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Everything posted by jeex

  1. Did you add a new printer to Cura – the UM2+ printer – and removed the UM2 printer? Maybe then the upgrade will fit with the printer you actually have. It's just a thought, i just upgraded and updated myself, but cannot test yet.
  2. De feeder draait de verkeerde kant op na de upgrade naar 2+ Stekkertje in moederbord zit goed (kan ook maar op een manier zitten) in E1. Help!
  3. Correction: i use an iRobert feeder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two. Just fixed the flaw by putting in 2 cm of the bowden tube at the bottom. The hole was large enough by now to squeeze it in. The extruder-top-feeder is in my opinion also makeable with the standard UM2 feeder wheel and stepper motor. I think the wheel can be mounted directly to the end of the long square pin in a printable feeder construction. On the rear corner of the UM2 case the stepper motor has a bevel gear driving a similar bevel gear where the square pin slides through. So the sliding is done at the back end (not on top of the extruder), leaving an even lighter part on top of the extruder. The only haulage is the bevel gear. And no need for adjustments in Cura. I'll ask some mechanical engineering students here at Stenden to work in this.
  4. Thanks for the reply @ultiarjan. In fact, i use one of your feeder designs. Only flaw in it was, after many hundred meters of filament, that the feeder wore out at the bottom, where the filament goes in. I've printed a lot more with a small piece of metal filling the gap. No problems there. I saw you improved that in your latest design. The Bond-tech thing does not solve the real problem, it only reduces the effects. It addresses the problem at the wrong place. The Zero-gravity design is a bit like what i had in mind: a direct feed, but without the weight on the extruder. Nice and also possible without the Bond-tech feeder.
  5. Have been printing a lot of production with UM2 the last two years. Same products over and over again. Thanks to the removable extruder from 3dSolex. Only one issue frustrates production regularly: the feeder. It grinds the filament now and then. Found, printed and tested many alternative feeders. Some are nifty and work well, but do not solve the problems. Also consider using a different wheel https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33367-knurled-feeder-wheel-versus-hubbed-mk8-feeder-wheel-for-filament-drive . Any results with that yet? But i found out that i'm trying to solve the problem at the wrong end. The bowden tube gives a lot of friction, mainly because of the curve from the backend to the top. When trying to push through some filament manually (after cleaning), simply straigtening of the bowden tube reduces friction a great lot. (I also found out that for instance PETG has less friction than PLA in the tube. And also found out that some manufacturers do not really deliver 2.85 mm filament but in fact 3.00 mm or even 3+.) So, is it a strange idea to move the feeder completely to a position closer to the extruder or more on top in stead of in the back of the UM2? And if so, how?
  6. Is there a nifty way to join pieces of filament to one string? I want to join different colors together, so i can print without changing colors all the time.
  7. OK. Thanks for the tips. I'll try them all.
  8. No problem with PLA. So the higher temp of PETG is a problem when in second layer the fans switch on. Any suggestions?
  9. The error occurred while printing with PETG at 242 C nozzle temp. Started testing the same print but now with PLA at 210 C, as that was the only thing different from previous prints. It did not say temp bed error but heater - error. So the heater error occurs when nozzle does not reach or hold temp according to settings?
  10. Don't know. It just says: heater error Yep. Using it for about 6 months now, Will be testing, but i fear the printing results.
  11. Hi, After some minutes of printing, my UM2 stops and says: heater error. This started suddenly and is now repetitive. They are deep enough in the heating block (nothing changed there). Are flow is all right and no contact of heating block with other parts of the print head. What to do?
  12. Maybe someone here can tell me what is more resistant to heat (like boiling water): ColorFab XT or PETG filament?
  13. jeex


    Thanks guys.
  14. jeex


    Is there a good working diluent or dissolvent suff for PLA?
  15. When searching on some dutch words, i kept getting the same amount of results: 11880 in the forum. Even when searching on a Britney Spears songtitle i got those results. Shouldn't it say: 0 results if there are none? See image
  16. About the Colorfabb XT fan mount... Printed Nylon today at 250 C nozzle and 100 C glass plate. The fan mount does not get hot during the warming up – i can easily touch it when temp reaches 250. After printing the first layer (without the cooling fans) there was a small deformation at the front, a bit left from the nozzle. Nothing more. No deformation at the bottom. I actually believe that is caused by the heat of the glass while fans were not running. As the glass was heated at 100 C.
  17. I cannot get proper prints in nylon. Even with this super kapton like spray it warps. Even with a brim around of 10mm it warps. Print settings: 250 C nozzle Glass plate at 100 C Speed at 50 The object is a simple cilinder with a 40mm radius. At the fourth layer it started warping on the hottest side of the glass plate (back left side). Help...
  18. In reaction to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mount – the second version – i started printing the thing. I also printed the https://www.youmagine.com/designs/deflecteur-1p for better cooling of the white insulator, but also for better cooling the alumium thing that holds it all together. Now heat is a problem with objects around the Olson block. Solving it with black graphite stuff and kapton tape is in my opinion first enlarging the problem and then solving it. Most of the heat near the Olsson block that really reaches the fan mount is by radiaton, as conduction is almost impossible (no contact and insulating XT) and current is solved by the fans. So using black graphite is the best way to absorb all of the radiated heat and making it worse. In stead i used transparant XT (Colorfabb) which gives a transparant whitish result. So this reflects or lets the radiated heat through. That was the thought, next to the fact that i did have the transparant XT and not the black stuff... Results: wow, wow, wow. The thing has been printing now for two days. No heat problems, but a way better printing result because of the optimal cooling. I speeded up by 35% and no difference. I can recommend this thing to anyone using the Olsson block. Let's put them together and call them the Olsson twins...
  19. I think the Kapton tape has the purpose of heat protection. And off course you have to use high-temp resistant filament, like Colorfabb XT.
  20. Maybe @mendells can comment on what he thinks is the best option for cooling an Olson block?
  21. A small but significant improvement would be to use higher quality bolts. The stainless steel bolts are too weak and the bolt's heads are ruined easily with one slip of the Allen key.
  22. Nice, very nice. Olson block 0.6 is my standard nozzle now. If a nozzle is dirty, i simply replace it with a clean one, and clean the dirty nozzle later. Next suggestion: replace the horrible UM2 feeder by iRoberts fabulous design: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two No lose ends clogging up the feeder. You can open and close the feeder very easily and it's easy to replace if something goes wrong.
  23. Found to more filaments, and wonder if anyone used these. Can UM2 handle these filaments? https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=Polycarbonate%20%28PC%29 https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=MOLDLAY
  24. This simple change set printing time back from 19 hours to less than 11 hours. Same quality. Great. Thanks again.
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