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Posts posted by jeex

  1. Hi all,


    Happy printing again, this time with CPE and fine results.


    After printing a while, the nozzle gets cluttered up in filament. CPE is very stringy and produces some candy floss while printing. This becomes a problem after switching colour when it keeps making stains in the old colour through the new colour. So I need to clean the nozzle properly at the outside.


    So, question: what is best practice for cleaning the nozzle easily when switching colours?




  2. Hi All,


    My next project is printed in parts. One part needs to be added to the part that is in the printer. So, I manually pause the printer, so I can add the other part. Then, I continue printing.


    Question: is there a GCode Command that I can add in the GCode file, so that the printers pauses automatically at the right line? Or is there a function in Cura or a plugin that can do that?



  3. So, feedback: I bought the very cheap Kexcelled PETG (or CPE) at Bol.com. Standard settings for CPE from Cura. Just a bit of candyfloss at the beginning. For the rest: really excellent printing.


    See the result. I replaced the old Volvo GPS device that goes up and down by a box that can hold my TomTom and contains a double USB plug. Very satisfied with the result.



  4. For the walls with infill I set the material flow back to 100%. Results are really fine. However it does demand patience as printing PETG is way slower than printing PLA.


    The candyfloss is not really getting in the way, but sometimes it forms a blob of material that settles down on inconvenient places.


    I'll share the end results here. By the way: what I'm printing now is a part for the dashboard in my Volvo C70 where I'm replacing the completely useless up-and-down GPS with a box for my own TomTom or smartphone.

  5. 25 minutes ago, Smithy said:


    Thanks a lot 🙂 It helps all others who are looking for an answer for a similar question or just want to help, but don't speak your language. 

    Fun thing is: I work with international students, so I write and speak English all day. And then here, I forget 😱.

  6. I'm printing PETG now, brand is Kexcelled. Printing is OK at 250 degrees Celsius.


    Question however: during printing i see this thin canyfloss threads. In the first layer this is worse than in the rest.


    I raised and lowered print temp to 260 and 240. Same results.

    I reduced flow to 90%, small improvement.


    Any suggestions?



  7. Normally we make PETG filament in our own lab at NHL Stenden Uni in Emmen. We get shreds from local industries. On account of corona and reduced lab capacity, that's not possible. I'll buy some samples here and there and see what I like most and share results here.


    What I'm printing now is 4 year old PETG from Hestay.nl. It comes out nice enough.

  8. PETG is stronger and more durable and doesn't get brittle after a while. And PETG is food-safe. I don't want to print ABS because of the smell and it's not food-safe. PETG is just as easy to print as PLA.


    However it is confusing, all the names en materials:







    Still doing the research on them. Every brand seems to use different names.

  9. Thanks for all the help. I'm coaching a few students in my minor program Creative Programming for Non-IT Students and they are all surprised by the help they get when asking questions online. Share the love 😉


    Printing old transparent PETG with CPE settings. The printhead leaves small crums here and there on a surface, but the result is fine.


    Thanks, you got me going again.


  10. Hi All,


    I've been out for a while, now started printing again with my UM2+. Lots changed on the market of filament. New suppliers, new materials.


    Anyway, I'm looking for good PETG on the Dutch market. Preferably a web shop of course. Can anyone recommend please?



  11. Did you add a new printer to Cura – the UM2+ printer – and removed the UM2 printer? Maybe then the upgrade will fit with the printer you actually have. It's just a thought, i just upgraded and updated myself, but cannot test yet.


  12. Correction: i use an iRobert feeder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two. Just fixed the flaw by putting in 2 cm of the bowden tube at the bottom. The hole was large enough by now to squeeze it in.

    The extruder-top-feeder is in my opinion also makeable with the standard UM2 feeder wheel and stepper motor.

    I think the wheel can be mounted directly to the end of the long square pin in a printable feeder construction.

    On the rear corner of the UM2 case the stepper motor has a bevel gear driving a similar bevel gear where the square pin slides through.

    So the sliding is done at the back end (not on top of the extruder), leaving an even lighter part on top of the extruder. The only haulage is the bevel gear. And no need for adjustments in Cura.

    I'll ask some mechanical engineering students here at Stenden to work in this.

    • Like 1
  13. Thanks for the reply @ultiarjan.

    In fact, i use one of your feeder designs. Only flaw in it was, after many hundred meters of filament, that the feeder wore out at the bottom, where the filament goes in. I've printed a lot more with a small piece of metal filling the gap. No problems there. I saw you improved that in your latest design.

    The Bond-tech thing does not solve the real problem, it only reduces the effects. It addresses the problem at the wrong place.

    The Zero-gravity design is a bit like what i had in mind: a direct feed, but without the weight on the extruder. Nice and also possible without the Bond-tech feeder.

  14. Have been printing a lot of production with UM2 the last two years. Same products over and over again. Thanks to the removable extruder from 3dSolex.

    Only one issue frustrates production regularly: the feeder. It grinds the filament now and then.

    Found, printed and tested many alternative feeders. Some are nifty and work well, but do not solve the problems. Also consider using a different wheel https://ultimaker.com/en/community/33367-knurled-feeder-wheel-versus-hubbed-mk8-feeder-wheel-for-filament-drive . Any results with that yet?

    But i found out that i'm trying to solve the problem at the wrong end.

    The bowden tube gives a lot of friction, mainly because of the curve from the backend to the top. When trying to push through some filament manually (after cleaning), simply straigtening of the bowden tube reduces friction a great lot.

    (I also found out that for instance PETG has less friction than PLA in the tube. And also found out that some manufacturers do not really deliver 2.85 mm filament but in fact 3.00 mm or even 3+.)

    So, is it a strange idea to move the feeder completely to a position closer to the extruder or more on top in stead of in the back of the UM2? And if so, how?

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