brentwerder
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Posts posted by brentwerder
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It's there..... it's only documented in 1 of the 2 fan types.
Awesome! I wonder if I can 3D print those connectors...
(I'm probably just going to buy them online, to be honest.) -
I mean the fan connectors at the side of the head can sometimes get loose, f.e. after taking out the bowden, so if you cut of the connectors and just solder the wires you'll be fine.
If you have a damaged fan you can also just cut the wires of the old fan and soder to the new, so you reuse the connector.
Alright - it definitely looks like the electronics are handled differently in the UM2. On my UMO+ the fan wire has no connectors except to the board. It looks like, from the picture, the two fans have shorter wires that connect up to one single wire that runs the rest of the length to the board.
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Look at the actual fan drawing and it should state the connector.
The fans are 12v and connected in serries where the fans plug in at the hot end.
I posted the link to the github drawing above - take a look at it. There's nothing there saying what connection it uses.
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I did NOT mean soldering at the board, only at the fan side of the cabling....
That makes more sense. What do you mean by "at the fan side of the cabling"? Like soldering the two fan wires together? I'm a little confused.
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Check Here.
I found the schematic for the fan, but no documentation on what type of connection it uses. The schematic can be found here. It looks like a good source, though, so I'll take a bit more time to skim over each file to make sure I haven't missed something. Also, it looks like only one of the two pages is included in that GitHub post - on the bottom right hand corner, it says "sheet number: 1 of 2". I'm not sure if there just isn't a second sheet there, or if that's the only page available. Either way, no documentation in that source.
Secondly, I'm not sure how the dual fans connect to the board. I only see one connector on the UM2 board and I'm not exactly sure if the fans just connect together somewhere along the wire or if they connect seperately. The FAN PWM connector looks like it fits in the bottom left of the board in this picture:
why not just be practical and connect/solder the wires directly.... even more stable as you won't have any loose connectors anymore, which happens sometimes after removing the bowden from the head...I see what you're saying there, but I'm not exactly ready to make any changes to the physical board I've got. The risk/penalty of failure are too high for me at this point, so I'll try that later if I have to.
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UM2 Uses two 12v fans and wires them together to make up the 24v supply. If you want just one fan then you will need a 24v one.
They come with the bare wires. If you want the plugs they can also be bought on Ebay. Just check on the Github for the plug part numbers and search them.
Sounds like a plan. What connectors do I need for the wires? I can't really identify which ones they are from just looking at them. I'm looking at some 12V 20mm fans now and I'll buy them as soon as I've figured out my full part list for the project.
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For the fans, Look at the Sunon website and look at the fans for the size and voltages you want. then use that model number and search on ebay for them.
I'll check it out. I'm fairly sure that, since the UMO+ uses the UM2 board, I'll need 24V fans, right? Do you know if they're the right connection? I just kind of want to make sure before I buy them. Thanks for the reply!
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Alright, I'm going to try and bring this topic back from the dead. I've done some more research on the V6, and I've seen some pretty cool videos of assembly and things. What I've heard from this topic (and some of the videos) is that I should probably use a PT100 thermocouple on the V6 to get the best results. It looks to me like the PT100 wouldn't fit in the included heater block, so it looks like I might want to either use my current heater block or modify the E3D block to accomodate the PT100. If not, would the included thermistor work? I'm no expert in electronics, so I don't have much of a grasp on the electrical side of things here.
Secondly, I still don't know what fans to use - I know that I need dual 20mm fans for it, but I'm a bit hesitant to buy them direct from Ultimaker because, first of all, they're super expensive, and secondly, the shipping takes weeks. So I'm somewhat inclined to buy some PC fans if they'll connect properly to the UM2 electronics board (again - not fluent in electronics here, so I wouldn't know which connectors would/wouldn't work). I'm really excited to try out this fantastic hotend (and replace the hotend I've got which melts down almost every day ASAP).
Thanks for all the help so far, and hopefully I'll be able to get up and running with what looks to be a worthwhile investment.
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Of course. I like the laminar air flow idea, just got a little off track when I saw so many comments about the use of the UBIS. Interesting idea, nonetheless!
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Alternatively, I just have to mention the "crossflow fan approach"... Search for it here on the forum.
Wow - I just checked out that post and it looks promising! I've been reading it for a while and it looks like a neat idea. Do you think it's a better way to go about getting a new hotend? My friend has the Printrbot Simple Metal with the UBIS hotend on it (he's never had a single jam, in fact he has never had to take it apart), which is working pretty well for him. I also really like the mount the UBIS has - pretty darn simple! I think I'd have to mod the heck out of my printer to use 1.75mm filament, though, so maybe it isn't time for that one yet. And, besides, if I buy the E3D, I could use it on the RepRap MendelMax 2 I'm in the process of building
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Okay, I think this is my last question: where do you guys buy your fans? I'd like to set it up for dual fans, but I'm not exactly sure where to buy my 40mm fans. Thanks for the help!
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Okay, sounds good! I'll try it out, and if my Ultimaker catches fire and explodes I'll have someone to blame
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Okay, quick question: if I do end up buying the full v6 kit, should I pick up the 12v or 24v model? I haven't really familiarized myself with my printer's electronics, and I'm not sure which one is a better bet. Any suggestions?
Oh, and I've also found a really well-designed mount for the it that uses dual fans that I'm interested in using (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397518). One hiccup of it is the thermocouple mount which is nonexistent on the Original + carriage. Probably not a big deal - might just look a bit funny.
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Thanks for all the great input! I'm still using the original Ultimaker Original + hotend (with some specially treated Chinese nozzles that are awesome), which has been melting down and giving me crud recently. I'm hoping that the v6 will work just a bit better than what I've been getting. I've also thought about trying to modify the Original + hotend to look/work a bit more like the 2's hotend, but I don't exactly think I'm good enough with this hotend to design a new one from scratch.
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The original+ has the case of the original, the difference between the UM2 and UMO is the XY axis are "the other way around" so in your case you can just take a mount for the UMO, there are plenty around.
The original+ has the UM2 electronics (right? the white board) so you can simply use the E3Dv6 version with the block that holds a pt100. The install is simpel, install and mount, connect the new heater from E3D, connect the PT100.
However, WHY do you want to use the E3Dv6? IMHO the 3mm bowden version sucks with PLA, some people use it, but have to add oil to the tube. So if you mainly print PLA don't do it.
I use it myself to print ABS at high temperatures (270c) for this it works very nice.
Oh, and last thing, depending on the design you use, make sure to use the correct voltage fans.
Thanks for the tips! I'm just looking for a more robust hotend that'll handle some more materials. Recently, I've been having trouble printing some materials, and there's been a ton of clogging. I love printing in PLA, so it's a little worrying that you think it sucks - has ABS worked just as well? Thanks again.
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Hello!
After a couple months with great prints on my Original +, I've recently been having some troubles with the hotend. I've had to replace nozzles, heater blocks, and other parts on it and I'm looking for an upgrade that will hopefully be a little more reliable. I've heard a lot of great things about E3D all-metal hotends and I'm thinking about giving the V6 a go.
First things first - have any of you tried doing this before? There are a couple topics about this on the forum already, and I've read some of them, but I'd like to see if any of you have some suggestions to a beginner. I think the biggest problems with doing this are mounting the hotend, supplying power to it, and connecting the bowden tube - I looked on Thingiverse and Youmagine for some mounts but didn't find one specifically for the plus.
Thanks for reading, and hopefully I can get to working on it soon!
-Brent
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Dang. Even with retractions? I've heard of people printing "dualstrusion shields" that basically wrap around the design and keep the drips off of the actual model. After you're done, you just peel it off. Think that'd help at all, or should I just go with foehnsturm's design?
Just really interested in getting two-color prints. Maybe even some dissolve-in-hot-water support material...
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Alright - sounds good. The link to the power supply isn't working - do you think you might be able to link it again on this post? I'll look around for one anyways. Thanks for the quick response, though!
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I've been getting some pretty amazing prints off my Original +, and I'm looking to take it a step further with dualstrusion. While looking around on Ultimaker's site, I saw something I thought was pretty cool - a dual extrusion kit for the Original. Even though the description of the kit says it only works with the Original, I'm pretty sure it would work on my Original +. I looked at all the parts included in the kit, and they seem to match up pretty well with what I had in my extruder kit. The only problems I can see coming up are the fact that the holes engraved in the back panel for the extruder to hang on are on the right side of the machine (not a huge problem), and the hotend on the original is a little bit different from mine. Other than that, it looks like it would work. Any thoughts?
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Awesome - both problems taken care of! Thanks so much for the help
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Awesome - tried that out and the black is almost gone - I'll work on it a bit more after a test print. That's one problem out of the way! Thanks for the help
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Problems, problems, problems...
I'm just going to get right into it: First problem: the rods are discolored in two spots on the x-y carriage of the printer, and in those spots, the carriage slows down just a bit. Not enough to cause defects in my prints - just enough to catch it up when I move the head manually when doing maintainance. Pretty worrying stuff.
The problem arose after a failed print. 26 hours in, I ran out of the ColorFabb PLA/PHA I was using, and decided to use the "Change Filament" option to swap it out with some other PLA I had lying around. Sadly, it wouldn't extrude, and I was left with a 99% complete print. When I turned it off, I moved the head to the back-right corner like I usually do, and noticed that the spot that the head had stopped at during the print had been covered in a layer of black... stuff. Not exactly sure what it is, but it's there. Aaaah!
Next problem: my heater block is tilting! Not sure how or why it happened, but I just noticed it after printing out a smaller profile fan shroud for use with E3D nozzles. The last time I had replaced the nozzle, the block was fine - now it's ever so slightly tilted towards the front left corner of the printer. So far, this hasn't caused any trouble in printing, but it's still pretty worrying. Just posting it here to see if anyone else has had a similar issue.
Thanks for reading,
-Brent
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Wow - thanks for the in-depth response! I'll try each of those out. Thanks so much for the help, and I'll be sure to post the results if it works out alright.
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Okay - so the extruder was not the problem. I was able to fix it (although I had to fully rebuild the extruder 3 times), but the whole infill-doesn't-touch-the-shell problem is still persistent. Here's a shot of the first couple layers of that woodFill print:
(I'm probably just going to buy them online, to be honest.)
E3D-V6 on an Ultimaker Original +?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
YES
Looks like I'm being a bit frustrating - I'm sorry! I'm not quite understanding how you got that working. Is that how the UM2 is set up, or did you have to wire up a new connection like that (what I mean is are those the UM2 fans or different PC fans that you rigged up)? Thank you so much for your help so far!