Wisar
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Posts posted by Wisar
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My UM3 has decided to not accept print jobs across the network with the following message. Note that it still prints just fine from the thumbdrive and there are no messages of anything wrong from the printer
Unavailable: This printer is currently unable to accept new print jobs
Verbiage
The 3D printer can't start a print unless both print cores are present. Install the matching print cores to proceed.
The selected 3D printer reports an unexpected status. Ensure that your printers have the latest version of the firmware, or delete and resubmit this print job to try again.
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I have been pondering whether or not to buy a Maintenance Kit for my Ultimaker 2+.
My printer has 2500 hours of print time on it so I decided to go for it.
The installation of all the bits went well though there were a couple of human factor issues. The end result, though, was well worth it. Not only does the printer print like new...it is also quite a bit quieter!
I do have a question out of this...at how many hours, generally, would this be recommended? It is an expensive upgrade!
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Hi @Wisar,
Thank you for your post, sorry to hear about the difficulties you have with your Ultimaker 3. Has your Ultimaker already made its way to 3DGBIRE, or what is the current status?
I think a lot of the remedies mentioned here make sense when the clog is in the nozzle, but recently there was mention of a clog in a print core in a different place.
Check out this photo. Your description of your clog could mean something like this happened to you too.
In that case, it is assumed it could happen because the third fan in the print head did not work. Otherwise it should be impossible. Do you know if yours work(s/ed)?
I am pretty sure 3DGBIRE will do their best to help you like they have done in the past and make sure you can get back to 3D printing. I do feel slightly obligated to mention that the Ultimaker 3 has been perfectly dialed in for our filaments and Cura, and using third party filaments (or s3D) may require some extra attention or caution as they may behave differently. Not saying you are to blame, but there may be a difference in bed adhesion, layer bonding, strength / brittle etc. So your 3D print experience may be different, maybe even a bit more risky, than what you grew familiar to.
3DGBIRE is dispatching a new print head and even a print core today so I should be on the air tomorrow.
The jam that you linked me to is what would make sense to have happened to me. The printer was probably "running dry" for 45 minutes with no movement of the filament. I don't know if the fan was working or not unfortunately. The print head is packed ready to come home though. I would really like to know!
I get you on the use of your filament for your profiles. When I got my first UM2 I ditched buying cheap filament but did not go all the way to yours. I do have a fair bit of your stuff now but am also a fan of some of the other nicer brands (Colorfabb being my favorite). The t-glase was a complete experiment for one particular need but given that I had it.....another use came up. In the future I will be very cautious of what I use on the UM3 but even more so, what I put in Slot 2 as it is a little more crowded if something goes sideways.
I do appreciate the level of support that I have gotten across this forum, 3DBGIRE, and even from your online community folks on Facebook :-o .
Will
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The core is going back to 3DGBIRE. I am not sure from there whence it will go but I would think that someone would want to see it for a post mortem. If it does not go to the Netherlands, and 3DGBIRE is not going to look at it, then I will suggest to them that it come your way! I would love to know what happened.Well first step would be to get the core out obviously. I'm not sure how to do that. The number 2 core is harder to get at the top area as it's more complicated. Maybe a very hot knife heated to 200C? But then you might damage the print head.
Second step would be to ship the core back to reseller. I offer to buy broken cores from resellers as I've taken many cores apart but no one has taken me up on my offer.
How to disassemble a core:
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:-oLordy well I am glad I did not admonish you for putting your t-glase in a furnace, which I almost. I have just looked at their site and see that the 212c they recommended was a misprint and it should be 235-245. No wonder I could never get the stuff to sick on the bed and so gave up!!!
My first attempt at printing with it was at a lower temperature (same missprint probably) and it did not work so well at all. I very successfully printed a couple of other things in single extruder mode. In this case I was using the t-glase in a multi-extrusion print. The first one failed because of user error but the t-glase had started to go down nicely. The second print jammed and jammed hard. Now down and waiting for someone at 3DGBIRE to decide what to do...they seem flummoxed by the issue.
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That sounds like a cold plug, one of the situations where I might actually recommend the high temp warmup hold. The difference is I'd go to the material print temp, wait 3 minutes, then physically hold back the heatsink cooling fan for the hot end for 1-2 minutes before pulling. This causes filament to soften above the heatbreak [because the heatsink isn't cooled anymore and warms up], and can loosen a cold plug. It's a risky move but would probably be next step.
Alternatively if you've managed to get support through other channels and methods, there's no guarantee my suspicion is correct so you might prefer other courses of action.
Me thinks I will wait for next steps from 3DGBIRE who do seem a little stumped at the moment.
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I am out of practice clearing jams as I can not really remember the last time I had one on my UM2+ machines and this was certainly a first on the UM3. It was a jam like no other that I have ever had. The filament would not budge in either direction under normal filament temperature (235c t-glase). At 260c same thing. I was able to lift the machine and swing it around my head on the filament stuck in the print core. Ok, not exactly, but you get the point. I am looking forward to the post mortem.
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I did what 3DGBIRE recommended which was just to get it hot over a fifteen or so minute period. I did try pushing and it did not move...same in other direction and both with a lot of force.
It is disassembled and the filament cut down in hopes that I could at least eject the print core.
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Hey sorry about it I see you're having a lot of trouble.
I run a shared UM3 a little and a prusa along with my repraps. Sometimes every printer goes through the worst shit.
I didn't really read the whole thread and notice you agreed brim might make sense in some cases.
Hope the rest of your problems resolve.
FYI in future I think heating the t-glase above 200C should be plenty to remove it from a clog. I would probably heat the end up and manually pull back, but it sounds like you've tried a few similar things like that and your issue might be more complicated than I can diagnose from the description. Good luck
I acually don't print as often on the UM3 as on my own printers (since it's not really mine) but it is in my mind a beautiful machine. I can't see where it would have worse problems than other printers in terms of the clog/jam you got. My issues with clogs in all my printers have nearly eliminated vs. 3 yrs ago except for certain filaments that seem to have quality issues and if I print .25mm nozzle (just too small.)
I hope, for Ultimaker's sake, that I am the exception! I have had two UM2s for going on two years and have never had anything but good luck with them (though I have had some self inflicted wounds). The problems that I have had have been resolved easily and quickly with minimal downtime from printing. I have gotten great support from the reseller (3DGBIRE) so far but it is still painful to have such an expensive printer sitting idle.
Re Jams. I stopped using cheap filament some time ago as I like the quality and consistency of a better quality of plastic. I have had some pretty good jams in the past though with the "+" upgrade the UM2's did get better even with my .25mm nozzles. I left the heat on this jam at 260c for fifteen minutes and still no luck pulling.
We will see. Hoping for the best in terms of getting some working parts back.
Will
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No thread as I went through reseller support channel. Was doing a dual extrusion print using T-Glaze in the right print core. Came back to the printer after a bit to find a nozzle jam on said print core. Canceled the print and tried to unload the filament but could not due to no traction on the filament due to grinding. It was so bad that I had to disassemble the filament drive. Then tried an unload but with manual pull and no joy. The tried heating to 260c to try and pull it out by brute force with no luck. Then tried heating to 260c for 15 minutes with the same result. Thought that I might be able to cut the filament just above where it enters the the print head but t-glaze is too stiff for that trick when combined with the extra stuff on the right side. So the print core is well and truly stuck. It is off the printer waiting to go to the doctor and the printer is lights out.Is the Print Core not heating anymore? Did the filament snap off somewhere between the Core and the top of the printhead block? Is there another thread with the Print Core issue?
Will
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Thanks to @tomnagel we now know that this is caused by the z-hop parameter that needs to be off. It must have switched from on to off between 2.3.0 and 2.3.1.
Cheers, Will
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Print cooling is off.
WolfBite is awesome.
First, Is WolfBite easy to apply? Adhesion has been one of my issues with anything but Klapton tape which I find to be a pain. I occasionally want to print something in ABS (for smoothing) but talk myself out of it as opposed to Kaptoning the glass.
Second, my other problem with ABS is with fine details. I had a Makerbot clone and a directed fan that made that kind of detail work possible that I have not been able to duplicate on my UM2+ (but that does work pretty well on the UM3). DO you do prints like what I am describing and if so how do you get a good result? Here is an image of a model that I struggled doing with ABS on my UM2's: The details on the top of the hull would not have that definition.
I don't mean to hijack you thread @brunbjoern!
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You seem bizarrely indignant that cura defaults to brim. Meanwhile I'll present why I think this is correct:
If the part warps off the bed, the user blames the printer.
Even if only 1/20 prints *need* a brim, I think keeping it simple for basic users is what cura default settings should do, so then the brim should stay on.
If you are talking to me then note that I surrendered several messages ago.
Every person that prints, prints differently. I use brim very very rarely. I am more likely to build my own brim onto a part where it is needed and easy to detach rather than have the slicer brim the whole part.
But since you bring it up again. Beginner mode and expert mode. Brim on in the former and off in the latter. Possibly the same with some other settings.
But I don't really care. I surrendered long ago and cast all that bizarre indignation out the door. I'm back to using S3D for most of my printing other than dual extrusion anyway as 3.4 seems incapable of doing the detail work that I rely on...but that is another thread.
And it really doesn't matter, and this I am not so bizarrely indignant about...my UM3 is down hard because of a jammed filament that will not come out of the print core hence the print core will not come out of the assembly it sits in.
Not a happy camper with the quality of my UM3 experience. First printer DOA, second printer down for a couple of days to have slider blocks replaced. Now down for this. In between it stops printing details without stringing. Before that it stops auto leveling. Cura defaults for brim don't really even rank regardless of how bizarre they are!
Will
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I have ordered an UM2+ last night with a roll of ABS filament from Verbatim and am looking forward to give it a try.
I hope it doesn't get too frustrating before getting good prints.
I have had two UM2+'s (sold one and got a UM3) and I did get frustrated trying to print ABS. I got it to work but not before I invested in an enclosure (search this forum for After Market Enclosure for a good discussion) and got good at putting down Klapton tape. I have now given up on ABS in favour of anything else depending on the temperature requirements. I would suggest that the moment you get frustrated with ABS, and I think you might, try one of the alternatives mentioned above. In fact, I would order up an alternative reel now! I love my UM2+ but have lost my love of ABS (developed when I had a Makerbot clone).
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It matters not as I get the same result running on a Windows machine with a fresh copy of 2.4.Not as far as I know.
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I think I have read reports on this forum about issues with Cura that were solved after reinstalling Cura.
Most notably reinstalling Cura does not touch the cura configuration, and most issues have been with the configuration files.
Which is why, on OSX, I also whacked /Library/Application Support/Cura. Is these stuff hidden somewhere else? -
I have an issue that I think started when I upgraded to the December release of firmware for the UM3. Is the previous version available somewhere for me to try a downgrade?
Thanks,
Will
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But I don't use brim very often as it's not required most of the time
My point exactly! If it is not required "most of the time" then why is it a default?!? Yes, I know, it is all about the first time user but then it should be trivial to turn it off (as in through the GUI). Yes, I know, I can turn it off in my custom profiles but I should not need to! I should just be able to use the standard profiles for a standard print and not end up with the extra work of peeling off the brim. And finally, yes, I know that I should check the layers view...but I don't always.
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I had a corrupted Cura 2.4 during the Beta and reinstalled. Just did so again thinking that might be the issue but no joy. I am deleting the application and the Cura folder from /Library/Application Support but am wondering if there are configuration files some where else.
I am SURE this was not happening before I first tried the Beta. I am using the stock profiles with only a change to temperature and speed.
I am happy using S3D for everything else but I need Cura to work for dual extrusion support.
I have not reposted yet on the Cura section as some more testing is underway.
Will
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Here are two more images this time of a test that I did when first getting the printer (orange) versus now (grey).
I was going to repost this to Cura/Firmware but since Cura slices ok for my 2+ it seems like this is the right place for this thread. I hope that @gr5, @labern, @Daid, or @neotko might see this thread and render some advice? I will promise to stop complaining about Brim as that is truly trivial compared to not being able to print tiny details that I used to be able to print!
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Here is another image with a print from Cura 2.4 (center) as well as the ones from S3D (left) and Cura 2.3 (right):
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The S3D print (Center) has no stringing, the 2.3 (Upper) less than the 2.4, and the 2.4 (Right) is unusable. Cura 2.3 print is the red one and is fine. -
Ok, fine! I'll deal with it! In the grand scheme of things it is not that big of an issue! Was just cranky this morning.
My bigger issue is the post I did asking about oozing that suddenly is infesting my UM3!
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The print on the left was sliced by S3D and the one on the right by the latest version of Cura. They are, as nearly as I can tell, done with the same temperature, speed, and retraction settings. I can not prove this without doing a lot of work but I am almost certain this behaviour only began after I upgraded the firmware on the printer and went to the new Cura.
Cura Profile is pretty much default settings for a 'normal' print but for temp at 195 and speed at 50
Here is the G-Code for all four prints that I have done. The S3d settings are at the top of the S3d file.
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I know that I can change this default by editing a config file...but...I am still baffled by why I need to do so? If someone can afford to buy an Ultimaker they should be able to make prints stick without a brim. If they really need one then the corollary is that they will be experienced enough to turn on the option!
I installed the beta of Cura, oops, have to remember the config file. I reinstalled the pre-beta as I was having trouble with the beta, oops, have to remember the config file. I now installed the gold version and, yup, oops, gotta remember the config file! If your default profiles were not as good as they are then this would be less of a problem as I would never print anything without using one of my own profiles (without a bleeding brim) but your default profiles are good. Except for that silly ass default.
Sorry if I sound cranky... I had not changed this setting after installing the new release and had an unwanted brim appear!
If someone wants to change the default look for the file fdmprinter.def.json. When you edit that file search for adhesion_type and change "brim" to "skirt".
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UM3 Unavailable - Unable to accept new print jobs
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Thanks @kmanstudios and @CapableQuad. My Cura Connect seems to be in a weird state. It had my printer listed as a group owner but then it had another printer showing as well (I only have one UM3). When I added the extra printer to my group it started to print! Strangely, I can also send print jobs to the other printer and it also prints even though connect says that it has an issue. So I am fixed but not in any way that I should be! This is not Ultimakers finest in software but I can see the use for it in a production shop once it is polished a little more.
Hopefully someone from Ultimaker will jump in here!
Cheers,
Will