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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. Yes, this is an impressive piece of art, both the modeling and the painting. And the printing.
  2. The bottoms of my parts generally look like these below. They seem to be squeezed considerably more into the glass, thus the nozzle being closer to the glass. If you could try that, it might improve overall bottom quality (if that would be desired). Concerning your very irregular corner: in addition to the possibility of the glass in that area being non-flat or greasy, as smithy says, I am wondering if this is the begin/end of the layer lines, or the landing/take-off zone if printing multiple parts? In that case I could imagine that the starting and stopping of the extrusion would
  3. You mean that dirty line going down? Could that be nozzle-leakage that is deposited? When printing PET, I have often seen that the nozzle leaks a little bit while traveling through air. And then on reaching the next wall, that drop is deposited on the side of the wall. On the next layer, another drop is deposited. And so on. If material accumulates on the outside of the nozzle, that could sag and also get deposited as blobs on the print. Not sure this is the cause, but it seems a possibility? I would say: just keep watching closely what happens while printin
  4. Yes, I can also see the reasoning from the radiologist. However, I am not sure that he is fully aware of the porosities, layer lines, PLA-degradation, and occasional blobs and strings in FDM 3D-prints, which could cause discomfort and health risks, and which require post-processing. Most collegues who ask me to 3D-print something, aren't aware of these, so I have several test pieces sitting around to show the typical limitations. Maybe the best is to just try all options, and see what works best? - a hard 3D-printed shell - a soft silicone liner (for comfort), insi
  5. This fascinating organic modeling style now slowly seems to become more mainstream. In a recent robot wars series (Battle Bots 2019, USA) there was a robot Quantum in this style (at left, after it won and threw the other bot out of the arena). Its beak can crush with several tons of force. This is a low-resolution screendump, but you can still see the beauty. These fighter robots are often brilliant pieces of engineering.
  6. Yes, you should start moulding on a printed model or on a testpiece anyway, until you have the procedure in your fingers. Don't experiment on sensitive persons. The application of liquid silicone itself on the hand would probably cause no problems, it is just a thick liquid. But the removal of the cured silicone might: you would have to pull and slide that cured silicone off, or cut it off by going under it with scissors. Both will require some force and shear action: in a normal person this is no problem, but on a very sensitive or weak skin it could do mechanical damage. I would
  7. I believe most 3D-printed full color models are painted or plated afterwards, like the excellent art we see from kmanstudios and cloakfiend. Full color models produced directly on a gypsum-powder based 3D-printer tend to have a quite rough structure, like sandstone. Like any gypsum model. After printing they are impregnated with a cyanoacrylate glue to make them stronger and smoother. But it is still gypsum, so if you drop it, it chips or breaks like gypsum. But if you would be a good traditional sculptor (=in sculpting by hand), but have no experience with 3D-sculpting
  8. What about "painting" a glove onto her hands? The first idea is of course latex, but that might *not* be a good choice because it could cause allergies, due to the enzymes it contains. And latex is said to shrink upon drying, so it might cause discomfort. I would not recommend this. Maybe painting liquid and reasonable fast curing silicone onto her hands might work? Silicone is relatively inert chemically, and it is also used in dentistry, and in arts: most soft masks and fake wounds are made from silicone. Be sure to use platinum-cured silicone (=addition cured), not t
  9. It was also my understanding that PLA-smoothing with acetone was due to modifiers, not the PLA itself. But for making our silicone moulds, it works well enough, and it doesn't destroy details. I haven't tried chloroform yet. Have you tried burning colorFabb PLA/PHA Natural (=uncolored)? When I tried burning it in a spoon in a bunsen burner a couple of years ago, it left a little bit of black powder dust, but not much. It could easily be wiped off. Contrary to for example PET which left a thick, glossy, enamel-like coating which was very hard to remove. For the tine holes in
  10. Not a solution, but maybe a workaround: if you would print in PLA, have you tried smoothing it with acetone or other chemicals? See the thread and photos of user cloakfiend on acetone-smoothing of PLA on this forum: he has done hundreds of models with excellent results. I also have done a couple of tests on colorFabb PLA/PHA: a quick brush-on of acetone tends to fill the little gaps and layer lines. But it does not fill larger gaps, nor removes features or defects like blobs and strings. See the photos. Top orange: untreated, has small openings due to minor
  11. Ik zie je vraag nu pas. Het antwoord is simpel: gewoon uitproberen... Begin met de standaardwaarden: voor mijn printers (Ultimaker 2) was dat voor PLA: 210°C, 50mm/s, bed 60°C. En dan een testprintje maken, en tijdens het printen in stapjes van 5°C de temperatuur verlagen en verhogen, en gewoon zien wat voor effect het heeft. Idem voor de snelheid, in stapjes van 10mm/s. Voor fijne modellen gebruik ik dikwijls: 25mm/s bij 195°C, 0.1mm layers. Voor ruwere modellen en 0.2mm layers blijf ik bij de standaard. Bed temperatuur blijf je beter af: benede
  12. In a plaintext editor, search for "[space] e???? [space]" or something like that, using wildcards, and delete them all? Or set them to zero? I don't know if it would work, but might be worth a try?
  13. My first idea was also: poor bed-adhesion in that spot, maybe due to the nozzle being too far away. But if it is always and only in one corner of the model, no matter where it is put on the build plate, maybe it could also be mechanical stuttering or excessive play, when changing direction? Or both?
  14. I think it was 80°C, maybe 85°C, something around that. If you would have binoculars, or a telescope, you could try to hold them upside-down with the ocular very close to the model, close to a bright light. Quality won't be good, and you will get a lot of deformation, but it might be good enough for inspection. A telescope works exactly opposite to a microscope: the lenses are swapped (and in real life of course adapted for minimal distortion). In a microscope the little, most curved lense is close to the object, and the flattest and big lense is the ocular. For people
  15. If the filament is swollen above the nozzle and teflon coupler, could it be that your little fan that does not work (=the one behind the nozzle)? Sometimes, strands and hairs of molten filament get sucked up in it, and slow it down. Anyway, if you would want to do atomic pulls, but in a much more gentle way without brute force, you could try my old manual: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ And then scroll down a little bit. This works by cooling deeper, and then gently wiggling and rotating, instead of brutal pulling. No ris
  16. Is it scratching the surface, or is it entrapping air bubbles inbetween both layers, when seen through a microscope? This also makes it opaque like frosted glass. I only have seen the entrapping in my tests: mostly in the seems between the little sausages, sometimes on top of surfaces as the top layer is not perfectly flat. (In case you don't have a microscope, sometimes a high-resolution camera with powerfull macro lens can also show this, better than with the naked eye.)
  17. Try using standard nylon hardware: there do already exist thousands of different things: screws, pins, nuts, clamps,... These will be much stronger, have a stable size, require almost no post-processing, and in the end be much cheaper. Maybe these will fit, or only require minor changes to your models to fit? In Belgium and the Netherlands, Essentra Components (previously Skiffy) has a good range. But also RS Components, Farnell and lots of others do. https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-nl If you want to print it yourself: - If you print it hor
  18. Older versions of Cura don't allow parts to overlap: if you place them too close together, one will jump away to a safe distance. I don't know how the most recent versions do this, probably the same? Most of the time I place all models into one CAD file, so Cura sees it as one model. For their placement, I use common sense: I place them as close together as practical, so that they won't fuse, and so that I can still grab and wiggle individual parts to remove them. For narrow but high parts (e.g. vertical rods), I make sure the brim overlaps, which gives much more stability against fal
  19. I believe it often has to do with "the shortest distance between the end of the current item, and the next item". So when the nozzle finishes one item, it will search for which next item is closest by from its current position. I think... Correct me if I have this wrong. At least, I found that carefull aligning indeed helps often, but not always, to improve printing order. As Cymon said above, I would also align the long items much compacter, maybe even so close to each other that their brims overlap so they combine into one big brim. Gives less travel time, less leakin
  20. A few years ago there have been discussions among people using ceramic plates or tiles instead of glass? I don't know if that has been developed further, and if it could be a solution?
  21. I doubt if 3D-printed plastic moulds can handle the mechanical load? I have had two-component resin parts shattered and flying all across the room when subjected to a load of only 5kN (500kg). Most injection moulding machines go up to metric tons. You would also need to polish the mould-surfaces quite well to be able to release the parts, removing all layer lines, and you probably still need to use a lot of release spray. But it might work for making chocolat or gummy bears though... :-) If it would be for industrial/prototyping use, what about a cheap aluminum protot
  22. There do exist wrenches that grip on the sides of the nuts, not on the corners: these can be used to remove damaged rounded nuts and bolts. Search for "metrinch". If I remember well, the name comes from the fact that these can be used for both metric and imperial sizes. Anyway, be sure to use two such tools to grab both sides, so you don't apply torque to parts that can not handle it.
  23. Good idea. Such scales should have been moulded-in on each spool, for both 2.85mm and 1.75mm filaments. That could easily have been done.
  24. Heb je alle punten op gr5's checklist al geprobeerd? Die is ergens te vinden op dit forum, maar ik weet niet precies waar. Daarop staan zowat alle mogelijke oorzaken. Ik zou in de eerste plaats denken aan versleten teflon coupler, 3e fan (kleintje achteraan) die niet goed werkt, te dik of slecht filament, te snel of te koud (voor die snelheid) printen. Maar er zijn er nog tientallen.
  25. Indeed, years ago when deciding if and how we were going to step into 3D-modeling and printing, a brand with a good forum was a make-or-break point for us (this in addition of course to other breakpoints like: open filament system, multiple materials, relatively open source, good availability of spare parts, nearby dealer,...). We knew that the learning curve would be high, that we might run into problems, and that we might need expert advice from more experienced users. So before deciding on any printer, I visited the forums first. And I went to see the dealer.
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