Jump to content

Armfielding

Dormant
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Armfielding

  1. OK i did the continuity test. Here is the video. You cant see in the video...but i had someone press the switch twice during the test. As you can see it was beeping even when the switch was not pressed and kept beeping whilst being switched. So it appears i have a stuck switch (internal to the switch as it still clicks). What next? A new switch?
  2. The head does move...watch the video...but it only moves away from the home position by a small amount each time i press home head.
  3. How would i do this check? Disconnect the switch and put your meter onto the Continuity Beeper setting. measure between the 2 wires and switch the switch. your meter should only beep when the switch is pressed in. If you don't have a meter you can use a battery and a light and connect them all in series. when you push in the switch the light should go on. Do you mean to disconnect the switch from the motherboard? Or just take the screws out from the top of the switch? What end am i measuring the wires ...the motherboard end or the switch end?
  4. Thanks...but the head wont home back along the x axis by itself.
  5. Someone suggested that the x switch may be stuck. How would i "unstick" this?
  6. I dont understand...the pulley systems seem OK. Is there another possible solution?
  7. It all appears tight and moving...no slippage..just doesnt want to even try and go home left along the X axis. Here is a another video.
  8. OK i've chcked again. Both motors are working. The head just wont head home once it hits the back wall. Both motors appear to work. The head just wont go left (home) once it hits the back wall. If i press "home head" the head just skips a bit to the right. Both belts look and feel super tight. Can i add another video or photo to help with the analysis?
  9. You are correct only one of the pulleys (Closest to the feeder) is working. How do i fix this? Thanks, A
  10. You are correct only one of the pulleys (Closest to the feeder) is working. How do i fix this? Thanks, A
  11. Yes both back and left clicks are working. I can move the head manually when the UM2 is turned off to home position and I get both clicks ..one for the back one for the side. The head will not move by itself to the home position. It moves all the way to the back and each push of the "home head" button just bounces it along like in the video.
  12. Hi All, My UM2 will no longer home its head instead it will just move slightly towards the back right every time i press home head in the maintenance window. Here is a video below to explain a bit better. Please help! Thanks, Adam
  13. Hi There, Thanks again for the help. May i ask why my location is important? I move reguarly and could be anywhere from week to week from NYC to Colombia (SA) London or Sydney Australia. Which one would you prefer?
  14. Nope you guys have both been great and clear in your reply. It was the 2mm Hex tool i was seeking.. Thanks alot i'm off to print an a new hand for some kid in need! (hopefully!)
  15. "No need to remove the screws that hold the board in place. You can easily plug the new sensor in with the board in place. Putting the board back is a pain in the ass. I usually use the old sensor as a pulling line for the new sensor. The only somewhat problematic area is the turn around the feeder, that might take a bit of massaging to get it through but if you pull it with the sensor first it's not nearly as problematic as if you pull it with the plug first." Thanks for this advice...block and sensor dones as suggested. However can you explain how i unplug the old sensor and plug the new one in ? The UM2 does not come with a tool for unscrewing the 2 screws underneath the board and i have run out of options. On a side note...i cant believe i have been working on an underextrusion problem for almost a month after using a wood filament. Cleaned (atomic method 50+ times, replace nozel.......rebuilt feeder ....destroyed sensor...pay stupid $$ for a new one , can't install... how do ultimaker ever expect to go mainstream when even someone who is brave enough to disassemble their UM2 is faced with problem after problem...which UM then charges a F&%^ Shi%^ load for. ) Pissed as you can tell after spending more than 2K on a printer which fails at every turn and then i am charged through the nose to fix problem after problem. I really loved my UM2 for the first few weeks....but this is a joke. End rant...repeat question However can you explain how i unplug the old sensor and plug the new one in ? Thanks. Adam
  16. Thank you so much. I'll give it a try soon and let you know. I'll also update my country....manana!
  17. Hi All, My temperature sensor left the metal casing inside the nozzle block when i tried to replace the nozel ( a common issue i hear with the UM2). So i ordered a hot end kit (wow they are seriously expensive for such a common problem!) and now need to replace the sensor. What is the easiest way to get access and plug this sensor cable into the UM2? Also what can i do to make sure i don't damage this sensor cable if i need to remove it again later? Thanks, Adam
  18. Thanks all. I had the exact same problem with the temp sensor getting stuck in the block. I now have a useless nozzle with the metal casing of the sensor stuck inside. So i ordered a new sensor and now am having a little trouble reconnecting it. Where do i recconect? Do i need to completely unasseamble walls etc of the UM2? Or is there a simple way to remove the old sensor and add a new one (im ok putting the sensor in the heat block...its the other end im having trouble with. Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...