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brentwerder last won the day on June 3 2016

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  1. Hey there! I've been hoping to laser cut a custom Ultimaker Original Plus frame with the dimensions of an UM2 Extended, but I'm having issues sourcing the right materials. I'm in the US, and finding the right metric stuff is difficult. I think I may be able to get away with 1/4" thickness instead of 6mm, but I can't seem to find anything that's the right quality. The closest that I can find is some MDF, and I'd really prefer not to go down that route (moisture, not structurally great, etc). I'd also like to avoid acrylic, though I am making the side panels in frosted acrylic to
  2. Just tried hooking up the fans in series. I tried all the fans I have, but they all have the same problem. One fan (an old one) starts up at around ~80 PWM and the new ones all start at ~235 PWM. It doesn't look like any of them are dead, but they have very high startup voltages. Strange considering they are the same brand and model that I bought from Amazon before. It looks like I either need to settle with very fast fans or purchase some new ones on Amazon. Any recommendations for better quality ones?
  3. Well, there's a few problems out of the way! Not sure how it happened but those two jumpers were missing. I added them back and power returned to the always-on fan and heaters. Thanks for the suggestion! Unfortunately, my dual fan problem persists. Not certain how to fix that.
  4. Hello again, Just spent a few hours trying to get my UMO+ up and running again with no success. My problems all stem from the main board, which is giving me a ton of trouble. My machine has an E3D v6 with two 12v fans wired in parallel, which had worked for a few months before a transistor blew (see my last post). After this happened, one fan wouldn't start and the other worked fine, so I replaced the faulty one with a new one. The replacement didn't work unless I turned the PWM to >240. I just got in some new fans and the same applies with these. Add
  5. Just replaced the board with a spare I had sitting around, and the Fan PWM on that board was working fine, although one of my fans wouldn't start up until I hit 255 PWM. Weird, since I bought a new set of the exact same fan from Amazon. Any clue what's going on with that? Unfortunately, there's another problem: the 24V J19 output (next to the power supply) is busted. It reads 0V, so my always-on fan won't work. Is there another spot on the board I can grab a constant 24V from? Or would it be possible (sorry, not an EE) to use the GPIO outputs to do that when the temp is above
  6. Thanks for the reference. I picked up 10 of those diodes from Digikey (in case I screw up soldering a few times). In the meantime, so I can get back up and running, I think I'll try to reroute my fans to the LED PWM. How exactly did you do that? Thanks.
  7. Just got back to work on my Ultimaker Original Plus: my dual 40mm 12V fans have stopped working. One of the fans had seized up, and I bought replacements to fix the issue. However, after soldering the new one in place, they wouldn't run. They're wired in parallel. The wire going from the board to the fans is OK, just tested that. I'm not sure if the Fan PWM output on the board isn't good anymore, or what. I tried testing the voltage of it when the fans are on at 255, but I'm not sure what the normal voltage is. -Brent
  8. Recently I've had quite a bit of trouble getting technical prints (especially very small ones with tight tolerances) to print right on my UMO+. It looks like my printer isn't printing circles right at all. As you can see, the tolerances here are off by about a millimeter. The irregular circles are very repeatable, too - the odd oval shape is the same through the part. Even just looking at the part, it's obvious that it's not completely circular: I've tried every suggestion I could find on 3DVerkstan, which helped the problem a bit, but it's still there and it's enough to keep very
  9. Alright, the PT100 is dead. It's reading about 3 megaohms whenever I test it, and it looks like the wire is frayed. I'll order a new one ASAP.
  10. Okay... bad news. I played around with resistances and different configurations of the bed thermistor and the hotend thermistor, and nothing worked. I found that the E3D Semitec thermistor is in very good condition. The resistance instantly went down from its starting 121.7 kilo ohm resistance at room temperature when I held onto it. I pulled the PT100 out of the old hotend and tested its resistance, which was around 3 megaohms. I really have no idea if that's normal. It doesn't seem like it, but then again, the thermistor was working perfectly before disassembly. Possibly a bad read
  11. Good idea! I didnt know I could use TEMP2. I'll try that ASAP, which might be in a few days.
  12. Hey all, Finally getting around to making those E3D mods I said I would a few months back... oops Kit assembly is now easier than ever - seems like they've modified the electronics to be easier to work. It comes with a neat little 100k ohm Semitec 104GT thermistor which is held in the heater block with a grub screw. The thermistor and fan now come with detachable Molex terminals which make modifications and maintenance 10x easier than dealing with the mess of wires with the old hotend. However, before assembling the heater block, I tested the thermistor resistance and got some crazy numb
  13. I think I found a culprit. It's kinda funny how small it is, but I think it might be the problem! Boop! Completely stripped nut in the tensioner part of the feeder. This is the nut that held in the spring. I can't upload the photo I found in the assembly guide for some reason, but hopefully you understand which one I'm talking about. I'll try replacing it and I'll update later!!
  14. Okay, I lied. Tried another cube with a lower temperature material. Failed within a minute of starting it. what's going on?!
  15. Alright. I dont know what to make of this next print, but I think it's better than nothing!! The entire print is underextruded, but the good thing is it's constant underextrusion - which means it was feeding (at least kind of) the whole way through! I'll tweak a few more settings, since I was printing with a high-temp filament. Hopefully this means the next print will work great!
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