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jeex

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Everything posted by jeex

  1. The error occurred while printing with PETG at 242 C nozzle temp. Started testing the same print but now with PLA at 210 C, as that was the only thing different from previous prints. It did not say temp bed error but heater - error. So the heater error occurs when nozzle does not reach or hold temp according to settings?
  2. Don't know. It just says: heater error Yep. Using it for about 6 months now, Will be testing, but i fear the printing results.
  3. Hi, After some minutes of printing, my UM2 stops and says: heater error. This started suddenly and is now repetitive. They are deep enough in the heating block (nothing changed there). Are flow is all right and no contact of heating block with other parts of the print head. What to do?
  4. Maybe someone here can tell me what is more resistant to heat (like boiling water): ColorFab XT or PETG filament?
  5. Is there a good working diluent or dissolvent suff for PLA?
  6. When searching on some dutch words, i kept getting the same amount of results: 11880 in the forum. Even when searching on a Britney Spears songtitle i got those results. Shouldn't it say: 0 results if there are none? See image
  7. About the Colorfabb XT fan mount... Printed Nylon today at 250 C nozzle and 100 C glass plate. The fan mount does not get hot during the warming up – i can easily touch it when temp reaches 250. After printing the first layer (without the cooling fans) there was a small deformation at the front, a bit left from the nozzle. Nothing more. No deformation at the bottom. I actually believe that is caused by the heat of the glass while fans were not running. As the glass was heated at 100 C.
  8. I cannot get proper prints in nylon. Even with this super kapton like spray it warps. Even with a brim around of 10mm it warps. Print settings: 250 C nozzle Glass plate at 100 C Speed at 50 The object is a simple cilinder with a 40mm radius. At the fourth layer it started warping on the hottest side of the glass plate (back left side). Help...
  9. In reaction to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mount – the second version – i started printing the thing. I also printed the https://www.youmagine.com/designs/deflecteur-1p for better cooling of the white insulator, but also for better cooling the alumium thing that holds it all together. Now heat is a problem with objects around the Olson block. Solving it with black graphite stuff and kapton tape is in my opinion first enlarging the problem and then solving it. Most of the heat near the Olsson block that really reaches the fan mount is by radiaton, as conduction
  10. I think the Kapton tape has the purpose of heat protection. And off course you have to use high-temp resistant filament, like Colorfabb XT.
  11. Maybe @mendells can comment on what he thinks is the best option for cooling an Olson block?
  12. A small but significant improvement would be to use higher quality bolts. The stainless steel bolts are too weak and the bolt's heads are ruined easily with one slip of the Allen key.
  13. Nice, very nice. Olson block 0.6 is my standard nozzle now. If a nozzle is dirty, i simply replace it with a clean one, and clean the dirty nozzle later. Next suggestion: replace the horrible UM2 feeder by iRoberts fabulous design: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two No lose ends clogging up the feeder. You can open and close the feeder very easily and it's easy to replace if something goes wrong.
  14. Found to more filaments, and wonder if anyone used these. Can UM2 handle these filaments? https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=Polycarbonate%20%28PC%29 https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament?t=MOLDLAY
  15. This simple change set printing time back from 19 hours to less than 11 hours. Same quality. Great. Thanks again.
  16. Hoi All, Still optimizing print time. So again a Cura matter: is it possible to make Cura forget to close the box with a top layer, so that the upperside of the box shows the infill and does not get a top layer? Yes, i know, i can abort printing at the right time to get the desired results. But when printing multiple objects (one after the other), that is not an option. Thanks again.
  17. Ohoh. One more script to go. After the print job is done, raising the buildplate, set fan to 100% and rotating the fan above the objects to force cooling down the objects. My super glue spray only lets go if the plate is cooled down. Amazing stuff: sticks like hell when warm, not sticky at all when cold. I tried this way of forced cooling manually and it works great. So language no.12 here we go. Learning gcode.
  18. It 'happened' to me last week for the first time. Did not know what i saw. And suddenly i could not fit the 15 objects on the plate the way i used to. Now i'm very pleased with this option.
  19. I can hear you all laugh about me, strugling my way through the many expert settings, while the solution is in this simple menu with only two options... Thanks.
  20. I'm printing several objects at the same time. So i multiply them in Cura and somehow things can go two ways, and i do not know how to control that. Or the objects get a load of space around them (by Cura) and then are printed on object after the other. Or the objects are all printed at the same time, layer by layer I prefer the first option, because of less post-processing and if things go wrong, you only lose one object (and time) in stead of the hole batch. There is something else: the first gcode-document containts a skirt, the second one does not. How can i get control over thi
  21. Nice happy corner. If your grandma only new that nowadays you don't have to travel to America, you just 3D print it...
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