BrayChristopher

Here is a link to my set up. My boss didn't like oven bag I had clipped over the front. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17521-enclosure?amp%3Bsort=&page=1#reply-158697 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-extended-enclosure

I don't have a UM3, but it is probably a metal foam heat sink. http://www.electronicproducts.com/Thermal_Management/Heat_Sinks_and_Thermal_Materials/Metallic_foam_heatsink_is_beginning_of_passive_cooling_revolution.aspx http://www.versarien-technologies.co.uk/

I know the UM3 has better heat sinks on the electronics, but I would still make sure they can breathe really well. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/26114-dramatic-layer-shifts?page=1&sort=#reply-162078 https://ultimaker.com/en/community/26114-dramatic-layer-shifts?page=1&sort=#reply-163941 This is pretty cheap "insurance" that might help prolong the life of the electronics and save some headaches down the road. As for the enclosure, here is what I ended up with. It is kind of a mash up of different peoples' concepts. You might want to look for a Top Cover concept based on 1/8" acrylic. The 1/4" acrylic was expensive. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17521-enclosure?page=1&sort=#reply-158697 You might also want to put your printer on a turn table since it seems to be boxed into a corner.

This would be a great thing for new owners to know about when they first get their printer. After you cook your PCB, it is a bit too late. Owners could help prevent this issue right out of gate by: - Turning down the amperage - Adding riser feet - Put the printer on a wire rack shelf - Add active cooling of your choice - If you are going to enclose the printer, don't enclose the WHOLE printer. Only enclose the print area. Ultimaker could help prevent this issue by: - Making customers aware of it in the set up guide - Reducing the amperage in the firmware - Perforating the electronics enclosure more - Adding some "breather" holes on the side panel where the electronics are - Add heat sinks to the electronics and/or steppers* - Add active cooling* *Some of these ideas add cost and that is a problem. You can't just keep adding cost... then it becomes the UM3. (Does the UM3 have active cooling on the PCB?) But some of these ideas add next to ZERO cost. Changes could be made gradually as the inventory cycles.

HA! I had a similar situation.

Riser feet for easier "breathing". https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-big-feet or these https://www.youmagine.com/designs/3d-printer-feet-71d19cd6-4955-4abf-a8ae-50564997c580 Active cooling. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-coolboard-duct-for-control-board-cooling I bought the parts for this, but ending up just using a clip on desk fan. Some day I will probably install it.

I had some similar random shifting. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/22908-shifted-print But it sounds like you checked EVERYTHING already. I think my problem was a sticky rod, but you wipe your down every week, so that can't be it. I took the internal motor covers (white sheet metal parts) out of the printer to let the motor "breathe" a little easier. For long prints, I also aim a desk fan at the electronics underneath printer. Any chance it could be a slicer problem. I doubt it, but you have ruled out a lot of other causes.

Even if I couldn't use the dual extrusion feature, I would love to have the new print head module. My biggest complaint with the Ultimaker 2 is how hard it is to change out the PTFE coupler. I could be wrong, but it looks like the new head makes this very easy.

YES!

To be fair to the oven bag, it is rated for 375f (190c). Acrylic has a melting temp of 320f (160c). Just saying. The bag does look super ghetto.

No offense, I just want to understand. What features of your setup make it safer than another?

I discovered a local Fab Lab and decided to use that as an excuse to do some laser cutting. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-extended-enclosure I think I am going to need to put a sticker on the door so I don't forget it is there and run into it. I am not a big fan of the cost of this setup. It was about $80 worth of acrylic. But my boss really hated the oven bag.

OK. I may have found the problem. After printing two more successful PLA prints and another (different model) Semi-Flex print... the printer completely freaked out. The printer started clicking like crazy. Not stepper clicks. The belt was skipping. I killed the print, but it was still trying to home the head and the belt was still skipping, so I had to kill the power. The rear "X" linear rod was sticky in the middle of it. I have no idea why. I wiped down all of the linear rods with acetone and then applied a bit of sewing machine oil. This might be completely unrelated. I doesn't make any sense that this problem would have caused two 36 hour prints to glitch at the same height. But whatever.

Done and done. Stupid covers.

The GRAY part is full scale PLA. The same scale as the RED and BLACK parts. (I never took a picture of the half scale PLA part). The PLA print took about 19 hours. The Semi-Flex prints took about 36 hours each. Yeah, I wish. But is just isn't practical to sit and watch it.

The full scale PLA version came out fine. 19 hours. The stepper motors are hot, but I've printed longer (48+ hour) prints before. Maybe need to add some heat sinks. I think my next step is to try the Semi-Flex again with slightly different settings or try Cura.

I printed a half scale PLA version and it came out perfect. Now I am in the midst of printing a full scale PLA version to see if I get same shift. Hopefully it doesn't do anything too crazy in the middle of the night.

Here is my second attempt. I slowed the print down a little and I reduced the amps to the XY motors. And it still shifted at the same height! It did shift a little more this time. Since it shifted at the same height, I am now thinking that this is an issue with the slicer. Also, when the print finished, the bed did not lower and the downward fans stayed on (all night). I am going to post this question to the S3D forum as well.

I have a LONG 30+ hour print going. The material is semi-flex. I sliced it in S3D. But it shifted mid print. Boo. It looks like it is still stuck in place on the bed. Everything looks fine and normal in the slicer preview. I know a lot of people have asked about this already and step one seems to be "check all of the set screws on the pulleys". But if the pulley set screw was loose, wouldn't it be shifting all over the place? Not just once? I have a fan blowing on the controller board. Any ideas other than the set screws. I will check them when the print is done.

Nozzle cleaning pad like on the Lulzbot. And a feature in the slicer that allows you to clean off the nozzle every X layers. This would be nice for very long prints where stuff can accumulate on the nozzle.

I wish there was an easier way to inspect and change out the PTFE coupler.

PTFE coupler! Bet you a beer. If everything has been working great for a long time and you haven't changed anything (including filament brand) then it might be that pesky PTFE coupler. It is the hardest thing to inspect, so it is always the last. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/250-disassembly https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17279-i2k-insulator-duptef-couplers http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um.html

Does this only happen with a specific print job? If you print a "simple" model does the vibration stop? I experienced some crazy vibrations when using the GRID or TRIANGLE infill patterns (Simplified 3D). I will probably never use those infill patterns again.

Yes. Take the fan shroud off. Like Labern said, ease the temp up. Use needle nose pliers to pull the blob off. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/4285-fail

I've got the I2K insulator in there, so that is why the gap loos too big. I do have the original spring in there and it is TIGHT. I like the idea of a spring because it adjusts to fit. I should look on McMaster for a shorter or lighter duty sprint.