdry from where I feed directly to the UM3. I normally set the Printdry at about 55⁰C. If I have ever left a spool of nylon exposed, then I dry it for a couple of days before I use it. This system seems to work quite well with no problems. I used to significant issues before I started using this process.

I agree with geert_2, I print with nylon a lot, store the nylon in a dryer and feed the printer directly from there. From my experience nylon can absorb enough moisture from a humid atmosphere to affect the printing quality in just a few hours. Listen for faint popping or cracking sounds, this may be an indication that moisture in the filament is an issue. Of course it could be some other problem (or combination of issues) involving the printhead or temperature settings.

I print mostly with nylon, I have not used Ultimaker nylon though, I use Matterhackers Pro nylon. I don't know how they compare with their properties but I know the Matterhackers nylon prints great on my UM3 with "generic" the nylon setting. Now in regards to your shape, I print small prosthetic devices normally between 15mm to 125mm in dimension, mostly between 1.5mm to 10mm thick. The reason I like nylon is that it is semi-flexible and somewhat indestructible. I think your shape should work fairly well, you will have to experiment with the thickness of the web to get degree of stiffness (or bendi-ness) that you want. A caveat with nylon is the degree that it uptakes moisture into the filament. I use a food dryer to keep it dry, many people underestimate how much this can affect the printing process. After it is printed moisture is not an issue. The other issue with nylon parts are that they are difficult (but not impossible) to glue to other material. I hope this helps.

Great! just what I need. Now I will be able to get rid of all the 0.2mm adjustments in my designs using this info. Thank you