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RichardF

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  1. Starting yesterday, after 2.5 years of use, I started getting the ER02 Heated Bed error. I never had this before. The first time, last night, it was about 15 minutes into a print. This morning I jiggled the wires on the heated bed and then tried heating the bed under the maintenance menu. It seemed OK so I tried again. After this it got about 20 minutes into the print and threw the same error. Next attempt involved removing the heated bed and tightening the screws on the connector (though they did not seem loose). After this, and again checking the bed heating, I tried to print once more, but now it threw the ER02 while heating up. Next I dismantled more of the machine and made measurements. Measured at the circuit board TEMP3 showed 4.78 kohm, about the same as TEMP2 which had no connection. TEMP1, meanwhile, was showing about 104 ohms, as expected. Turning to the heated bed connector, I initially got 4.78 k when measuring across the screws themselves, while the solder pads were showing the expected 104 ohms (it's cold in our house: the heating system is being replaced). These solder pads always showed the same, expected, resistance. The screws were more intermittent: sometimes 104, sometimes 4.78k (which I assume is the resistance on the PCB). I removed the sensor wires from the connector and verified that the resistance at the connector is 104, both solder pads and screws, and at the PCB it's 4.78k. Re-inserting the wires, and screwing them tight, I found that the resistance at the screws was consistently 104, and it was also 104 at the PCB. With this I reassembled and started another print. This time it got about 45 minutes into the print and threw the error again. I'm now at a loss to explain the root cause of this problem. If it's an intermittent connection, why was it good for 2.5 years and suddenly, after several tightenings, showing connection drop-outs? The PT100 seems good -- I always measure the expected value close to it. The problem seems to be around the heated bed connector, but I haven't been able to understand nor fix it. cheers, Richard
  2. I don't think so. (1) I was careful with retraction to avoid this problem; (2) I've checked the filament itself and found no problem of "eating". Reading some other posts I tried reducing the temperature to 195 degrees. Using the "Move filament" control I got nice strings of filament out of the nozzle. See the picture. Using a calliper I measured this at between 0.32 and 0.56 mm diameter. So it seems to flow OK at this temperature. So I had another go at the print. This is what I found: And here is a detail: After this I looked at the filament driver (the entrainure) and, following a video on the Ultimaker site, reduced the tension (white indicator to the highest position), though, to be honest, there was no obvious change. Then I modified the temperature again, to 200 degrees. Watching the machine it seemed OK for the first 10 minutes. Then it started showing signs of under-extrusion again, so I increased the temperature to 205 degrees. It got better, but after leaving it for a while I returned to find this: Obviously I've aborted the print now and I've given up. It's looking like I can't print anything now, at least with this nozzle. As I said, it was a new one. More accurately, it was an unused 3dSolex one bought 2 years ago.
  3. Hi, I've been trying to print a fairly large part for a few weeks now. I started with ColorFabb XT, then tried ColorFabb nGen and finally ColorFabb PLA/PHA. All have suffered from under-extrusion and. at least with the nGen, warping so bad as to make the part unusable (except that it was unusable anyway due to the under-extrusion). The machine is an Ultimaker 2 with Olsson block. During the switch to PLA/PHA I also switched to a brand-new 0,4 mm stainless steel nozzle (I didn't have a brass one) and changed the teflon hot-end isolator for a new one. Settings: nozzle: 0.4 mm stainless steel temperature: 210 degrees layer height 0.2 mm speed: 40 mm/s fan: 100% infill: 100% The object has walls and base 2.4 mm thick. It started OK, including the soldi base and about the first 1 cm of walls. Then it started to show under-extrusion. I tuned the temperature up and down 5 degrees, material flow to 110% and 100% and speed to 80%. However, none of these helped. The majority of the print is completely porous and flexible. Images below. Any ideas?
  4. I'm just starting with this filament (XT CF-20) and have similar set-up. Olson Block and Stainless Steel nozzle. A different size though: it's a 0.4 mm from 3dSolex. However, the problems I have are similar to yours but prevent any usable print. I'm running the temperature at the maximum (260) but I think there's a conductivity issue between the sensor and the SS nozzle so that it's actually running at the coldest end of the range for this material. I think that's why it's so very sticky/viscous. Also, it fails to restart the flow properly after a hole in any vertical wall. See here: I end up with failures in the walls which are weak or break. I've now made 6 prints with this material, with different settings, and none is OK. What settings are you using, and do you have any advice? thanks, Richard
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