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  1. As an architect, I have to deal with this problem all the time. Mostly, it´s a problem in how the architectural software works: the model has too many details, the *.stl file that it creates is not watertight and with a very high mesh complexity. As a result, boolean operations doesn't use to work. I have two different Ideas about how it could a plugin work with this situation, but I can't write code and I cannot test it. Anyway, the exported *.stl files use to have such a poor quality, that I think that the problem must be solved directly from the architectural software itself, with a clea
  2. If you want/can You can send me the file, and I can try in Rhino
  3. Hi! That´s a question about an issue I am having with Cura. The thing is that I must print again a piece that I already printed few months ago. When I printed it, I only had a 0.4mm Nozzle, but now I have a 0.8 and I want to use it because the print time is shorter. While I uploaded the file to Cura and change the settings to a 0.8 Nozzle, I realize that depending of the Nozzle diameter, Cura changes the supports. I was wondering if it is a software bug, because I don´t have a clue why Cura does it. Supports 0.4 Nozzle - Layer 1 Supports 0.8 Nozzle - Layer 1 Supports 0.4 Nozzle -
  4. Version 1.0


    To improve the CNC Router and not just to drill stuff, I also wanted to cut materials like cardboard, vinyl, paper, etc. Before to buy a lasercut, I did find in Internet a very interesting tool to transform the Spindle into a cutting machine. I wanted to buy the knife tool, but my spindle collet is 8mm, and most of the tools I saw doesn´t fit on it, so I decide to make my own, and after some failed prototypes and test, I made one that until now, after several test it works just great!. The blade can be coupled in two different positions, with a cut depth of 6mm or 10mm. Component list
  5. As @Nicolinux said, is not easy. You will need to fix and modify your file to make it printable as you wish. Is a tipical problem with architectural models, because the software doesn't make you to draw it to be 3d printed in a 1:100 scale, but to draw it with a 1:1 definition, making imposible to achieve a nice and clean miniature model. I use to clean up the models with Rhino, because when the model has been cleaned up, I can merge everything as a single solid and test the mesh if it has open faces and repair it. But it takes time.
  6. Hi! Unfortunately the same setup may not work the same in all cases. The above setup with 45C, it worked out with a kind of enclosure, that means, that to keep a higher temp in the printing area is easier as without enclosure. As a result, the bed temperature can be smaller. If you don't have a enclosure, and the room temperature is kind of average (20C), you will need a higher bed temperature than 45C to keep the nylon on the bed without warping, besides to print with a brim.
  7. Thanks for your reply @owen and @avogra, I just found out, that for XT white with a 0.4 Nozzle, fans on at 100% just doesn´t work at all, but with a 0.8 Nozzle it work just great. At least for my UMO+
  8. Hi All, I have a situation here with a new Colorfabb XT white spoon that just arrived today. The new spoon is a big one, a 2200g. That´s because I had a great experience with this filament and I decide to buy the big one!. I use Cura and I have print profiles for different filaments and Nozzles, so I don´t have to configure it every time I change the filament. Right now I am printing with XT white with the profile that was working great before. But now, with the new spoon, it just doesn´t work. The settings for my UMO+ are: Nozzle: 245°C Bed: 65°C Fan: on (100%) Speed: 50mm/s Now wi
  9. Very nice printing! What about layer adhesion? Without drying looks not so dramatic like 618. In compare to Bridge it´s easier to print with?. Which print settings did you use?, for example layer height, speed, nozzle and bed temp.?
  10. Hi! The reason why you get under-extrusion with the fans on, could be because Nylon gets cold faster than PLA. If you have the fans on, it could clogg inside the nozzle because the Nylon gets to cold to go through, that's why is better to print with fans off. The bubbling you have is because of moisture. Moisture is a very critical issue printing with nylon because every bubble is a spot you get on your printing, making the printed object much weeker and fragile. If you keep the filament dry, you could get nice prints with nylon, incredible strong and still flexible, depending of the infill
  11. Hi all, After a while dealing with Nylon filament due to several projects, I finally found a sytem printing that works really well for me and my UMO+. I just wanted to share it with the community. The filament I´ve used is: - Taulman 618 - Taulman Bridge The easiest one to print with is the Taulman Bridge: - Less warping - Better bed adhesion - Less air humidity absorption But with the 618 it´s also possible to print with. After my experience, once I was able to stick it to the Heated Bed, the most critical situation I had to deal with was the moisture. It was really a pain in the
  12. That´s really cool @jameshs I like your picture with the staircase, is a nice example that shows how useful models are, helping to understand rooms. I guess that sometime, someone will develop a plug-in to help us simplifying models for 3d printing. Until that day comes, we can only be creative to export the model and as you say, to ´wrap it´
  13. I am an architect, and I always used to work in my projects with physical models. I just think that it´s easier to understand anything if you can have it in your hands, touch it and see it from all possible angles. With the develop of 3d software you are able to make a virtual building with as much elements as you want to draw. It´s a incredibly powerful tool not only to show the projects, but to control costs, materials, etc. But developing a project so deeply, means that it´s difficult to find extra time to make a physical model, and also is a shame to grab the 2d plans and start cutting c
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