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geert_2

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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. I have used this concept before when printing large overhangs. It was based on an idea of another user, but I forgot his name (might have been smartavionics?). It works very well, even with only a few connecting strands. My strands were 1mm long, 0.5mm wide, and 0.2mm high (=2 layers of 0.1mm). Inverted triangles to generate support do not work well for small layer-heights of 0.1mm: they tend to curl up too much. Inverted staircases (1mm steps) worked better for me. See the pics. So, depending on the design, this method can be very usefull. Inverted triangles curl up too much. Basic concept: Long bridge with hanging support, so the text below does not get damaged by the supports. All plates are 1mm thick in this test. The little ribs on top of the support are 0.5mm wide, separated 1mm. The result. The supports can easily be removed, and they do very little damage to the walls.
  2. I tried doing this manually: cut both ends at 90° angles, hold them together in a custom device (see pic below), heat a knife in a flame, put the hot knife inbetween both filament ends and melt them, remove knife, push both molten ends together, and let cool. Then you need to grind away the flange at the seam, otherwise it will not pass through the bowden tube and nozzle. You need to melt both ends to get a good bonding, then it is almost as strong as new. This method works and can especially be usefull for artistic purposes: to melt lots of different colors together. But it is not worth the time and hassle for me. So I use the left-over ends for doing atomic pulls, or for other purposes where I need a bit of plastic. For example you can heat a left-over strand, and ply it around something else (think of cable binders). Or ply them into hooks or clamps, or whatever.
  3. Maybe there are different infill patterns, or infill percentages, in which the nozzle follows a different traject with less starts and stops, and less jumps? I don't know if this is possible, but just guessing. Check this in layer view in Cura, before printing.
  4. It appears that OpenGL is coming with the graphics drivers. OpenGL is a specification to which drivers and hardware have to adhere, it is not a driver by itself. I am just echoing what I read on internet here (and hope it is correct), I am not a programmer. :-) So the latest graphics driver should give the latest version, if the hardware supports it. And if the manufacturer delivers new drivers for your system. Search for: "windows how to update opengl". Also there might be incompatible or buggy drivers, so in such cases you might need to try a different version, higher or lower than your current version. I am not sure, but I vaguely remember something that this was the case with some Intel laptop drivers?
  5. On the older spools I have the material is indicated: PS (=polystyreen). Other spools might be ABS, PC,... I don't know about the newest spools. So yes, these old ones should be recyclable. (But I am not an Ultimaker representative, but just a user, so this is not official.) But even if the spool would not be recycled, but only recollected in the general "rest" fraction of garbage, and be burned, it is probably still way more environmentally friendly than glass or cardboard. Cardboard requires killing lots of trees to produce it. And glass requires 100x more energy to melt it than plastic. And you don't get any energy back from it at the end of its lifecycle (which for glass bottles is only 6x re-use, plus a lot of dangerous chemical cleaning liquids in-between). Modern burning-installations use the heat from burning garbage to produce electricity and warmth for heating buildings, or for industrial processes (for which otherwise other energy sources would have to be found). The exhaust gasses CO2 and H2O (carbondioxide and water vapour) are food for the plants and trees. Today there is not enough CO2 in the air, only 0.03% to 0.04%, and most plants are on the edge of extinction. Ideally, there should be between 4x and 10x more CO2 for optimal plant growth. Yes, way more CO2, not less. Which is scientifically proven in every glass greenhouse: they inject a lot of CO2 in their greenhouses to increase growth and production. The rule is: 10x more CO2 gives 6x to 7x more green, without you needing to do anything. Plants grow by themself. Then all deserts world-wide would become green again, automatically. The problem is not "lack of water" in the deserts, no, the problem is lack of CO2 to enable plant growth. If there is 10x more CO2, then plants don't have to open their pores as much to breathe in enough CO2, so they don't evaporate and lose as much moisture. Then the current amount of water in the desert is sufficient. This has been proven over and over again in test-environments. And if all deserts would be green again, covered in forest, earth temperature would go down a bit and then stabilise. Because the sunlight is absorbed by the trees and turned into wood and leafs, so it is used-up, and can no longer heat the surface. Wood is stored solar energy. And if the whole earth would be green again, with 6...7x more plants than now, there is enough food for everyone, and for all animals. This would be very benificial, obviously. The chemical formula is: CO2 + H2O + lots of sunlight energy ---> long C-H-O chains (=wood + leafs + juices) + O2. In words: carbondioxide and water are turned into wood, leafs, and juices, if there is enough sunlight as energy source. And oxygen is released. The O2 is the oxygen we need to breath. So we do exactly the opposite as plants: we eat green (vegetables, fruits, wheat, nuts,...; thus we eat stored solar energy) and we breathe oxygen in. Out of this we produce energy to move and to keep our body on temperature. And we exhaust CO2 and H2O. So, solar energy is first stored in plants, and then we eat these plants to release that solar energy in our body. We are running on "indirect solar energy". Any process that consumes oil, or gass, and that produces CO2, greatly helps the growth of trees and plants. CO2 is the most important life-gas on earth, without which no life would be possible. So, don't feel bad when you need to burn oil, gas or plastic. As long as you burn it cleanly, without producing too much sooth and particles. You are greening the planet and improving life. Long ago, the whole earth was covered in green. But bit by bit, the leafs felt on the ground, and all this carbon got entrapped under the surface of the land, in the form of coal, brown coal, oil and gas. So it could no longer be part of the life cycle. Today there is not enough carbon in the life-cycle anymore, on the surface, so life is dying. We should dig up all this entrapped carbon (coal, oil, gas,...), and burn it so it can be part of the life-cycle again. And so that we can make the whole earth green again. Yes, I know that my vision is not "politically correct", but it is definitely and absolutely scientifically correct. Life is dying because of lack of CO2: there is only 0.03 to 0.04%. Below 0.02%, plant growth is no longer possible. We are at the lower edge, plants are in CO2-hunger, and we need to dramatically increase CO2 output to survive. You can easily search for, and verify these things. This is basic high-school science. So, clearly, plastic is a very good product, even if not perfect. As long as you don't throw it in the environment, but you recycle it or cleanly burn it to regain its energy. Don't feel bad for using plastic, and for burning gas and oil. Don't feel bad for improving plant life and saving the earth.
  6. You will have to do that in a 3D-CAD program. Cura is a slicer, not a 3D-editor.
  7. I have no solution for a smooth bottom plate on top of supports, for a single-nozzle printer (like my UM2). The underside where the support was, is always a bit rough. Except design changes: cutting the model in half, printing both halves on their flat cut side, and glueing both parts together afterwards. But you will see the seam. Or making the model asymmetrical, so that one side can be laid flat on the glass without need of support (if the design or function allows this). I once made testpieces for supports to try to minimize this roughness, and still be able to get the support off. A custom support with ribs gave the best result, but some roughness is still there. (See pic below: the numbers indicate the vertical gap in mm between the support ribs and the underside of the top plate. The ribs are 0.5mm, separated 1mm.) For testing, I recommend making a design with only the features under test, for example when testing the clamps, only print these clamps without the rest. Until you get this perfect. Idem for the supports: make a small test plate with just that. So you don't waste too much material and time.
  8. The PET I have does similar things: - While printing, it accumulates on the nozzle. This goo then gets brown, and sags onto the model, and is deposited as big brown blobs. The brown color is clearly visible on white, but it may not be visible on black. These blobs also tend to cause fine hairs in the print, both when the blob sags from the nozzle, and when the nozzle passes through previously deposited blobs. - When bridging, it does not pull a nice bridge. But the strand rather tends to snap like chewing gum and fold back onto itself, causing a blob under the nozzle. This is then deposited onto the next wall upon arriving there. - When traveling through air, the nozzle leaks a little bit (overpressure in the nozzle that is releasing), also causing a little blob or "insect antenna" onto the next wall. It looks quite similar to what you have. Watch carefully while printing, and you can see it happen. Printing slow and cool reduces these effects in my models, but I can't totally eliminate them.
  9. Yes indeed. My models typically take 2...3 hours to print; I rarely have longer printing times. So I don't know how it would hold up for long prints that take a day.
  10. Yes indeed, "insect antennas". I see this on PET too. Printing slower and cooler helps a bit for me, since there is less pressure build-up in the nozzle, and it leaks less. But I don't know a way to eliminate it.
  11. I print PET on clean bare glass. Sometimes I use the "salt method", however this does not increase bonding for PET (contrary to for PLA), but rather reduces it slightly, but it makes it a lot easier to remove parts. To prevent warping, I use no cooling fans, or the absolute minimum. But no fans makes it more difficult to bridge gaps, so this is not suitable for every design. Most of my designs are long flat models without bridges. I tried dilluted white wood glue too a couple of times (ca. 10% glue in water), but this bonded way too strong: it tended to chip the glass while cooling, even before I started pulling the model off. So if you need a strong bond, this should work. :-) But the bed has to be hot enough: 60 or 70°C won't do for me. I need to set it to ca. 80...85°C. The photo below is what the bottom of my PET parts looks like: no corners lifting, and no problems making tiny holes. These are small models (see ruler behing in mm and cm), but it looks the same for my bigger models. Printed with the salt method to facilitate removal: you can see the tiny pits caused by the salt (looks like corrosion pits).
  12. What about changing your bonding method, so your prints can be removed easily? For PLA, I use the "salt method": wiping the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, prior to printing. No glue. This gives good bonding while hot, but absolutely no bonding when the glass is cold. So, models can be taken off very easily. But this is only for PLA, and for low flat models (not for "lantern poles"). For my old manual, see here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ User neotko uses hairspray for bonding, and he removes his models by adding a few drops of window cleaner (if I remember well) when ready. This creeps under the models and dislodges them easily. This seems to work very well for his big models too. For wood glue, some people put the model and glass bed in the fridge, and then it pops off. Probably there will be other methods that are worth trying? With the salt method, I can easily print these models at 100% infill, without edges lifting, and without damaging them when taking off after completion.
  13. Another trick is to model in your CAD design a few dots outside of your model, sitting 1mm lower than the real model. So Cura will drop the dots onto the bed, and then the real model will float 1mm above the glass. This of course will require you to use supports for the floating part, otherwise it will print spaghetti.
  14. I guess the snap-areas are the two "keyhole" openings? First I would make the splits a bit wider, so the clamps would deform less while snapping over the rails. That should still give enough retention. Depending on the load it has to see, I would also use a higher infill, maybe 50...70% or so? And the layer-lines should definitely go in such a way that they cause no weaknesses. Just like when you cut wood along the grain. You also need to print hot enough, and slow, to get a good layer-bonding and no underextrusion. Personally, I have no problems with PET snap-fits, like these chains. In PLA they crack after some time, due to the PLA being too brittle and stiff. But PET is flexible enough. The cream ones are PLA, and they begin to crack and deform after repeated use. The green one is PET: no cracks, no deformation. For reference: text caps-height is 3.5mm (=hollow watermark in the model). I printed these solid 100% infill, at 215°C, and slow at 25mm/s, 0.1mm layers.
  15. For my (older) UM2 and PLA and PET materials, 25...30mm/s is slow enough to get good quality. At 50mm/s (default for PLA) quality is okay for most models, but not optimal for high details. Printing at 10mm/s is too slow: then the material is sitting too long in the nozzle and it starts to discolor and decompose (gets brown). It also depends on the temperature. Lower speed gives less ringing, cleaner corners, and better layer bonding. I would say, make a small test model with your typical features, and print that at various speeds and temperatures, and closely watch what happens while printing. This may cost a day of testing, but you will soon win that time back.
  16. Some materials do not print well over gaps: instead of pulling a nice string, they snap and fold back into a blob on the nozzle, thus effectively printing nothing, and not closing the gap. That blob is then deposited on the next wall the printer encounters, causing a weird sort of "insect antennas". Could it be that you have this effect too? In addition to the fact that you are not printing diagonal lines over the gaps, but concentric lines, which have nothing to hold onto.
  17. Hello, During the years the site has been getting better and better, so this is a good evolution. But I think it could still contain a bit more diagnostics manuals and tips and tricks that come back very often in the forum. For example: - A detailed list of all existing and well working bonding methods to the glass bed: the "official" glue stick, the official glue stick + wiping it with a wet tissue to egalise it, 10% wood glue in water, hairspray, my salt method (PLA only), 3DLAC, sheets, etc... With all their advantages and disadvantages. So that people can try them, and choose the one that works best. - A detailed list of possible causes of underextrusion, like the one gr5 has (ask him if you can reuse it). - Etc..., just all the things that keep coming back on the forum.
  18. Yes, obviously an atomic pull by rotating and wiggling is not going to work on split channel nozzles. :-) At the time of writing that manual, I didn't even know such nozzles did exist. For temperatures, I think the best is to try lowering and increasing temp in steps of 5 or 10°C on the fly, while doing a testprint. And then see when it starts to underextrude, or get too liquid. And then find something inbetween that works best for your typical models, speeds, materials, nozzle, and printer model. All these have an influence. Start from the default values for your situation. Thermal paste is thermally conductive paste, to get a better thermal contact between components, to heat up or cool down things more efficiently. Often people use thermally conductive but electrically insulating paste between microprocessor chips and cooling plates in computers. This is usually white or grey paste. Sometimes we use paste that is both thermally and electrically conductive. This is often copper paste, which is also used to prevent bolts and nuts to get stuck and corrode. Copper paste lubricates a bit, and makes movement easier, *but it can cause short circuits!* So it depends where you want to use it. Copper paste is more often used on screws in bolting together heavy equipment, like gear boxes, engines, pumps, piping in chemical plants, etc... I have copper paste between the nozzle and cooling plates on my UM2. It is the dark color shade (barely visible) at the bottom of the inox ring with round holes, just above the lowest thick aluminum plate, and just below the tiny red marker line.
  19. Maybe you could circumvent this by adding four little dots of 1 layer thick in the corners, outside of your real model? So they define the borders? And always keep these dots in the design?
  20. @silver-girl: are you sure you have a standard nozzle? I think there are a few printers with split internal channels in the nozzle, like a snake-tongue. Maybe you have such a one? Standard atomic pulls should look somewhat like these below. Here the big blob in the white indicates that the teflon coupler (UM2-printer) is worn out (=internally deformed) and needs replacement. The orange at the bottom is what an optimal result should look like. Orange/white colors shades are due to doing the atomic pulls as part of a filament color change. @PyramidHead76: yes, underextrusion can be the result of the sum of lots of little things. Added up resistance in the unwinding of the spool, spool friction, bowden-tube friction, nozzle friction,... What I usually do is unwind a bit, straighten it by rolling it up in inverse direction on a skater wheel (7cm diameter), immediately release again, and wind it loosely up again on the original spool. So the tension is off. Indeed, often I see small cracks due to the straigthening. But I do *not* let it sit under straightening stress for longer periods of time, because that causes these cracks to grow and break the filament. So after straightening, you should immediately release the stress. Especially for hard and brittle PLA filaments. Microcracks in straightened colorFabb PLA/PHA (color: natural) filament: Straightening filament with a skater wheel, then releasing it. So it sits very loose around the spool, and is prevented from falling off by the yellow slider on the edge of the spool. The bending radius is now almost identical to that of the bowden tube, causing very little friction in the tube and nozzle. This especially helps for the old UM2 (non-plus). My prints normally take 2...3 hours, and consume 2...3 meters, so I can easily do this (might be inconvenient for day-long prints). Try manually moving both unstraightened and straightened filament through bowden tube and nozzle to feel the difference in resistance.
  21. Usually I do the cleaning with desinfection alcohol (I think that is 70% isopropylalcohol + 30% water?), then clean again with pure luke-warm tap water only. Then prior to printing, I wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water. This leaves a thin, almost invisible mist of salt stuck to the glass. This greatly improves bonding for PLA, compared to printing on bare glass, as long as the glass is warm (60°C). After cooling down, models pop-off by themself, and there is zero bonding. So this method does not damage delicate models. After that, I just re-wipe the glass with the tissue, without taking it out, and without cleaning. I just clean once every 6 months. The rest is wiping with the tissue moistened with salt water only. This salt method only works for PLA. For PET, it does not improve bonding, but does reduce the risk of chipping the glass. For ABS it does not work; and I don't know about other materials. Also, this method works really well for my long and low models. But it is not optimal for thin high models like lantern poles: they tend to get knocked over. Maybe because the salt can not absorb shocks, contrary to a more flexible glue layer? For me, the "salt method" works better than the gluestick which I tried in the very beginning. But maybe I applied too much glue, and I did not wipe it smooth with water afterwards, which seems to give much better results for others. For an old manual (and too long, I know), see: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Other bonding methods: - 10% white wood glue dissolved in water (user gr5), - hairspray (user neotko), - glue stick, - 3DLAC spray (and other similar products), - very clean bare glass (a bit unpredictable), - dedicated adhesive foils (for PP, PE,...), - painter's tape (for non-heated beds), - others I don't know? I would suggest you try different methods, and variations within methods, until you find one that works well for your environment, your filament, and your models. As far as I know, there is no perfect method that always works. But there are several methods that are very good for most purposes. Stay with the printer and watch closely when doing these tests, so you can exactly see what happens, and you can abort when necessary. Also, do the tests with a very hard test model like this below, with a very small contact-area and huge overhangs which tend to curl up and try to warp the model. If the test works for this model, then you have some safety margin for more moderate models. 1. The central round area is to reduce the risk of the model coming off totally. 2. If this model would come off, the area around it prevents it from sliding around. 3. This is the usual effect if bonding is not perfect: edges warp. Notice how much corners of overhangs tend to curl up. 4. Similar model after printing: the edges did warp and lift, but the test could still be completed. In poorer bondings, the model would have fallen off. In better bondings, the ends would not have lifted. 5. Spaghetti after this model got knocked over, due to the head banging brutally into the curled-up overhangs. 6. Absolutely no warping/lifting for normal models.
  22. If you have an oven, for example to dry filament, you could also pre-heat the cleaned glass in there. This should reduce the warming-up time a bit. This is just a theoretical idea :-) I never tried it myself, since I never take the glass out of my printer: I let it cool in the printer until the models pop off, then wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, and start the next print.
  23. Have you checked these? - Check if the little nozzle-cooling fan at the back of the head still works? If not, or if too slow, this would cause the heat to travel up into the filament, soften it, and make it hard to get through the teflon coupler. Sometimes filament strings and hairs get sucked into it, slowing it down. - Does the feeder wheel not slip on the drive axis? Write a colored mark on both, and see if they stay aligned? I have read that this occasionally happens. - With a fine needle (with rounded edges so you don't damage the nozzle) gently and carefully poke through the nozzle? - Bad filament that is too hard to unroll near the end of the spool? This could act as a very strong spring, trying to pull the rolled-off filament back onto the spool. Also, filament with a too tight bending radius causes very high friction in the bowden tube and in the nozzle. This is why near the end of a PLA spool, I manually unroll a few meters of filament, straighten it, and roll it back onto the spool very loosely. - Bad filament with incorrect (too thick) diameter? - When manually heating the nozzle, I guess the temperature readings are okay and stable? But if you can easily push filemant through manually, it should be okay. PS: if you would like a more gently method of atomic pulls, without brutal pulling and risk of displacing nozzle-components or bending rods, you might try my method: disconnect bowden tube at front, manually heat the nozzle, manually insert and extrude some material (preferably PLA), let cool down very well until at room temp (blow compressed air to speed this up, if available), then gently wiggle and rotate the filament to dislodge dirt, heat up again to 70°C, and gently rotate while gently pulling the filament out. No brute force. For me this works equally well as the traditional atomic pulls, but it is easier on the machine. For the full manual and photos, see (and then scroll down a bit): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
  24. From the gcode, can you write text to the LCD-display? If yes, you could insert status messages every few lines in your custom code, and then let it wait for a second (so you have time to read), before doing the next command? Might make debugging easier.
  25. Ask Simone Gierz, she can definitely make one for you. :-) See her TED-talk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0bsKc4tiuY
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