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Danieljenzen

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About Danieljenzen

  • Birthday 08/10/1991

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  • Country
    NO
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2

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  1. Hello! I have a UM2, and think about upgrading to this "Matchless Block" i've heard alot about recently. I am wondering if anyone has experience with atomic Pulls regarding these. How does it work when the Matchless nozzles have this kinda "mechanism" inside? I'ts kinda new so im hoping someone have already tried it! Also, anyone have experience printing with 1.5mm nozzle? Is it possible and is it worth it? Thanks you in advance
  2. Does your problem meet all the similarities as mentioned in this thread or could it also be regular under extrusion for example? Alot of my prints lately look alot like the pictures posted in this thread. Lines are not touching but some places they are. 0.1 setting hides it for the most part but it shows sometimes. I might aswelll try the axles, if that doesnt work, ill look into buying the kit upgrade after the printer isnt considered "fresh". But if i recall correctly, there should be a way to check the axles right? If they have the correct distance and all?
  3. Hello! I just found this thread about my exact problem! Is the issue really fixed? Is there really no other way of fixing this except buying a whole new upgrade kit? I've got a fairly new printer and haven't printed much at all, kinda hurts to buy a kit that expensive when i feel the printer doesnt really need it. Is warranty a solution here? Thank you in advance
  4. thank you for quick and good answer as always. I could rather just smear some silicon or something on the inside to make it watertight if needed though? By the way, am i able to get one of the screws for the axis pulleys? i noticed that im missing one.
  5. i guess its worth to mention. i use PLA/PHA from colorfabb
  6. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:903411 Printed these with: 0.2 0.8 shell 100% fill to get watertight 30mm/s bottom layer 10mms 0.3 layer outershell 20mms im trying to make this but the print either get extremely ugly or the White pot doesnt get watertight. I use my old printer for the white part and 1 month old for the blue part. This is how they look. I'm already printing very slow and ofc, ive tightend everything as asked and cleaned the nozzles. Why am i not getting this right? I see plenty of others printing with PLA getting this right even with the "fast" simple setting and looks nice from cura which i also tried, i had to stop cause of the stepper engine slipping filament.... im spending more time on this forum that printing lately
  7. Yes agreed, thank you for your consistent help gr5 on my other posts aswell, i seeme to be running into ALOT of problems in my starting days as a 3d printer, each and everytime crushing my sould and leaving me clueless, but eventually fixing it. This rollercoaster of crushing dreams and rebuilding it really saps the energy out of me.
  8. I figured it out! I know gr5 told me never to remove the transparent cover, but i had to. I noticed that one of the switch cable looked abit sketchy and i wanted to give it one last try before i sendt it back. As you see on the photoes, the Red cable, looks like its supposed to be welded to the switch, but the connecting point of the cable and the switch was waaay too weak and small. So i trimmed off some of the red rable on the end to give it bigger space to "connect with", mounted it on the switch with the black sleeve, and it worked! This might have happend due to VERY VERY small vibrations on the cable, as it always has been very close to the Y-axis engine belt, i might be wrong, but when i tighten those pulleys, that might have been the last hanging atom connecting the switch to the printer shaking loose by the slightest touch on the machine. I have no idea if it will hold like this in the long term, but it shouldnt be able to shake loose anytime soon.
  9. Oh yes, i went over all the pulleys i touched the first place many times. And yes, i removed the inner white cover after gr5 told me to, and checked the stepper. Its tight and running good. I cant believe how this could happen. As i mentioned in the first post, i pressed "home head" to check if everything was allright after the tightening, and it went fine, but when i started a print, thats when it went wrong, and havent been able to use the printer since.
  10. Hello, thank you for you answer. I cant think of any reason how this is possible, NEVERR touched the switch or the cables, i just adjusted the extruder head so i could tighten the 2 pulleys in that corner and centered the axis. In that case, am i able to get the switch pack by warranty or something? the price for the parts is 15 euro, which is lovely, but 30euro freight? :/
  11. Hello! the topic says it all Printer was working 100% fine and just did a 35 hour print. After this i thought about doing some maintenance on the machine to keep it fresh, cause lately, ive bought a new printer, and rotating its extruder head around feels alot less resistant than my old one, i sometimes had to put alot of force into moving the printhead left and right(standing infront of printer) And noticed the printer wasnt finishing the top layers too good, so i tried to tighten the pulleys and basicly everthing i could tighten. including centered some axis, as one of them was sticking out of the printer. so everything looked 100%. After this i pressed "home head" and it went all just fine, but when i went on to start a print, the extruder head always does "home head" first, and this is where the Y axis sensor switch probably stopped working. "switch error, contact support" Ive read alot about this in the last 3 hours: The metal tip is bent corrently The sensor emits the faint click sound when moved to, as in activated button. ive checked absolutely all pulleys, belts and screws. i even took off the left big white cover to see if any cables was pinched while tightening the short belts and whatnot. No cables look damaged, although i noticed for some time that it looks like some of the belts or something, is getting grinded on, as i found lots of black dust around the engine, same for the X engine, on top of both engines. i have no idea if this has anything to do with it. Only thing i didnt do, was removing the bottom plate, this happend while i was trying to give the machine some tightening up, so it couldnt have done any damage in the main board. The machine has run 1000 hours of printing. 04 nozze, bought this one from Netherlands via ultimaker.
  12. Thanks for feedback! I figured it out. i Changed the nozzle and the prints looks alot better! I think the previous nozzle had take too much beating from alot of experiementing, as it has been my first nozzle with 0 experience printing what so ever.
  13. Hey again! thank you for great answers, but i got a new question! These pictures below, is from my first printer, its printed with ¨ 0.2 layer 1.2 shell 30mms on everything 10mms bottomlayer. 210c. 10%infill. Can you see the rugged and thick lines? how does with happen? but not with my newest printer? ive done atomic pulls and everything, is it time to change nozzle? its been printing for 925 hours. 963M This is from my newest printer. no problems
  14. Now this is great. After 400 atomic pulls and pressing down filament and pulling up, the belt pulleys are now damaged and the prints im making looks ugly cause of the pulleys adjusting the nozzle up and down on fixed locations. Now this is a major problem. I tried to fix this by moving the extruderhead along its full range of movement to see if it helps smoothing out the imperfections of the pulleys, but then the printer turn off and now i cant do anything, it just wont turn on. I need expert help QUICK! please!
  15. The lines that goes upwards the print im making? how do they occur? 0.4 noz 0.2 layer 30mms 10-15% infill. i think 0.8 or 1.2 wall. not sure at all
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