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geert_2

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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. Yes. These models were designed a couple of years ago for single-nozzle printers, and older slicers. So they are all printed with the exact same settings. Sometimes I provide gaps to make removal easier, so that parts are only kept in place by strings, not modeled connections. I consider these supports an integral part of the design, not a separate add-on later. Similar to when designing for injection moulding, then you also consider the fabrication method and aspects from the very beginning. These are all very small models, so reachability and removability of the suppo
  2. I often design custom supports in CAD, as part of the model, and then turn the slicer-support off, like gr5 said. Then you have full control. General supports are great for general items. But special models may require special custom solutions. Yes, custom designing them may take quite some time, but you win that back when it prints well and does require less post-processing. For example, see the pink and orange supports in the first pic. This model is too small to get in with a knife or plier to remove standard supports. Now I can easily grab them and wiggle them loose.
  3. If you can't find the official oil, I think a fine oil for light machinery and house-hold stuff should be okay. For example the sort that is used for bikes, tools in the workshop, model trains, etc. As long as it does not dry out into gum, like mine did... But I didn't have a good quality fine oil, and I had 100 liter of hydraulic oil spare, so I gave that a try... Don't use thick oil (thus no grease, no high-temp oil, no car motor oil, etc.), and don't use thin dislodging oil (does not lubricate well). You can feel if the rods are too dry. Switch off the printer, and g
  4. I do it very similarly. First, moisten a tissue with isopropyl alcohol and wipe the rods to clean them: they collect lots of dust. Then moisten a tissue with a drop of oil, and wipe the rods to oil. Never pour oil on the rods directly: it will be way too much, and you don't want oil leaking on the glass, or on the rubber belts. Ultimaker recommends a light machine oil, if I remember well. However, I once had sewing machine oil from a sewing shop, but that dried-out fast and turned into gum. So, now I use thin hydraulic oil, because I have lots of spare of it from our hydraulic test
  5. The companies Materialise, Melotte, and Protolabs do metal 3D-printing. Maybe you can find the info you are looking for at their websites? Including guidelines for dimensioning? I think the models shrink a bit, but I have no experience and knowledge about this myself.
  6. When making tiny filters for a vacuum pump, I had to print them very slowly and in very thin layers. Otherwise, if printed at 0.2 or 0.3mm layers, it had lots of tiny openings, through which tiny jets of water squirted out, similar to out of an injection needle. When printing at 0.06mm layers and 25mm/s in PLA, it was water-tight. But if you are going to print your huge model at such a low speed and layer height, it is going to take forever. So, I would make a *small* test model first, and see how that works under high pressure. Put tap water on it, or even via a high-p
  7. My first thought was: "dirty glass". If you clean it with soap or window cleaner, be sure to clean it again afterwards with pure warm tap water only. Best twice. Thus no more soap. The reason is that soap reduces bonding too. So you really need to remove all traces of soap and detergents. Don't ask how I know this. :-) After a closer look at your photos, it looks like the bottom "sausages" are quite round, not very much squeezed into the glass. That could also reduce bonding. So, in addition to cleaning, I would also check bed leveling, and bring that closer if necessary.
  8. At first, I thought: are you really going to slide downhill in a 3D-printed sled? What if it breaks? But then I saw the dimensions: 12cm. :-) The first photo, it laying upside down, looks really convincing.
  9. Thanks for the feedback, it could indeed help people in similar situations, even for other printers.
  10. Do the walls need to be slanted for cutting cookies? For injection moulding plastics, for sure yes, for casting silicones also yes, unless the models are very thin. But for soft cookies or dough? If I had to print cookie cutters or plasticine cutters, I would probably first try straight walls, print with a standard 0.4mm nozzle (less risk of underextrusion and clogs), 0.8mm thick walls (=2 lines), print slow at 25...30mm/s, thin layers 0.06...0.12mm, and print cool at the lower edge of the temp range. Printing cool helps prevent the filament from decomposing in the nozzle due to th
  11. This looks like severe underextrusion. It could have lots of reasons: user gr5 has made a good list and tutorial video on this. See if you can find it here on the forum (I don't know the links), and check each item on the list. I once made underextrusion tests. Your models look a bit like the 80-90% in my tests. This is PLA. (Lack of light, translucent filament, and narrow depth of field of the camera don't help the photo quality, but you get the idea.)
  12. If you could redesign the overhanging rings to be at 45° or 60°, instead of 0° (where 0° is horizontal and 90° is vertical), they could print without supports. I don't know that machine, so I don't know if these rings are functionally required or not? Or if they could do with a shallower angle? That would seem the best option, if functionally possible, since you don't need supports then. If you do need the rings at 0°, and thus do want supports, but you don't want them to go all the way down, you could also design custom free hanging supports, like I did in these models. But test t
  13. I don't know your printer, but it looks like it still needs calibrating steps, and maybe correcting slack and tolerances. You may need to find manuals and tutorials on that for your printer, or ask the manufacturer. After that, for finding the best settings for general printing: just stay with the printer and watch it closely, while printing small test models. Do lots of test models, one by one. Change speed on the fly, and see how that affects the print quality. Change temperature on the fly, and see what happens. Change cooling on the fly, change flow-rate, etc... Print the same
  14. Yes, just print enough skirt priming lines around the object: 5 for a bigger object, 10 for a tiny one. And while it is printing these, turn the bed-adjusting screws until you get the desired thickness and squeezing of your first layer.
  15. For sealing seams, maybe you could also make your own custom gaskets? Print a mould, and pour silicone in it, the kind of silicone that is used for, well, mould-making. Be sure to smooth the layer-lines of the mould, otherwise removal of the silicone will be difficult. Silicones come in various hardnesses, from flesh-like up to tire-like.
  16. I wanted to fly RC-planes, but I can't even drive and park an RC-car: I keep getting left and right mixed-up. So I dare not try a plane where fast reactions are required, and in a roll even up and down get inverted. Maybe a huge RC-containership would go, because it is so slow I would have enough time to think the inversions through. But I am not into ships... Concerning the weight, if you visually compare old lightweight and new heavier prints, isn't there any visible difference? Are there added structures, or is just everything thicker? A 30% increase should be visible somewhere,
  17. Just a question: this "increased weight", is that: (1) Calculated and indicated weight in Cura, prior to printing? Or (2) is it a measured increase on a scale, after printing? If (1), then could it be that Cura also calculates the weight of printing supports? Just a thought that crossed my mind, I don't know how realistic it is... About RC-planes: has anyone of you ever built one with a live camera, and a VR-headset, so you can fly it from a real pilot's viewpoint? Should be much easier to fly, I think? I never understood how some great pilots can accurately control an RC-plane fro
  18. Is de draad versleten, of is hij volgelopen met gestold filament? Dat kan gebeuren als hij gelekt heeft. In dit geval: lichtjes opwarmen tot pakweg 60...80°C zodat het plastic terug zacht wordt kan helpen. Ik heb zelf geen printers met olsson blocks, dus verder kan ik geen concrete tips geven.
  19. A tip: while slicing, always verify the model in layer-view mode, before starting a print. Then you can see all nozzle movements, and you can see layer by layer what is going to be printed (like brim, supports, model) and what not (too thin parts). Then this issue would already have come up during the slicing.
  20. I am not part of the Ultimaker team, nor software development, so I can't say what you should do. However, I think it would be best if you get more familiar with your 3D-editors and STL-export first, so you can always produce technically correct and "water-tight" STL-files (=no gaps between the STL-triangles). As soon as your STL-files are error-free solids, and you still feel there is room for improvement in the slicers, then of course you could write a report. This gives you a lot more chance that it will be welcomed and considered.
  21. Quite often you will need a couple of standard texts, such as a logo and a copyright notice. I make these beforehand and save them as separate designs, so I can always re-use them. Then, for surface text (=raised or recessed) I load the text-file and move it into the right location of the design. For raised text I union it with the model, so text plus model are only one solid. For recessed text I subtract it from the model, which again leaves me with only one solid, with cut-out characters. But I do the fusing only at the very end, after I am sure the text and model are
  22. Indeed, the first layer is crucial. For me, 0.1mm is too thin and gives occasional blank areas (=uncovered), 0.3mm is too thick and reduces bonding, and 0.2mm is best: this gives good coverage and good bonding (glass bed). But for other materials, beds, and printers, it could be different. Normally the bottom looks like this (ruler is in mm and cm): For PLA and printing on glass, wiping the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water greatly improves bonding, compared to printing on bare glass. See my old manual here (and then scroll down a bit): https://ww
  23. I would probably use the vertical position, and indeed use a very wide brim for bonding to the glass. Or design a custom brim in the CAD model. If you want to make custom supports in CAD for a single-nozzle printer, you could try free-hanging supports. Without supports the arcs might look a bit like grapes. These below are free-hanging supports. Note that this is a very small model: the opening where the supports are hanging in, is only 5mm wide. The ribs on top of the supports are 0.5mm wide and high. Between support-ribs and the underside of the roof is a tiny gap bet
  24. All plastics tend to creep under load, and deform permanently, especially PLA. Try printing a hook as cloth hanger, and after even a few days, you will see the deformation. Can be quite severe. So I am not sure if 3D-printing is the best for CNC-machine parts? Or maybe if you use glass-fiber or carbon-filled filaments? But I have no experience with them, so I can't give recommendations. I read that they tend to clog nozzles easily, and you need a hardened nozzle and feeder, as they are abrasive. Another option could be to print moulds in 3D, and then cast the parts with
  25. Have you verified if your STL-file is solid and error-free? I could imagine that if there would be STL-errors, some things might print well in one orientation, but not in another? In the beginning I tried designing text in SketchUp, and import that in my designs, because my editor DesignSpark Mechanical did not have a text editor function. And at that time I did not know the work-around via the dimensioning-tool. But SketchUp-text had lots of gaps in its vectors, they did not connect. That caused text to import poorly, and some characters got lost, or would not convert from surface
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