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  1. Hi folks... I am a new Ultimaker 2 owner of just a month or so. And like noted above, I am already sick of heavy retractions causing the filament feeding to fail. 10cm of plastic chewed and eaten, 2+ feet of filament wasted. And of course, hours of printing lost to the recycler. I have to ponder the question of an old welders term, Cast and Helix. When I pull a few loops of a reel, snip it off and toss it to the floor. The circle it relaxes to is its cast, and the distance between circles the helix. 3mm can be quite stiff. The problem for welders, is the same here. Any tube fed system is going to suffer from the spring in the coil, binding on the tube as it slides thru. A reliable welding feeder normally has 2 sets of power pinch rollers. So the wire might slip on 1, but not on both. As well, a set of idlers are placed in advance to remove some of that spring. And for soft strands, material movement industries use a "Catapuller". The tube is part of the fail, along with rollers harder then plastic. And not to get off topic, but why call it a Bowden anyhow? The patent for Bowden's says it is a mechanism to telegraph movement, pushing, pulling, or rotational. But if we call it a Bowden, there is at least one making a flex shaft affair that uses the tube as a real Bowden... I heard a rumor he might have done some design work for Ultimaker as well. I am printing a new extruder frame, culled from this list. I also took the belt feeder design, and added a straightener ahead of the feed. Still working on the differential to power all the wheels properly, and am waiting for the various parts to arrive before I can assemble it. I certainly am tired of trashed plastic and models. When its right, its so right I love it, nagging bits and all. But never have I had such issues with a printer. Four deltas in all sizes feeding 1.75mm just fine. So.. Wouldnt it be wise to just poach some old patents for wire fed welders? Or perhaps 'Force driving flexible round strand.' Shrug Hopefully I get a good set of prints, so I can slap together something that stops that centimeter of plastic from looking like crack fed squirrels got after it. Thanks for the tips and help from all in this post, least I know I am not alone. Hopefully just a few minutes away from finding a cure Cheers James
  2. Post finished with a vibratory tumbler is common in most industries. These tools are less used by lapidary. Seeking a lapidary tumbler will take you the wrong way. Think parts, ammunition brass, etc. One places a media in the tumbler that provides the desired results. Tumbling mediums are diverse, with engineered geometries to provide differing results. Cones, jacks, spikes, rods, spheres, etc. Lapidary does use these btw, but not as rock tumblers. Rotary systems are designed to remove detail, shaping and changing. Vibratory systems are used to polish, harden, and remove stray detail. Vibratory tumbling uses engineered geometries to provide the desired results. Little cones, jacks, spheres, etc. The media is graded in hardness to the product being tumbled as well. If you hunt thru jewelry finishing articles, say in Rio Grande, or YouTube, you will find lots of discussions on proper use of this tool. It is not appropriate for many models, but perfect for others. In our case, one can print a few plates of shapes in the same plastic we are finishing. Then use sawdust or such as the base to keep things from beating each other up. What I find perfect for almost everything I do, is a simply media blaster. Think sandblaster using baking soda. Harbor Freight sells these systems cheap also, you will need a containment system, but baking soda blasting gives you great control, and strips hair and such off models quickly. On harbor freight, just search for 'Blasting' Another tool that can be used more casually is a spot cleaning gun from the laundry industry. These shoot water out a fine nozzle so fast it can be hazardous. The following link is simply a grab from google, and not a vendor recommendation. https://goldstartool.com/KSK_Cleaning_Gun_110_Volt.html My favored is simply media blasting with baking soda btw... Results are amazing, but does take practice to develop the art in using it.
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