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Remy

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Posts posted by Remy

  1.  

     

    It's on the Testing firmware. Don't use it since has a bed z bug. So probably next stable release will show you that info. You will be able to see how many print hours for each core and the max temp used on each one.

     

    We even have room on the core eeprom to store how much filament was printed with it.

     

    True forgot to add that. It says the meters used too.

     

    That would be awesome info to have.

    Is there any data yet on how long the cores are supposed to last? E.g. XX:XX hours printing or X material extruded?

    If so, it would be extra nice if the core reported this to the printer so Cura or the printer's LCD could remind the user that it's about time to change out the core.

  2. I could just be missing something (usually glaringly obvious in my case :p) but I have not been able to determine how/if the printer still logs runtime stats and how to access if so. On UM2/+ models it was under MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED but there appears to be no comparable option in the new UM3 menu.

    Any thoughts? Am I just missing something right in front of my face? :)

  3. I'm sorry that I missed this thread, @Bobr. It's been a busy week. I'm very sorry that we were unable to provide a lead time for the BB Print Core. We have them on order, but aren't able to provide a ship date at this time. Since the UM3 is a brand-new product, we would rather provide realistic information instead of false lead times. I apologize for any trouble this may have caused.

    Thanks @gr5 and @fbrc8-erin for stepping in here. Please let me know if there's anything further we can do. We're still learning on the UM3 as well, but we are always happy to help work with you to find the best solution. Since Erin and gr5 are here helping out (thank you!) you should be in good hands.

  4. I've seen that issue happen a couple of times, luckily it's a pretty easy fix once you figure out what's going on. Glad to hear you were able to find the problem and get it working :)

    If in the long run the issue recurs or you can't secure the gear on the stepper well enough on your own, you should be able to get a replacement from fbrc8, which is Ultimaker's US warranty provider. I've seen them replace the part for this issue before as it was originally a design flaw and not the user's fault. I'd contact the reseller you bought the upgrade kit from or email fbrc8 directly to see about this.

    Thanks, I wish I did own all the Ultimakers listed in my profile! Truth is I only work with them at a UM reseller here in the US. One day I'll hopefully have an Ultimaker in my home office too though :)

  5. @sandervg any ETA on selling the +feeder as a loose part... this guy has a pretty new machine so he probably doesn't want the full upgrade kit....

    And getting all the loose parts is a pain... mostly for the resellers....

     

    From what I've heard, Ultimaker has specifically prohibited selling or providing warranty Plus feeders separately to users who don't have a Plus machine or the upgrade kit. If you want the new feeder you'll have to get the whole upgrade kit. Can't see why it would make much difference if the feeder came separate though?

  6. Couple of questions first: What type of printer do you have (UMO/+, Ultimaker 2/Extended or Plus version)? You should also add this to your profile so it's easier to get help and advice from everyone on the forums :)How many printing hours have you logged? You can check this by navigating to MAINTENANCE>ADVANCED menu and clicking 'Runtime stats' near the bottom.

    It's sounding like you might have some wear in the hot end. If it's a regular 2 or UMO/+, the PTFE coupler will wear over time and need to be replaced. (This will probably happen eventually with Plus models but the new TFM part they have installed is more durable.) Usually this is between 200-300 print hours, but if you're printing materials like ABS or CPE this can happen faster than that. When the PTFE starts wearing down, you get heat creep or the filament can get snagged on the PTFE as it deforms and will have a hard time getting through the hot end to reach the nozzle. This affects flow and results in under extrusion.

    You might also have a bed leveling problem if you have a really thin brim. Pictures of your failed print/brim would be nice if you have them :)

    You can't use Cura to set temperatures on an Ultimaker machine profile. The temperatures are set in the firmware automatically. You can set up or customize the material profile settings by going to the MATERIAL>SETTINGS menu and clicking 'Customize' I think it's called. There you can set the nozzle temp to whatever you'd like for that material profile (e.g. PLA default is 210 C, but if you want to use 220 C for example you can change that to the default for the PLA profile). *Edit: Sorry, I hadn't caught the part you said you did this already. I would try a factory reset, then changing the settings again using the printer LCD. You should also update your firmware to the latest version if you haven't already.

    Otherwise if you really want to use Cura to set it, you need to lie to Cura and tell it you have a 3rd-party machine and set everything up for your "new" machine manually e.g. build volume etc. I think the printer LCD will then give you a message when you try to print gcode that you generated like that, something along the lines of "Settings in the gcode will override the firmware."

  7. It's a little hard to tell what you mean, and the photos don't really show anything out of the ordinary to me. Could you post more photos of the part itself or the specific area that's the problem?

    Though from what you described it sounds like your print could be 'leaning' which could be a hardware problem. Have you checked to make sure all the pulleys on the machine are tightened and not slipping anywhere? Usually the ones that are most prone to slipping are on the XY axis rods.

    I usually print PLA at 215-220 C (mostly because I print fast/large layer heights and I'm lazy - if you use finer resolutions or slower speeds you should be looking at a range between 190-210 C) with a bed temp of 60 C (or 65 C, if the air conditioning is on or the window is open). With colorfabb I was using 230 C. Not very impressed with their PLA/PHA as it seems to print thickly, very rough and require higher nozzle temps than the Ultimaker stuff does. The yellow in your pics looks a lot better than the white I was working with though.

  8. For thicker layers (lower resolution) you will want to increase the nozzle temperature by 5-10 C and slow down the print speed. This is to help the material continue to flow properly. This is from 3DVerkstan: "To figure out how fast you're trying to print you simply multiply your nozzle diameter with the layer height and speed. So for example, if you're printing with 0.2mm layers at 60mm/s you would do: 0.4*0.2*60 = 4.8mm 3/s." This shows how much plastic you're trying to extrude per second.

    Cura also does this for you if you hover over the 'print speed' field. When trying to force more plastic through the nozzle you want to allow physics to have a chance at it :)

    • Like 3
  9. Hi Adolfo,

    First off, welcome to the community :)

    I downloaded one of your models and set it up in Cura 15.04.5. The question I have is - why do you rotate your model to print on its side rather than on the flat base? If you print your models instead with the flat base facing downwards, you'll have better quality overall and can reduce the amount of supports needed. Just my $0.02.

    Anyway, after I loaded your model in I checked layer view and it seems to be fine. I would guess the problem is the supports needed when you try to print it on its side. Too many, or too thin for the nozzle to make? I'm not sure. But it looks like it will work fine standing upright on the flat base. Here's a screenshot:

    adolfo1.thumb.png.f109a58d5eb63174c7628758693893c6.png

    Hope this helps!

    adolfo1.thumb.png.f109a58d5eb63174c7628758693893c6.png

  10. I don't mean to do atomic with the filament in. You do an atomic, take out the nozzle, and then you heat the hotend without the nozzle and insert filament where the nozzle should be, then you reverse atomic to clean the threads if they had blackgoo from a leak.

     

    I see :) I've never seen anyone suggest this before, but it's a good idea - should work the same way as a regular Atomic pull does on the inside of the nozzle. I don't think it's usually necessary but could be a backup plan if the threads get gunked up real bad.

  11. I was able to make the old Ultimaker Flex PLA (not as flexible as NinjaFlex) work with the stock parts, feeder included. Like gr5 said you need to print incredibly slowly, hotter than PLA, and oiling the filament isn't a bad idea. Two other issues come to mind though:

    Retractions. Since the filament is so soft, the feeder can chew into it during periods of heavy retractions, causing under extrusion or stoppage of flow altogether. Printing any flex on Ultimaker will require some playing around with retraction settings and feeder tension.

    Feeder motor heat creep. The Plus versions won't have this problem because the stepper axle no longer contacts the knurled gear that drives the material, but the older UM2 models didn't have the new feeder and this was a big issue I found while testing. I didn't find a good solution to this other than pointing a big fan at the feeder while printing.

  12. thanks for the tips and info.

    I'm not able to detect any filament gumming up the threads. if there is filament in there do you just ignore it and keep making the nozzle hotter when changing? or is there a cleaning method that works for you?

    I did try at 220C and that was not any better. I can try hotting but I have only been printing in PLA, so 220C should be hot enough.

    I may go buy a real torque wrench after finding and reading about the 3D printed one...you need to buy a 7mm socket and if printed in pla it can get melty when the heat transfers from the nozzle to socket to pla.

     

    The socket should have been included with the Olsson kit, unless they're not coming with the kits anymore. I printed the wrench attachment in CPE to prevent any melt from happening when the socket heats up. It's worked really well so far, though it's not as permanent of a solution as a metal wrench. If you haven't been using any torque wrench to tighten the nozzle, you're probably getting some filament leakage in the threads, which might be causing the issue. I don't think you can get it as tight as it needs to be with hand strength only.

    If it's not leakage, I have found that some of the threads on the Olsson blocks and nozzles need to be "worn in" when new from the factory. Small artifacts and burrs leftover from the manufacturing process can remain and cause binding when screwed in the first time. I usually screw the nozzle in most of the way, then back it out and rescrew it in if it requires more force than usual. Then after changing out the second time they seem to be better. Of course, you don't want to force it too much otherwise the nozzle could get stuck, snap, or strip the existing threads in the block.

    I haven't done any reverse atomic pulls. The regular Atomic pull should work fine for cleaning out the nozzle inside, and heating the block without the nozzle installed should cause excess material to melt away from the threads there.

  13. Looks like the PTFE was replaced when the Olsson block got installed. Could you post a photo of your print head? It's possible the spacing of the parts is off by a bit which can also cause under extrusion.

    Have you re-leveled the build plate recently? Starting with the optimal spacing between the nozzle and the build plate can vastly improve quality. If the printer was moved or if the glass build plate was taken out/moved around, it's a good idea to re-level using the wizard on the printer.

    Do you have any additional adhesive on the build plate or are you printing onto the clean glass?

    Is this issue present in all your models, or just the one you posted a photo of? Have you continued printing and observed the same behavior?

    Another thing you can check easily: are you printing with the material still on the spool, or do you cut material off the spool and let it hang freely on the back of the printer? I usually cut material off the spool as it reduces friction and lets the filament feed in much more smoothly. If there's a tangle in the filament, or if it's just wound too tightly/not tightly enough around the spool, this can also cause systemic under extrusion. Maybe give it a shot printing off the spool and see if this helps.

    Last but not least: have you tried increasing the bottom/top thickness in Cura? I usually use a value of 1mm to cover up the infill when printing with a lower infill percentage like 10-20%. This maybe doesn't explain the issue but can give you a quick fix to continue printing while troubleshooting.

    • Like 1
  14. Couple more things I can think to check:

    is the firmware on the printer up to date (15.04.4)?

    Is the printer in the same room/location as it was before? Any new drafts that could be causing temp inconsistency e.g. AC or heating unit kicking on/off in the room, open window etc?

    Have you checked the Bowden tube to make sure it's not crimped/damaged anywhere? This can generate friction and cause under extrusion. Is the Bowden tube fully inserted into the print head so that it's touching the PTFE coupler?

    Is the feeder motor kicking back (making a 'tok-tok' sound) while printing?

    Have you increased the nozzle temp while printing to try and eliminate the issue?

    Have you tried swapping to a new nozzle? XT is pretty abrasive stuff so if any was left over in the nozzle, it's possible that it's carbonized and is just hardened in there now. Atomic pulls can look clean but could be that's because the material is no longer getting viscous in there and isn't moving, just blocking up some of the melt chamber. The JET nozzles are designed slightly differently and should be specially treated inside, but I don't know if this makes leftover material harder/easier to clean out. I've seen a few cases with the stock nozzles where leftover material has carbonized so much that Atomic pulls come out fine but under extrusion continues to happen even after several pulls and checking everything else.

  15. based on the results, i think its the extruder or filament since the banding changes based on layer size. does this seem right? i think i can rule out the z screw and bed assembly.

     

    The 40mm/s model you posted looks a lot nicer than the 20mm/s one. What temp are you printing at? For slower speeds you need to use cooler temps, otherwise the plastic will still be hot and malleable when the next layer gets put down. The nozzle can cause the previous layer to bulge out a bit since it has not set yet. The banding is really consistent so this may not be the case here, but nozzle temp could be a factor.

    I don't have access to a UMO here but I will try running the cylinder towers on a UM2 later today with varied settings and let you know if I can reproduce the issue.

    Unless you have solved it already of course! :)

  16. Hi Mark,

    Have you tried upping shell thickness to 1.2mm? With thicker shells, infill will show through less, and generally will produce a nicer outer appearance for your model.

    It also looks like the model with the infill actually looks better than the one without (unless the model is supposed to have the ridging). Could you post the stl or the gcode for what you're trying to print?

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