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Wisar

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Everything posted by Wisar

  1. I haven't used Brim.. I just make sure the horizontal expansion for support is at least 3MM.. that should fix all possible issues.. That is a good setting. Have done similar with S3D but had not seen that parameter in Cura...or not understood what it was. Thanks for that as I have abandoned S3D unless I absolutely need to place support manually.
  2. I am in the process of making this change to the firmware as I was not able to get the LCD PWM to work as easily as one would expect... It seems that PWM commands are executed by the firmware when ever it feels like it as opposed to in the order encountered. I guess this is part of the look ahead speed up logic but it adds some complexity. I tried using M400 to correct but things still did not seem to work as I expected so I gave up as I knew the fan PWM works but for the pulse. Anyway, thanks for the above pointer.
  3. The brim is actually printed out of PLA every time (aka core 1 material). That's the default setting on my cura. I have never found the brim to be useful for anything other than ABS on a single material print. Is it when using PVA for support that you are finding it helpful? I have noticed that PVA adhesion can be subject to some challenges and I will use it there given that the nuisance of removing it is not a factor!
  4. I will probably do some more rigorous tuning as time allows ... what impressed me so much was how the prints looked WITHOUT doing a lot of work. On the PET...I used the profile for CPE and lowered the temperature to 232 degrees based on an article in here somewhere :-) . The ABS test was done with the ABS profile but the heat reduced by 10 degrees from the profile. Thats all. The ABS was the one that really impressed me as I really tried to get that same level of result on my UM2+ and could not. It is the tiny details on the last layers of a small model that defeated me.
  5. Some more observations after a couple of weeks. Unfortunately I have not really done anything to test the dual extrusion aspect of the printer as it has been working full time on some other workload. I have done a couple of tests, including a small part for a customer order, and all results have been great. It does take time though. I have only done small parts, at 60-100 micron resolution though, and the time difference between a print with support in the same material, and one using PVA as a second material for support, is about 40-50% depending on the model. So an 8 hour print becomes a 12 hour print. Or a long time becomes a longer time. But the advantages of no cleanup, much, much less impact of support on print quality, and being able to print stuff that would be impossible with single material support ... gotta love it. Everything that I have printed so far has come out great. I am currently printing a project using Colorfabb NGEN co-polymer and it is coming out nicely. I have also done some small experiments where I have printed ABS and PET. The ABS printed perfectly on a second attempt where I lowered the print temperature to preserve some fine detail. I have never gotten as good a result on my UM2s with ABS. The part that I printed in PET came out nicely as well. First try and I was able to give the part to a customer as they wanted something bright white and my PET is very white! It is an expensive printer and will continue to get abuse for that fact. It is up to the buyer to decide if the quality is worth the price. It is too early to judge long term reliability but I am assuming that will also be a positive for decision making. Reliability in terms of being able to spit out high quality prints seems pretty darn good! Finally, I hope they get the next version of the firmware out so I can adjust the LED...they are BRIGHT! Wisar
  6. Exactly! I have two um2s that are two years old and they have bright displays!
  7. It was Dorothy that went down! They drop shipped me a new unit and it is working find. NFC has not been an issue though the reader seems sensitive to the location of the reel on the holder. Dorothy had an issue creating a hot spot the new machine did that just fine. Did my first customer order with PVA support on her today. Parts were glamorous.
  8. Being swapped out tomorrow! Reseller very cooperative (3DGBIRE). Probably helped that it had the good graces to die so quickly.
  9. It was worth a shot...but no go. :-( Thanks for the suggestion though. The ironic thing is that the display would be just readable if I could turn off the LEDs...but they are so bright they wash out what little backlight the control panel is emitting.
  10. I have a support ticket open with 3DGBIRE as I suspect this is a hardware failure but wanted to ask for advice here as well since my brand new printer is a bit dead to me now. This morning the display had a dark corner and by this afternoon the entire display was dark to the point of being unreadable. The picture does not do it justice as it is more readable than to the naked eye. Any recommendations other than a new part? Thanks, Will
  11. Thanks. That is exactly what I was looking for. I am assuming that I will be able read the "format" but the coding is something else. I have my RFID reader/writer on my desk ready for a go at it this afternoon or weekend.
  12. This is something that I gave up trying on my UM2 and now UM2+ printers. I had to lower the temperature by 10 degrees from the profile (model on right) but the result is the model on the left with all detail printing as it should.
  13. My filament recognition works on the spools they sent me. Have asked for the format and encoding for their RFID tags as I could then use it on other material. The only problem that I have had is that the printer will not establish a wireless hot spot so I have connected it hard.
  14. I have the capability to write RFID tags...am I correct in assuming that is what identifies a filament spool and if so is the format available?
  15. Version 1.0

    1,797 downloads

    This is my first print from a brand new Ultimaker 3 printer. As in the very first thing after I unboxed it and calibrated it! The model was printed in PLA with PVA support using the High Quality setting in Cura (60 micron resolution). The printer worked flawlessly. Note that the model is not my work but is part of an extensive collection of 1:100 designs and is available on Thingiverse.
  16. Just got my new Ultimaker 3! I must be one of the first in GB as I was #1 in the queue at 3DGBIRE. First impressions are good ones. Unboxing was painless (as you would expect) though the box seemed higher than I remembered from my UM2's. I wondered if the form factor of the printer had changed but that does not appear to be the case. The stuff that comes with the printer has been upgraded a little, you get a real hex driver and some lubricant in more quantity than a sample and yet another glue stick that I will never use. The front panel of the printer is a little different as there is now a slot for a USB stick instead of the SD card. The back of the printer has changed significantly as has the stuff underneath...which means the on/off switch migrated to the right side. Naturally I was reaching around the left side feeling for it! The whole startup process went very smoothly (after the interminable power on wait). It nicely walked me through loading the print head thingy and the reels of filament. I then told it to auto level the bed and it did so...asking me how often I wanted it to do this process. Not sure so I said weekly. Then I asked it to do the X/Y calibration. It was dead on for the Y and needed 3 on the X. I downloaded a fresh version of Cura and fired it up to get a model ready to print. I had a printer running already and the next thing I knew that printer stopped. Why does Cura go out looking for printers and killing whatever is running on them when it starts? Irritating. Anyhows, I found a little model that requires support and sliced it up. This is a tiny little model but I am doing it in the fine mode (60 micron layers) and it is taking forever. Dual extrusion printing is not fast! Remember...at this point all I have done with the printer is to unbox and calibrate it....and then print a 60 micron layer dual extrusion model that is, up to now, working flawlessly! Oh, and the printer seems much quieter than my UM2s. All in all very favorable ... I will post a picture of the final model and hopefully will still be feeling happy!
  17. Hey gr5, it is 'def not grain as I have done the rotation test with the same results...and it works the same with real wood and with MDF! I like the astigmatism though. I think the diode laser does cast a rectangular beam...and that could explain it. I was thinking something mechanical but the printer showed zero evidence when spitting out plastic.On the fan...I suspected that might be the case but did not look at the source code as I really don't want to change anything that would alter printing operations as it is, after all, primarily a printer. It just dabbles in laser cutting (and some plotting). Now my challenge with the LED PWM is the need to preface the laser on and off commands with the M400. I am using a pre-processor though so it is not that hard. Thanks, Will
  18. I have hacked my UM2+ to cut stuff and am pretty pleased with the result though I still have a couple things to iron out. I bought the JTechPhotonics 3.8W laser with their controller / power supply. First a couple of learnings / questions. My first configuration was to use the fan PWM to drive the laser via the M106 command. From a hardware perspective you need to do two things, first you need to get the 24V fan power down to close to the 5V PWM input. Jay, at JTechPhotonics, said the following: "For the voltage on the fans, yes it would be better if they were put down to 5V (or even 12V). The input is isolated, so it should work fine, but it was designed with 5V in mind. I think the high end of the design is rated at 24volts. If you have a way to get it to 5V then I would recommend it, but you probably are fine at 24V. " I did a voltage divider and took it down to close to 5V. Second, I installed a switch so that I could toggle between the fans working or the laser working. There is a slight issue on the firmware side though. At least with my printer there is a spike of voltage when the fan circuit activates. I am assuming this is to help the blades of a fan spin up but have not dug into the code to see. You can see the spike using a meter or just by watching, with glasses of course, the laser turn on. Not at all optimal to have a litle black spot everywhere the laser activates! Is this on all machines? With the above being the case I decided to go the LED PWM route. This is not as clean due to the normal state of the LED being on but I decided to try it anyway. I chose not to use a voltage driver as the supply for the LEDs is under 12V. Same comment about it needing to be switched but this time there are no spikes! There was another problem though. The LED PWM command, M42 S200, seems to get processed as soon as the firmware reads it without waiting for previous commands to be completed! You need to put an M400, wait for everything to be done, command just ahead of it (found that above in the comments on this thread). The issue that I have now, and know this is probably mechanical, but I am getting two completely different cuts on the Y-axis versus the X-axis! I don't think that I am seeing this when I print though I will do some tests today to try and confirm this. I have a couple blog postings with pictures if you care to take a look. I guess the question for you is whether you have seen this before? http://raspberrypirobot.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/yet-more-laser-tuning.html
  19. Please tell me that this is a new feature that came with the upgrade (the ability to upload from the editor)? :-o
  20. That is good news but as I am in the UK I have but one word to say. Hmpfh! ...and...Release Dorothy!
  21. How are things looking at the warehouse? My distributor (3DGBIRE) has told me that they do not have notice yet of when they are getting some printers but that the early buyers (that would include me at #1) would be notified when they do. Hopefully trucks are in the yard getting ready to load?
  22. Since we are speaking of the cores. What is the plan for additional nozzle sizes? Also, are there any recommended best practices around core management such as material segregation? This could get expensive at 95 quid a pop! Finally, are the cores maintainable (either end user or via service) as they are above the price point for a consumable (at least in this man cave)?
  23. Good to see you back in time for the fun! I will be staying on top of 3DGBIRE where I had the first UM3 order in their door. :-o I want to hope for the two side of that estimate not the six side! Wisar
  24. In advance of getting my new printer I have decided to name her Dorothy. So. RELEASE DOROTHY! There is a nice warm place here on the banks of the Thames for her to hang out in rather than some dank and dreary warehouse in the Netherlands. RELEASE DOROTHY!
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