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  1. I have a similar problem I just could not got my UM2 Extended with Ollson block upgrade to print proper using the 0.4 nozzle. I used now the 0.6 nozzle with ABS Top Layers 4 Bottom Layers 3 Sides 2 Bed Temp 100 Nozzle temp 230 Print speed outline 65 Print speen infill 70 I increased the material flow to 110%, no improvements I inclreased the temp to 250 - no improvement I reduced the speed to 90% I reduced the temp to 220 Note of these resulted in any ideal improvements, in fact reducing the temp given even worse effect. seems the filament is just not giving the glo
  2. Hi Folks, seems I also just cannot manage to get the settings sorted. Have been playing with the settings for hours now and still not getting closer to the solution. I am trying to print ABS. Looks like when I reduce my speed I get little better results but still not great. I have reduced the speed to 60 then got better on finishing the one part. When removing the parts I noticed the layers are also not fused together well either. and the part is coming apart completely. On my Mendel90 I get far better results with more or less the same settings - only diff is I printed on the Mendal90 at 6
  3. i can yes. even the sides tear part of the sides off.
  4. Thanks gr5 I did that, but still having the problem that the plastic seems not to melt into each layer. Even though I am printing at 250 nozzle temp. can it be due to poor quality filament or is there still something wrong with my settings?
  5. Well my prints starting to improve after I saved all the new settings to EEprom. I added a door to the printer and also when printing longer prints, cover the top with a platic bag. Here's a photo of my printer and also the handle I printed today for the door. The handle was printed at normal settings (layer height = 0.1) I then tried to print somthing with a larger footrint and needed a new cover for my phone anyway. So I printed this cover using ABS: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:897683 I found the base was quite solid and rigid, but the sides easily torn apart. The cover was printed wi
  6. Well my controller is UM2 so I guess I stick to UltiGcode. I calibrated the X, Y, Z axis as well as the extruder using pronterface. The movements was finally spot-on. Funny though, I now generated a new test print (the same 20mm cube) and it still print 16.6mm does not make sence to me. I also had to reduce my extrusion feed to 70% as it was totally over extruding - Or I will have to increase my speed. I was printing at 245 degrees, 60mm/s and .1 layer. You will see at the lower part the excess filament and on top there is still signs of excess filament. Also the center bubbles out a bit.
  7. Thanks for the feedback. I noticed on the Gcode Flavor I only have the following options: UltiGCode Reprap (Marlin/Sprinter) Reprap (Volumetric) Makerbot BFB Mach3/LinuxCNC
  8. gr5, on the video you posted earlier. what is the point of it, meaning what count should the be optimal count. because the filament can melt anything from let say 200 and up. but it does not say 200 will give the best quality. and on the other scale, 250 may be too hot for slow printing. I am just trying to get a understanding or a golden rule for printing ABS. Another question: should I consider adding a door om my UM2 extended. smaller parts should print fine, but long prints seems to warp. The last issue is making sure cura is configured perfect. please comment on my settings:
  9. Hi gr5 As for the update of my profile - thanks for that - I do not mind! I will most definitely calibrate the axis. I basically have only ABS and want to print 99% ABS. The only reason why I started with PLA, is it seems to print easier. But most of the stuff I want to print will be ABS components anyway and is all filament I have except the half spool PLA. I also use pronterface for the comms with the printer.
  10. Will upload the the dxf files later no problem
  11. I just tested it, I connected Simplified3D and defined the printer as Ultimaker. I then set the X Axis to move 100mm and meeasure. it only moved 60mm. the same with the Y Axis. here is my steps per min settings in my firmware. {78.74,78.740,200,282}
  12. Well, I am living in Windhoek, Namibia. It seems the PLA prints now is getting quite good and I am happy with the progress. I then tried to print ABS - and had to reduce my nozzle temp down to 200 and the feed rate to 70%. is still not perfect and definitely have signs of overheating/over extruding. What I did find is that the cube I tried to print is 16.5mm instead of 20mm. If seen a few comments on the forums that one need to scale in cura. My question is- should I not try to calibrate marlin. my X and Y axis steps per minute is 78.74. The width and height of my printer is standard t
  13. Hi gr5. Thanks for the reply. I will most check the temp test as per the video you mentioned. as for the fans, well yes I have 2 fans blowing down. I also checked that. What I did was to manually set the fan to 100% as the print begins as well. Si the fans are the normal fans running at 100%. The belts are normal lengths and are quite tight. What I did found from time one of the belt spools come loose slightly and I was thinking of using locktight to make prevent this from being a constant problem. As for your recommendation on the that top cube - I am missing you an that one - could you
  14. Well, The current setting for Cura: minimum layer time is set to 5 sec. I printed at 205 degrees. I will reduce the temp as well to see how this works out.
  15. Hi everyone! Well my DIY UM2 Extended are printing but the quality is not as expected. I also tried a new feeder (youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two). I started to print PLA with Cura Normal settings and the result was poor. I then slowly reduced the feed rate to 95%, then to 80% and eventually end with 75%. You can see on the images it still looks like either over extrude or getting too hot. The fan speed was 100% from the start. I can continue to play some more but thought you guys might be able to fast track finding my solution.
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