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Remy

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Everything posted by Remy

  1. We even have room on the core eeprom to store how much filament was printed with it. True forgot to add that. It says the meters used too. That would be awesome info to have. Is there any data yet on how long the cores are supposed to last? E.g. XX:XX hours printing or X material extruded? If so, it would be extra nice if the core reported this to the printer so Cura or the printer's LCD could remind the user that it's about time to change out the core.
  2. @neotko for the win! This is exactly the info I was looking for, thank you!
  3. I could just be missing something (usually glaringly obvious in my case ) but I have not been able to determine how/if the printer still logs runtime stats and how to access if so. On UM2/+ models it was under MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED but there appears to be no comparable option in the new UM3 menu. Any thoughts? Am I just missing something right in front of my face?
  4. I'm sorry that I missed this thread, @Bobr. It's been a busy week. I'm very sorry that we were unable to provide a lead time for the BB Print Core. We have them on order, but aren't able to provide a ship date at this time. Since the UM3 is a brand-new product, we would rather provide realistic information instead of false lead times. I apologize for any trouble this may have caused. Thanks @gr5 and @fbrc8-erin for stepping in here. Please let me know if there's anything further we can do. We're still learning on the UM3 as well, but we are always happy to help work with you to find the best
  5. @ultiarjan It's good to hear they plan to make it available separately because the old feeder is a big point of contention for a lot of users. It would help avoid a lot of the grinding/jam issues that can require disassembly with the old mechanism. Fingers crossed this is soon, will make my life and a lot of Ultimaker users' lives a lot easier
  6. I've seen that issue happen a couple of times, luckily it's a pretty easy fix once you figure out what's going on. Glad to hear you were able to find the problem and get it working If in the long run the issue recurs or you can't secure the gear on the stepper well enough on your own, you should be able to get a replacement from fbrc8, which is Ultimaker's US warranty provider. I've seen them replace the part for this issue before as it was originally a design flaw and not the user's fault. I'd contact the reseller you bought the upgrade kit from or email fbrc8 directly to see about this.
  7. From what I've heard, Ultimaker has specifically prohibited selling or providing warranty Plus feeders separately to users who don't have a Plus machine or the upgrade kit. If you want the new feeder you'll have to get the whole upgrade kit. Can't see why it would make much difference if the feeder came separate though?
  8. Couple of questions first: What type of printer do you have (UMO/+, Ultimaker 2/Extended or Plus version)? You should also add this to your profile so it's easier to get help and advice from everyone on the forums :)How many printing hours have you logged? You can check this by navigating to MAINTENANCE>ADVANCED menu and clicking 'Runtime stats' near the bottom. It's sounding like you might have some wear in the hot end. If it's a regular 2 or UMO/+, the PTFE coupler will wear over time and need to be replaced. (This will probably happen eventually with Plus models but the new TFM part the
  9. It's a little hard to tell what you mean, and the photos don't really show anything out of the ordinary to me. Could you post more photos of the part itself or the specific area that's the problem? Though from what you described it sounds like your print could be 'leaning' which could be a hardware problem. Have you checked to make sure all the pulleys on the machine are tightened and not slipping anywhere? Usually the ones that are most prone to slipping are on the XY axis rods. I usually print PLA at 215-220 C (mostly because I print fast/large layer heights and I'm lazy - if you use fine
  10. I agree with @tommyph1208 that increasing your nozzle temp by 5-10 C should do the trick. Best of luck, glad to hear your customer was satisfied!
  11. For thicker layers (lower resolution) you will want to increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10 C and slow down the print speed. This is to help the material continue to flow properly. This is from 3DVerkstan: "To figure out how fast you're trying to print you simply multiply your nozzle diameter with the layer height and speed. So for example, if you're printing with 0.2mm layers at 60mm/s you would do: 0.4*0.2*60 = 4.8mm 3/s." This shows how much plastic you're trying to extrude per second. Cura also does this for you if you hover over the 'print speed' field. When trying to force more plast
  12. Hi Adolfo, First off, welcome to the community I downloaded one of your models and set it up in Cura 15.04.5. The question I have is - why do you rotate your model to print on its side rather than on the flat base? If you print your models instead with the flat base facing downwards, you'll have better quality overall and can reduce the amount of supports needed. Just my $0.02. Anyway, after I loaded your model in I checked layer view and it seems to be fine. I would guess the problem is the supports needed when you try to print it on its side. Too many, or too thin for the nozzle to make
  13. Wow, that's a lot of spare parts If I had the funds I would swipe this from you in a second!
  14. @peetersm That's a shame :OThe old sockets were incredibly useful. I think using a socket wrench to attain right amount of torque will probably go a long way towards resolving material leaks and seepage. For the time being maybe try what @neotko suggested about the reverse Atomic pull.
  15. I see I've never seen anyone suggest this before, but it's a good idea - should work the same way as a regular Atomic pull does on the inside of the nozzle. I don't think it's usually necessary but could be a backup plan if the threads get gunked up real bad.
  16. Found the easter egg today thanks to the revival of this old thread and a little source code digging. Now I can cheer myself up a bit by playing some pong when my prints fail
  17. I was able to make the old Ultimaker Flex PLA (not as flexible as NinjaFlex) work with the stock parts, feeder included. Like gr5 said you need to print incredibly slowly, hotter than PLA, and oiling the filament isn't a bad idea. Two other issues come to mind though: Retractions. Since the filament is so soft, the feeder can chew into it during periods of heavy retractions, causing under extrusion or stoppage of flow altogether. Printing any flex on Ultimaker will require some playing around with retraction settings and feeder tension. Feeder motor heat creep. The Plus versions won't have t
  18. The socket should have been included with the Olsson kit, unless they're not coming with the kits anymore. I printed the wrench attachment in CPE to prevent any melt from happening when the socket heats up. It's worked really well so far, though it's not as permanent of a solution as a metal wrench. If you haven't been using any torque wrench to tighten the nozzle, you're probably getting some filament leakage in the threads, which might be causing the issue. I don't think you can get it as tight as it needs to be with hand strength only. If it's not leakage, I have found that some of the thr
  19. Looks like the PTFE was replaced when the Olsson block got installed. Could you post a photo of your print head? It's possible the spacing of the parts is off by a bit which can also cause under extrusion. Have you re-leveled the build plate recently? Starting with the optimal spacing between the nozzle and the build plate can vastly improve quality. If the printer was moved or if the glass build plate was taken out/moved around, it's a good idea to re-level using the wizard on the printer. Do you have any additional adhesive on the build plate or are you printing onto the clean glass? Is t
  20. Couple more things I can think to check: is the firmware on the printer up to date (15.04.4)? Is the printer in the same room/location as it was before? Any new drafts that could be causing temp inconsistency e.g. AC or heating unit kicking on/off in the room, open window etc? Have you checked the Bowden tube to make sure it's not crimped/damaged anywhere? This can generate friction and cause under extrusion. Is the Bowden tube fully inserted into the print head so that it's touching the PTFE coupler? Is the feeder motor kicking back (making a 'tok-tok' sound) while printing? Have you inc
  21. The 40mm/s model you posted looks a lot nicer than the 20mm/s one. What temp are you printing at? For slower speeds you need to use cooler temps, otherwise the plastic will still be hot and malleable when the next layer gets put down. The nozzle can cause the previous layer to bulge out a bit since it has not set yet. The banding is really consistent so this may not be the case here, but nozzle temp could be a factor. I don't have access to a UMO here but I will try running the cylinder towers on a UM2 later today with varied settings and let you know if I can reproduce the issue. Unless you
  22. Hi Mark, Have you tried upping shell thickness to 1.2mm? With thicker shells, infill will show through less, and generally will produce a nicer outer appearance for your model. It also looks like the model with the infill actually looks better than the one without (unless the model is supposed to have the ridging). Could you post the stl or the gcode for what you're trying to print?
  23. Awesome! Thanks for the info!
  24. Good call @ultiarjan! I have never used the RepRap flavor in Cura so the start code looked totally unfamiliar to me. Glad it fixed your issue @PattyChuck!
  25. Wow, long print! Glad to hear you got the problem resolved. I've never seen filament flood the coupler like that just because it couldn't make it through with enough force. Duly noted, thanks for sharing the solution!
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