jeex

Hallo Sander, Ik had "met spoed" in het pinksterweekeinde een printer nodig voor een proto (wv het ontwerp inmiddels naar de fabrikant in China is). Dus via Marktplaats een zgan tweedehands gekocht voor heel weinig geld, waar dikke rol filament bij zat. Geweldig apparaat. Naaimachineolie heb ik wel, dank voor de tip. Groene grease heb ik niet. Zou aardig zijn in jullie shop: een onderhoudssetje. Wat voor spul is dat? Ook de Best Answer tip zal ik om denken.

Mijn UM2 kwam zonder toelichting. Dus ik vraag me af: wat voor onderhoud moet ik aan het ding plegen? Moet er wat gesmeerd worden, hoe vaak en vooral waarmee?

Hallodio, In mijn gevecht tegen warping zoek ik nu naar de handigste en beste lijm/spray voor de UM2 verwarmde glasplaat. Welke lijm en waar te koop? En dan meteen de volgende vraag: waarmee en hoe is dit naderhand schoon te maken? En nog een vraag (want vragen staat vrij): moet de verwarming van de glasplaat met die lijm erop hoger of lager of uit? Alvast dank

My UM2 came without it, so i printed it. That was my first print and it came out perfect.

Thanks for the reply. If you look at the image closely, you see even the brim coming up from the plate. I'll try the glue as well as changing temp and reflect the results here.

I'd say: ask the Ultimaker company for advise. This shouldn't be able to happen. I'm sure they want to know what went wrong. I would find a PLA dissolvent (if printing PLA) and hang your paper weight in it until the PLA is gone. Then try to fix it. All parts, like nozzle and fans are replaceable.

Do you use a the filament guide? My UM2 had a strange sound on the back and it was a twisted line of filament on the wheel. As the filament feeder has quite some strenght it pulls the filament out of the twist. That says "clack". The filament guide i printed helps prevend, but it still happens sometimes.

Result is nice, looks real good. But the whole first cm has shrunken by 10%. Got the tip of printing the first layers real slow for better adhesion and than lower temp after 5mm. More tips are welcome.

I'll be backing this. Wow, nice results.

So, are you backing the project. To me it is not clear how this combines with Cura and gcode. Any ideas on that?

Also with brim the lower corners curl up. As you can see in the photo, the brim goes up with it. Personaly i think it is because the surface is too long on the heated bed. It shrinks. Other suggestions? Is it possible to add lines to the gcode so that it turns down heating of the glass plate? Just for experiment?

Glass contact is OK. Glas temp is around 60. Brim helpen on a smaller part. Still must try on a bigger thing. Now for the promissed design: it is the proto and demo version of the board of a board game. Two identical parts, with thwo small hinges. Two screws keep the two parts together. Two small magnets keep the board closed. The stones, 14 in total, are kept within the box. The whole closed box is 130x105x50 mm. One half, bottom side. Two halfs together with hinges. Ready to play.

Will check glass contact with alu as well. Thanks. Now i'm making a test print for the hinge i made for the board. If ready, i'll share the whole thing here. Thanks.

OK, thanks. I'll give it a try and let you know what it does.

Thanks for the reply. I use all the standard settings of Cura for UM2. So cooling... more or less? See the image (i found my camera) the bigger the box (left is biggest), the more it shrinks at the bottom layers touching the plate. Both boxes should have stayed flat on the bottom. I will try the next one with a lower glass temperature. Or switch the glass temp off and use a sticky spray.

Printing of this half (see image) of my new developed game board gives a very beatiful result. However, during the proces of printing, when about 5-10 mm are done, the corners are slightly shrinking. I thing because it is too long on the heated glass plate. Off coarse the whole thing is on the heated plate, but the corners are free so they shrink easyer than the middle of the board. So, questions: is my suggesion about the heated plate that shrinks the board correct, or are there other reasons for this? And if so, can i manipulate that temperature during the printing proces. Can i adjust the gcode so that the heating turns off after say 5mm. The board is by then heavy enough not to move anymore.

Het enige wat je nu nog nodig hebt is: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/protocycler-free-sustainable-3d-printer-filament#/story Leuk.

Done some research. How is it that cheaper brands like the http://www.marnic3d.nl/Printer and http://www.vertex3dprinter.eu/ can offer a second nozzle? The way they do it is not so much different from the way it would be mounted into the UMO or UM2.

So i'll be switching colours a lot. Thanks for the reply.

All nice, but still no second nozzle on the Ultimaker. Does anyone know when the experiment with the Utimaker Original will lead to a definite product for the UM2?

Thanks for the replies. I'm ordering the party packs with different colours and materials as we speak. LOL. Printing my second prototype with 20 micron layers. That's 50 layers per mm. Wow. If OK they will be used for casting. Think i'll open a blog on this project.

Hi all, I'm very new at this. Started 3d printing with UM2 for prototyping a board game. What a great world this 3d-printing is! Printed my first tests with PLA that was delivered with the UM2, printed the filament guide that wasn't part of the package and found out that e small piece of filament can be used as wheel axis. So lots of fun. Now back to the project: the board game with stones. Question: are filaments like http://colorfabb.com/specials-sample-pack ready to use in the UM2 and where do i find (info on) the filement settings? Thanks. As the game will be semi open source, i will share the printing models here and on Youmagine off course, with a video with gameplay and explanations. After the Kickstarter project we launch in october.