Wisar

Deleted content as it was a duplicate of the above :-o

Colorfabb XT-CF20 (Carbon Fibre) is a bit of a challenge to print with but the finish is matt and is very nice.

Had not but just did...THEY ARE BOTH CRACKED! How did that happen...? It seems to be worse on the side with the lever for the 2nd nozzle. Is this stress induced? I have temporarily applied some cable ties that were the perfect size to not interfere with anything. Will :-o

Well then. It seems like the testers have been identified but if one more were needed I was an early adopter of the Olsson and am always ready to experiment. I have a closet full of filament and will add more at a whim!

Uppbyggnadsläge är på Hemsida kommer snart ????GOOGLE????? Build Mode is on Website coming soon

Just as the title asks...can I buy one somewhere. It seems like most, if not all, of what I have read about it is by people testing it! If it is not for sale any idea when and for how much? Thanks, Wisar

You can, you have to re-calibrate the switching bay location. The reason why this is not per default is to get the maximum build volume. I am not sure what you mean by re-calibrate...my problem is a physical geometry issue of the x-axis rod for the carriage is slipping to the right and then not hitting the switch. If the switch were a tiny bit wider or the rod a tiny bit longer it would still trigger. My fix will be to insert a spacer between the switch and the frame to move the contact point in a little. But why is the rod moving so freely to the right and presumably to only thing stopping it is when it hits the far wall? Can't be good?

I completely understand. But that is currently not the view of Ultimaker, as Ultimaker does not want to offer something until it is a finished solution. I cannot say anything about which cores will come when, as I've seen 3 different timelines already and I'm most likely not allowed to talk about any of them ;-) Given that I have an UM2+ next to my UM3 this is not something that I am losing too much sleep over!

One other thought since you mentioned the belt shredding--how many print hours are on the machine? I usually find around 3000 print hours is a good wear and tear time for replacing belts. I also don't see the blue clip in the printhead. Not sure if I'm just missing it in the shadows, but just wanted to mention it. You may want to go ahead and print some spares if it's missing. Hey, yeah about 2.4k so I guess may be a good time to replace, but I've got everything pretty quiet now. I realised about the clips pretty early on, so was one of the first things I printed, the head now has one, the back needed 2 but it works fine. Only slight noise I have now a tiny slight friction when doing single layer z screw movements. Very much fine tuning now but I'm sure I'll get that resolved with maybe a clean and regrease. Thanks for the heads-up though. This is my first bowden. I am 99.5% sure that there was an extra blue clip in the little box...but always good to print a couple!

Thanks, I had missed the whole Ruby thing but will check them out. I actually love the look of the carbon prints even more than the functionality...going a little faster would not be bad.

I do love the reliability of using the new profiles with the UM3. On the other hand I would love to be able to print some super detailed stuff (or some super fast stuff) on the UM3 even if I had to profile it myself. I guess it is difficult to sell something on one hand that is bullet proof and then also have an offering for a component that is buy but understand it is on you if you have issues? I would sign up for an unsupported core....

Probably a good idea to keep the filled filaments on the left side (UM2+) and leave the UM3 on the right side to "normal" stuff. I have had pretty good luck with the specialty filaments that I have tried though a lot of care and feeding is required. I have a couple of steel nozzles and the trick is slow, slow, slow. Will have to try the .6mm idea. Cheers, Will

As we roll towards the new year is there any news on the addition of different print cores? I have heard the .8 is on deck for early in the year (just gossip) and while I would buy one the .25 is what i really want.

How do we know if a filament is abrasive? With some it is obvious, like carbon fibre based filaments. Bronze filled against a bronze nozzle makes sense as being abrasive. I assume copperfill would be as well? What about various woodfills? I would think they would be ok though I wonder about the risk of clogging a 100 quid print core when I have a UM2+ sitting next to it! It would be nice if the sellers would label filaments as abrasive but if they are doing so I think I am missing it? Thanks for any feedback.

Printer halted with terrible noises! Told me to contact support 'cause of an endstop failure! Not a big deal to fix as one of the axis rods had slipped and was no longer triggering the end stop. I wonder, however, if the endstop switch should be mounted a couple of mm's further away from the case so this can't happen as easily?

No, I generally don't bother with ABS any more. The enclosure/door is just used when I want to control the temperature and avoid any drafts or sudden temp drops. I have the same enclosure and the same comment on ABS. I still have a couple of reels of it but they do not get used and at some point will likely go. The enclosure, on the other hand, is helpful in my drafty man cave for more stable build area temps and faster heatups when using higher bed temps.

When I'm over the honeymoon period of printing lots of things with ridiculous quality I'll probably take down the other side and give that a service too. I have to do the same maintenance to my other UM2+ as I am sure that it needs it. I suspect there are other UM2's out there that could use the same tuneup as well. It would be interesting to see how it prints the test object that I included...if you have the time you might want to give it a go as the gcode is on the SD card. As soon as I get the time I am going to print the torture test, do the above tuneup, and then print it again. Glad you are enjoying the printer!

Unfortunately for me that printer was a bargain as I am the culprit that sold it with a defect! Seriously, glad it sounds like it might be on the mend. It was only making the sound described occasionally when I packed it and I think the ordeal of being sold and packed up may have helped move the frame around. Hopefully this is the case! In the meantime I am doing the same adjustment on my remaining Ultimaker 2+. It will be interesting to hear a) if this did indeed solve the problem and b) if anyone else has the same issue.

Great BTW, don't know this for sure, but I am assuming that Text Edit on OSX probably introduced some line control when I saved the file. Not sure why I did not just do the edit in terminal. Doop.

Can I please get more guidance on what exactly needs to change here? I have tried to make the change as suggested and not gotten it to work. I am sure I am just changing the wrong thing but am struggling. I am going to sound cranky here but why would anyone in their right mind set a default of brim for PLA? PLA sticks just fine! If PVA is being used then brim away...with the PVA! I love the default profiles but having to remember that brim is on every time I switch something is a real pain in the arse! :-) Thanks in advance for helping me! Open the fdmprinter.def.json file and look for the section "adhesion_type" and change the line: - "default_value": "brim", To: - "default_value": "skirt", That's the only change I made to that file and now all the default profiles show skirt as the adhesion type by default. Hmmmm...I am on OSX and when I make that change to the file that is in /Applications/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json it seems to corrupt my setup. I get a dialog box asking me to add a printer and my two printers that were there are no longer! Are you windows or linux? Thanks, Will I'm on a Mac too - I did a fresh install of Cura 2.3.1, found that file inside the app and edited it using Atom. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/176278/fdmprinter.def.json That's the file I'm using - completely stock from the clean install, but with the default changed to skirt. Thanks.....that worked! But it is exactly the same change that I made! I don't get it but am not going to sweat it. Thanks again. Default is now as it should have been in the first place!

Can I please get more guidance on what exactly needs to change here? I have tried to make the change as suggested and not gotten it to work. I am sure I am just changing the wrong thing but am struggling. I am going to sound cranky here but why would anyone in their right mind set a default of brim for PLA? PLA sticks just fine! If PVA is being used then brim away...with the PVA! I love the default profiles but having to remember that brim is on every time I switch something is a real pain in the arse! :-) Thanks in advance for helping me! Open the fdmprinter.def.json file and look for the section "adhesion_type" and change the line: - "default_value": "brim", To: - "default_value": "skirt", That's the only change I made to that file and now all the default profiles show skirt as the adhesion type by default. Hmmmm...I am on OSX and when I make that change to the file that is in /Applications/Cura.app/Contents/Resources/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json it seems to corrupt my setup. I get a dialog box asking me to add a printer and my two printers that were there are no longer! Are you windows or linux? Thanks, Will

Can I please get more guidance on what exactly needs to change here? I have tried to make the change as suggested and not gotten it to work. I am sure I am just changing the wrong thing but am struggling. I am going to sound cranky here but why would anyone in their right mind set a default of brim for PLA? PLA sticks just fine! If PVA is being used then brim away...with the PVA! I love the default profiles but having to remember that brim is on every time I switch something is a real pain in the arse! :-) Thanks in advance for helping me!

For some systems you can, but it still won't fix the issue if your printer is printing from SD. Yeh, I am not sure what I was thinking there. :-o It would be incumbent on the printer firmware to ignore the attempt to connect via USB during a print and I can see the issue there. Starting Cura with an option to enable the USB plugin will be fine for me. At the moment it is just disabled by deletion.

The printer is still available due to my having to relist it as a UK only sale. I know that this may cost me in terms of value returned but I am just not up for the hassle of an international shipment AND the eBay Global Selling Option is CRAP. All the other items are off to their new homes.