Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

2,810 profile views
  1. As an architect, I have to deal with this problem all the time. Mostly, it´s a problem in how the architectural software works: the model has too many details, the *.stl file that it creates is not watertight and with a very high mesh complexity. As a result, boolean operations doesn't use to work. I have two different Ideas about how it could a plugin work with this situation, but I can't write code and I cannot test it. Anyway, the exported *.stl files use to have such a poor quality, that I think that the problem must be solved directly from the architectural software itself, with a clean up plugin to 3d print or something like that.
  2. If you want/can You can send me the file, and I can try in Rhino
  3. Hi! That´s a question about an issue I am having with Cura. The thing is that I must print again a piece that I already printed few months ago. When I printed it, I only had a 0.4mm Nozzle, but now I have a 0.8 and I want to use it because the print time is shorter. While I uploaded the file to Cura and change the settings to a 0.8 Nozzle, I realize that depending of the Nozzle diameter, Cura changes the supports. I was wondering if it is a software bug, because I don´t have a clue why Cura does it. Supports 0.4 Nozzle - Layer 1 Supports 0.8 Nozzle - Layer 1 Supports 0.4 Nozzle - Complete Supports 0.8 Nozzle - Complete Thanks!!
  4. Version 1.0


    To improve the CNC Router and not just to drill stuff, I also wanted to cut materials like cardboard, vinyl, paper, etc. Before to buy a lasercut, I did find in Internet a very interesting tool to transform the Spindle into a cutting machine. I wanted to buy the knife tool, but my spindle collet is 8mm, and most of the tools I saw doesn´t fit on it, so I decide to make my own, and after some failed prototypes and test, I made one that until now, after several test it works just great!. The blade can be coupled in two different positions, with a cut depth of 6mm or 10mm. Component list: - 2x bearings with 8mm inner diameter - 1x 8mm x 50mm rod - 2x collar - 9x M3 30mm screws with nuts and washers - 2x M3 16mm screws with nuts and washers - Blades I spend like 30€ on components, but that´s because I bought more than I needed, just to have spare parts, and the 3D printed parts, cost like 2€ with a 2,2kg Colorfabb XT Spoon.
  5. As @Nicolinux said, is not easy. You will need to fix and modify your file to make it printable as you wish. Is a tipical problem with architectural models, because the software doesn't make you to draw it to be 3d printed in a 1:100 scale, but to draw it with a 1:1 definition, making imposible to achieve a nice and clean miniature model. I use to clean up the models with Rhino, because when the model has been cleaned up, I can merge everything as a single solid and test the mesh if it has open faces and repair it. But it takes time.
  6. Hi! Unfortunately the same setup may not work the same in all cases. The above setup with 45C, it worked out with a kind of enclosure, that means, that to keep a higher temp in the printing area is easier as without enclosure. As a result, the bed temperature can be smaller. If you don't have a enclosure, and the room temperature is kind of average (20C), you will need a higher bed temperature than 45C to keep the nylon on the bed without warping, besides to print with a brim.
  7. Thanks for your reply @owen and @avogra, I just found out, that for XT white with a 0.4 Nozzle, fans on at 100% just doesn´t work at all, but with a 0.8 Nozzle it work just great. At least for my UMO+
  8. Hi All, I have a situation here with a new Colorfabb XT white spoon that just arrived today. The new spoon is a big one, a 2200g. That´s because I had a great experience with this filament and I decide to buy the big one!. I use Cura and I have print profiles for different filaments and Nozzles, so I don´t have to configure it every time I change the filament. Right now I am printing with XT white with the profile that was working great before. But now, with the new spoon, it just doesn´t work. The settings for my UMO+ are: Nozzle: 245°C Bed: 65°C Fan: on (100%) Speed: 50mm/s Now with those settings, the print delaminates itself after de second layer (when the fans are on). The first layer, without fans works just great, but then it´s a disaster. Now is printing with those settings: Nozzle: 250°C Bed: 65°C Fan: off Speed: 50mm/s At the moment it looks good. Actually, meanwhile everything works fine, I don´t care wich settings should I use , but I am confused about. Did someone had ever the same issue?. Thanks!
  9. Very nice printing! What about layer adhesion? Without drying looks not so dramatic like 618. In compare to Bridge it´s easier to print with?. Which print settings did you use?, for example layer height, speed, nozzle and bed temp.?
  10. Hi! The reason why you get under-extrusion with the fans on, could be because Nylon gets cold faster than PLA. If you have the fans on, it could clogg inside the nozzle because the Nylon gets to cold to go through, that's why is better to print with fans off. The bubbling you have is because of moisture. Moisture is a very critical issue printing with nylon because every bubble is a spot you get on your printing, making the printed object much weeker and fragile. If you keep the filament dry, you could get nice prints with nylon, incredible strong and still flexible, depending of the infill %. Which kind of Nylon do you use?
  11. Hi all, After a while dealing with Nylon filament due to several projects, I finally found a sytem printing that works really well for me and my UMO+. I just wanted to share it with the community. The filament I´ve used is: - Taulman 618 - Taulman Bridge The easiest one to print with is the Taulman Bridge: - Less warping - Better bed adhesion - Less air humidity absorption But with the 618 it´s also possible to print with. After my experience, once I was able to stick it to the Heated Bed, the most critical situation I had to deal with was the moisture. It was really a pain in the ass for me, because I live in a very wet place and keeping the filament dry it´s a huge challenge. That´s the difference between having a dry filament or not: I use to dry it in two different ways that works pretty well: - Summer: Put the filament inside a transparent tupperware and leave it under the sun. During the night, put rice in the tupperware. - Winter: Leave the filament inside the same tupperware near of the heating (radiator, fireplace) and if you are lucky, in a sunny day, don´t hesitate to leave it under the sun. As I said, for me is easier to print with Nylon Bridge because it absorbs less humidity. Because is more flexible than 618, what I do is to play with the Infill % and Shell Thickness due to have a more rigid print or a more flexible one. I must say that I like it because is a very versatile filament: the same object with different settings can have a lot of different mechanical properties but keeping and excelent resistance. Those are my favourite settings for mechanical parts: Hope it can help someone to deal with this material. Initially I prepared those sheets for me, but I think it will be nice to share it with the community. This is my last project printed with Nylon Bridge:
  12. That´s really cool @jameshs I like your picture with the staircase, is a nice example that shows how useful models are, helping to understand rooms. I guess that sometime, someone will develop a plug-in to help us simplifying models for 3d printing. Until that day comes, we can only be creative to export the model and as you say, to ´wrap it´
  13. I am an architect, and I always used to work in my projects with physical models. I just think that it´s easier to understand anything if you can have it in your hands, touch it and see it from all possible angles. With the develop of 3d software you are able to make a virtual building with as much elements as you want to draw. It´s a incredibly powerful tool not only to show the projects, but to control costs, materials, etc. But developing a project so deeply, means that it´s difficult to find extra time to make a physical model, and also is a shame to grab the 2d plans and start cutting cardboard or whatever with a cutter when you have a nice beautiful detailed 3d model in your computer. I just thought was very stupid to have so an accurate virtual model and don´t be able to transfer it to the real world... until I heard about 3d printing. I had a lot of expectations, and I was convinced I found the perfect tool to complement the 3d virtual model: the 3d real model. I must say that in the short time I have my printer, I was not able to print a single proper building prototype, just because the software I work with (archicad and allplan) is not designed for 3d printing. They are so accurate, a 1:1 scale, that so many details makes just a mess in a 1:100 or 1:200 model. They are also not clean files to 3d print with. That means I need a lot of post production time to get something respectable. Meanwhile, I use the printer with Rhino+Grasshopper to design spare parts, to fix things, to experiment or just to make another kind of projects or prototypes wich has nothing to do with my initial purpose. I have to say that despite I am a little bit dissapointed, I discovered a fascinating technology, very versatile, that is opening my mind in a complete new way.
  • Create New...