Remy

We even have room on the core eeprom to store how much filament was printed with it. True forgot to add that. It says the meters used too. That would be awesome info to have. Is there any data yet on how long the cores are supposed to last? E.g. XX:XX hours printing or X material extruded? If so, it would be extra nice if the core reported this to the printer so Cura or the printer's LCD could remind the user that it's about time to change out the core.

@neotko for the win! This is exactly the info I was looking for, thank you!

I could just be missing something (usually glaringly obvious in my case ) but I have not been able to determine how/if the printer still logs runtime stats and how to access if so. On UM2/+ models it was under MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED but there appears to be no comparable option in the new UM3 menu. Any thoughts? Am I just missing something right in front of my face?

I'm sorry that I missed this thread, @Bobr. It's been a busy week. I'm very sorry that we were unable to provide a lead time for the BB Print Core. We have them on order, but aren't able to provide a ship date at this time. Since the UM3 is a brand-new product, we would rather provide realistic information instead of false lead times. I apologize for any trouble this may have caused. Thanks @gr5 and @fbrc8-erin for stepping in here. Please let me know if there's anything further we can do. We're still learning on the UM3 as well, but we are always happy to help work with you to find the best solution. Since Erin and gr5 are here helping out (thank you!) you should be in good hands.

@ultiarjan It's good to hear they plan to make it available separately because the old feeder is a big point of contention for a lot of users. It would help avoid a lot of the grinding/jam issues that can require disassembly with the old mechanism. Fingers crossed this is soon, will make my life and a lot of Ultimaker users' lives a lot easier

I've seen that issue happen a couple of times, luckily it's a pretty easy fix once you figure out what's going on. Glad to hear you were able to find the problem and get it working If in the long run the issue recurs or you can't secure the gear on the stepper well enough on your own, you should be able to get a replacement from fbrc8, which is Ultimaker's US warranty provider. I've seen them replace the part for this issue before as it was originally a design flaw and not the user's fault. I'd contact the reseller you bought the upgrade kit from or email fbrc8 directly to see about this. Thanks, I wish I did own all the Ultimakers listed in my profile! Truth is I only work with them at a UM reseller here in the US. One day I'll hopefully have an Ultimaker in my home office too though

From what I've heard, Ultimaker has specifically prohibited selling or providing warranty Plus feeders separately to users who don't have a Plus machine or the upgrade kit. If you want the new feeder you'll have to get the whole upgrade kit. Can't see why it would make much difference if the feeder came separate though?

Couple of questions first: What type of printer do you have (UMO/+, Ultimaker 2/Extended or Plus version)? You should also add this to your profile so it's easier to get help and advice from everyone on the forums :)How many printing hours have you logged? You can check this by navigating to MAINTENANCE>ADVANCED menu and clicking 'Runtime stats' near the bottom. It's sounding like you might have some wear in the hot end. If it's a regular 2 or UMO/+, the PTFE coupler will wear over time and need to be replaced. (This will probably happen eventually with Plus models but the new TFM part they have installed is more durable.) Usually this is between 200-300 print hours, but if you're printing materials like ABS or CPE this can happen faster than that. When the PTFE starts wearing down, you get heat creep or the filament can get snagged on the PTFE as it deforms and will have a hard time getting through the hot end to reach the nozzle. This affects flow and results in under extrusion. You might also have a bed leveling problem if you have a really thin brim. Pictures of your failed print/brim would be nice if you have them You can't use Cura to set temperatures on an Ultimaker machine profile. The temperatures are set in the firmware automatically. You can set up or customize the material profile settings by going to the MATERIAL>SETTINGS menu and clicking 'Customize' I think it's called. There you can set the nozzle temp to whatever you'd like for that material profile (e.g. PLA default is 210 C, but if you want to use 220 C for example you can change that to the default for the PLA profile). *Edit: Sorry, I hadn't caught the part you said you did this already. I would try a factory reset, then changing the settings again using the printer LCD. You should also update your firmware to the latest version if you haven't already. Otherwise if you really want to use Cura to set it, you need to lie to Cura and tell it you have a 3rd-party machine and set everything up for your "new" machine manually e.g. build volume etc. I think the printer LCD will then give you a message when you try to print gcode that you generated like that, something along the lines of "Settings in the gcode will override the firmware."

It's a little hard to tell what you mean, and the photos don't really show anything out of the ordinary to me. Could you post more photos of the part itself or the specific area that's the problem? Though from what you described it sounds like your print could be 'leaning' which could be a hardware problem. Have you checked to make sure all the pulleys on the machine are tightened and not slipping anywhere? Usually the ones that are most prone to slipping are on the XY axis rods. I usually print PLA at 215-220 C (mostly because I print fast/large layer heights and I'm lazy - if you use finer resolutions or slower speeds you should be looking at a range between 190-210 C) with a bed temp of 60 C (or 65 C, if the air conditioning is on or the window is open). With colorfabb I was using 230 C. Not very impressed with their PLA/PHA as it seems to print thickly, very rough and require higher nozzle temps than the Ultimaker stuff does. The yellow in your pics looks a lot better than the white I was working with though.

I agree with @tommyph1208 that increasing your nozzle temp by 5-10 C should do the trick. Best of luck, glad to hear your customer was satisfied!

For thicker layers (lower resolution) you will want to increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10 C and slow down the print speed. This is to help the material continue to flow properly. This is from 3DVerkstan: "To figure out how fast you're trying to print you simply multiply your nozzle diameter with the layer height and speed. So for example, if you're printing with 0.2mm layers at 60mm/s you would do: 0.4*0.2*60 = 4.8mm 3/s." This shows how much plastic you're trying to extrude per second. Cura also does this for you if you hover over the 'print speed' field. When trying to force more plastic through the nozzle you want to allow physics to have a chance at it

Hi Adolfo, First off, welcome to the community I downloaded one of your models and set it up in Cura 15.04.5. The question I have is - why do you rotate your model to print on its side rather than on the flat base? If you print your models instead with the flat base facing downwards, you'll have better quality overall and can reduce the amount of supports needed. Just my $0.02. Anyway, after I loaded your model in I checked layer view and it seems to be fine. I would guess the problem is the supports needed when you try to print it on its side. Too many, or too thin for the nozzle to make? I'm not sure. But it looks like it will work fine standing upright on the flat base. Here's a screenshot: Hope this helps!

Wow, that's a lot of spare parts If I had the funds I would swipe this from you in a second!

@peetersm That's a shame :OThe old sockets were incredibly useful. I think using a socket wrench to attain right amount of torque will probably go a long way towards resolving material leaks and seepage. For the time being maybe try what @neotko suggested about the reverse Atomic pull.

I see I've never seen anyone suggest this before, but it's a good idea - should work the same way as a regular Atomic pull does on the inside of the nozzle. I don't think it's usually necessary but could be a backup plan if the threads get gunked up real bad.