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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. Could it be that you selected the wrong printer in Cura, or whatever slicer you used? Or its bed dimensions in Cura got corrupted? Or else: defective SD-card, corrupt gcode files, hairs or dust in the SD-slot causing bad contacts (try blowing it out with compressed air)? Or something else along this line...?
  2. Yes, I would welcome videos on your techniques. Thanks.
  3. You would need to sit next to the printer and keep watching. My guess is that the bed is not perfectly clean, and/or the glue (if you use glue for bonding) is not spread equally. So the printed sausage does not stick perfectly. In such cases, I have seen these printed lines lifting a little bit on the outer edge. And then, on the next pass of the nozzle in the opposite direction, they would be melted again and be pushed against the bed again. If the bed-adhesion is not identical everywhere, this could cause similar irregular patterns. Filament with silver or glossy part
  4. Wow, print quality and smoothness is impressive, especially the teeth. Did you use supports for the fins? I was trying to see in which orientation you printed it, but I can't see the layer lines. :-) The color, is that colorFabb's translucent orange?
  5. Is this also present Cura's layer view? If yes, it is most likely a Cura software-issue. If no, it is most likely a printer hardware-issue (which I think it is): or the motor is missing steps due to too much friction, or some pulley is sliding over its shaft instead of gripping it, as gr5 said. The "too much friction" can be identified by moving the head with your hands: this should go smoothly and evenly in both directions. If you almost can't move it by hand in one direction, then the motors can't either. I had this once when a new oil I used for lubricati
  6. Hoi Sander, a question: what are the "cover photo" and "member title" fields in our profile? Is that the profile photo or avatar on each post? Or where do these show up if we add them?
  7. I haven't printed with nylon yet, thus no personal experience. So I can't say if the improved flexibility and toughness of nylon would outweight the disadvantages of poorer bed-adhesion, warping, and layer-bonding? This might greatly depend on the model and application. You will have to try. If it was for myself, I think I would start with PET and see if that works well enough. Or I might even start with PLA to get the model and fit right, and then switch to PET for the "production version" that has to survive.
  8. For snap-fit locking mechanisms, or for carabiner hooks, I use PET. This is flexible enough to survive multiple slight bendings, and it does not easily deform permanently. PET is less susceptible to creep deformation due to permanent loads than PLA, although just like any plastics, there is creep. PET is still relatively easy to print. PLA is not suitable: at first it may survive such snap-fits. But after a while it gets harder and more brittle, and then it will start to crack, or it might just break. And it has too much permanent creep deformation under load. If you wo
  9. I always do remove the old end, yes. And then I use those remains for atomic pulls to clean the nozzle, so they are not wasted. But I use a more gentle atomic pull method than the official, without brutal pulling. See the manual here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ I have tried welding new and old filaments together. Technically this works, but it is so much hassle that it is not worth the effort for me. Unless you would have a long and complex print that you don't want to restart, or you would waste way too much material. But I don't have these
  10. Thanks for your answer. I was not thinking of the voltage drop in the measuring wires (you are right, that will not be a problem indeed), but if the drop would be in the controller board, or already before that in the power supply? Then you could find out if it is the supply that is at fault (eg. too weak), or just the thin copper traces in the board itself? If it were too thin copper traces, maybe they could have been bridged by soldering a thick wire over it. That was why I asked. I am still an old-school guy with the desire to make all wiring armoured, and able to su
  11. I use cyanoacrylate glue for PLA, just the standard one. Usually after sanding or roughening the surface with a file. This works well. I also tried using an activator but that makes the glue cure too fast for good alignment. Thin glue tends to soak itself into tiny openings, so that helps covering the whole bonding area.
  12. Some filaments of silver, gold, pearl,... have glitter flakes in them to create that shiny effect. I think it is the orientation of the flakes, and thus differences in reflection, that cause this problem. You see this too in injection moulded shampoo bottles with such particles. Maybe the new "silk" filament colors could be an alternative? They also have a sort of metalic look. I haven't tried them, nor seen them in real life, but at least on photo they look great. Search for: "shiny silk 3d printing filament", or similar, and they view images.
  13. A question: where exactly did you measure this voltage drop? Was that directly on the connectors coming from the supply? Or further down in the circuit board? In the latter case, too thin wires on the board, or too excessive resistance in for example fuses or protection circuits on the board (if any?) could also contribute to the voltage drop. While in the first case, obviously, it is the power supply and/or its wiring itself that is causing the trouble. Since it seems that the bed-heater draws too much current, do you think people could solve this by keeping all current circuitry
  14. Is the printer still cooling down from before, or is it just always? It may take quite a long time to cool down, depending on the situation, the airflow, and the bed-temp of the previous print. Or could it be heat transfered from the electronics below, or a nearby heater, or sunlight? Behind a window in the sun, it can easily be 60°C, like in a car. I would say: in the morning, after being off for the night, measure the temp before switching it on. Then, without printing, measure again after half an hour or an hour. It should still be about room temp, maybe a little bit
  15. The cooling fan blows cold air onto the model and glass. In my tests this could give a local difference of up to 15°C on the glass plate for small models. This could be a major source of difference, as the sensor is at the bottom of the glass, not the top.
  16. I don't know your filament, but I have also seen this in other brands: especially high-filled colors - thus with lots of pigments, or special pigments - print differently from uncolored filament. For example I have seen this in white, yellow, light-green, black,...
  17. De standaardsettings zijn een goed gemiddelde. Maar voor zeer kleine voorwerpen, of als hoge nauwkeurigheid vereist is en je wilt in dunne lagen printen, kan je beter koeler en trager gaan. En omgekeerd: als je zeer snel wil printen in dikke lagen, kan je beter wat warmer gaan. Het is goed om dat in testprints eens uit te proberen, gewoon om inzicht en ervaring te krijgen in wat het precies doet. Maar als de standaard prima voldoet voor jouw modellen, is er inderdaad geen reden om ervan af te wijken. Over SketchUp: hier op het forum zien we de hele tijd modellen voorbij komen die m
  18. Ik zou zeggen: begin met kleine testprintjes, die niet te complex zijn. Blijf bij de printer en kijk nauwkeurig toe terwijl hij bezig is, zodat je een goed idee krijgt hoe alles werkt, en hoe de normale situatie is. Begin vanaf de standaardsettings, die zijn behoorlijk goed. Verhoog en verlaag dan de temperatuur in stapjes van 5°C terwijl de print loopt, via het Tune-menu, om te zien hoe de printer en het materiaal reageren. Print nooit te heet, want dan ontbindt en verbrandt het materiaal in de nozzle. Print ook niet te koud, want dan smelt het niet voldoende, en gaat
  19. Exellent idea. The difference is quality is huge. This is a trick to remember.
  20. Silver and pearl filaments contain particles that reflect light in different directions. It is the orientation of these particles that causes very visible lines. If you use a solid color that is not too high gloss, thus rather satin, and a little bit translucent (but only very slightly), the lines will be less visible. Another option would be to learn to live with this, consider it a normal aspect of 3D-printing. Like sand is rough, metal is shiny, etc... It's the way it is.
  21. Years ago I described my more gentle atomic pull method, but it also had a couple of other tips that I use. The main difference with the standard method, is that mine is much more gentle, less hard on the machine, but with equally good results. Regarding the amount of black residu on this pulled-out piece, it looks like the nozzle needs additional cleaning indeed. See here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ After doing an atomic pull, you should be able to see through the nozzle from above.
  22. If you make the baseplate a prism instead of flat, you could print it upside down. But the tip of the cone will always come out poor, due to insufficient cooling, so this will need some post-processing.
  23. When doing an atomic pull, you can often see if that part is deformed: if the edge between nozzle and coupler in the pulled-out filament has a thick blob, it is for sure damaged. In the photos below, the bottom orange one looks pretty good: this is okay. The other orange ones are hard to say, because of the deformation due to pulling. The blue one starts to show a bit of thickening where the teflon coupler would be. But the white one at the bottom has a huge sort of "blob-ring": here the teflon coupler is totally gone and needs replacement.
  24. Are the kathodes clamped in the mold, is it a sort of box, similar to a box for a camera filter or lens (e.g. UV-filter)? If so, I think I would rather go for something that can withstand rough handling during transport, and that still prints easy enough. PLA is hard but gets brittle, and snap-fits don't work well. Also it deforms in the sun, if left in a car, even in the trunk, outside of direct sunlight. It will keep deforming until the load and internal stresses are fully off. So, this might not be the best option? Maybe PET could be a choice, in its most
  25. It might depend on how deep the vacuum has to be? Not only the plasticizers might be a problem, but also water and plain air. For example nylon absorbs a lot of water very quickly, which means it goes through easily. Also, some plastics are not oil-tight nor airtight: oils and solvents might seep through, as well as atmospheric air. And what if it fractures? How big will it be, and how strong does it have to be? And what if it shatters: can that do harm or not? Big objects need to be incredibly strong. If it has to keep its vacuum for a longer time, I think you would be
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