Vaz
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Posts posted by Vaz
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You can use 2.85 and 3.0 But you cannot use 1.75
(hope that's clear..)
OK Valcrow, I understand.
Thanks
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2.85 works best for UM. You can also sometimes use 3.0mm filament so long as the tolerance is on the smaller side. You will notice an increase in friction in the bowden if you do. And you will usually need to lower the speed a little bit to compensate. I wouldn't recommend using anything that's >2.95mm or it may get stuck.
But you wouldn't be able to use 1.75mm filament without modification.
for
Also if you DO use a different format be sure to enter the filament diameter into the firmware or Cura (depending on model) so that it calcuates the proper extrusion rates.
Ok Valcrow, so I can use since proceed to appropriate adjustments in the Cura.
Thank you Valcrow
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Filament thickness.
We can use different diameter on UM, or should we just use filament of 2.85?
Thank you.
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I connect the parts with a lighter, and works fine,
I make a clean straight cut, heat the ends and press together,
the trick is to hold it steady until it really cools, then remove the excess material at the sides with a rough file.
Tank you xeno.
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I've never used the netfabb thing on the web - but it's a free service where you upload your model to netfabb - it fixes it - and sends it back to you. You might not like the fix (it might remove most of your model).
Play with all the fix horrible settings and look at the results in slice view. To save time set your layer height temporarily to .5mm or 1mm - just so you can quickly try all 11 combinations of fix horrible (clicking A and B both is redundant so don't do that).
;-)
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Vaz - before printing anything - always look at your model in layer view. I'm 90% sure it is skipping over several layers. Even though they look more or less solid in normal view - (I see some holes in there) I think they are consedered empty/open when slicing. Like didier says, look at it in xray view also and all red spots are a problem. You might be able to fix it simply by checking the "A" box in "fix horrible" settings.
Are you using sketchup by any chance? sketchup tends to make non-solid objects (infinitely thin walls) which are not printable. There are sketchup plugins to test your model for solidness or you can run it through the free web netfabb thingy that may fix your model.
Hello gr5, yes this is a sketchup model.
I will follow your advice and enable the option (A).
In relation to "free web netfabb" you're saying "netfabb Basic"?
This program allows to import, correct and export STL files?
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Hello DidierKlein, thanks for your replay.
This was my first model and is made by myself .
I will download a 3D model and print to see if it runs well.
May you suggest a model to test the printer?
thank you
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I'm still at the beginning, but I already do excellent failures.
What can be causing this?
thank you
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1
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Thanks for your quick reply gr5
Problem solved. He had excessive force in the spring.
thank you
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Hello everyone, this is my first participation in this community, I hope that within a short time I can contribute to answers rather than questions.
I bought a Original Plus in Kit and just finished its assembly. It was not an easy task, did not come with instructions and the only guide is a PDF written in English available on the ultimaker site.
I turned the motor leads to the E1 connector board.
The engine of extrador makes moves to advance and retreat. Do rotations in both directions.
Can anyone help?
Thank's
2.85mm or ???
in Materials & profiles
Posted
OK