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geert_2

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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. What if you put a piece of plastic or cardboard in the front opening, like a sort of primitive door, but with a few holes in it? So there is some circulation to evacuate the heat, but not too much? At least, cardboard is cheap, so it could be a good test to see if this really is the cause, and not something else that happened to occur at the same moment (e.g. dirty, oily glass).
  2. In cold very dry winter weather when it is freezing outside, I have this too on my two UM2. But I also have it when touching the buttons of the elevator, the metal frame of the fume extraction cabinet, etc... Sometimes it causes sparks up to 10mm. We have a composite resin floor here, which seem to worsen the problem. In summer or in moist winter weather, there is no problem, thus it is clearly static charge. Touching the metal with the back of your hand is less painfull, since there are less nerves. Or touch it through clothes first, with your elbow, for example. Also, I have connected a *very high* ohm resistor to ground in a nearby wall socket. If I touch that first (if I don't forget), it discharges me. Maybe placing antistatic rubber mats on the floor, properly connected to earth, and using antistatic wrist wraps or similar, might also help? In het 1980s, we had big graphic supercomputers which also had that problem (and then the computer would reset and reboot). So, one customer solved that by watering the carpet with his plant watering can every morning. Not good for the carpet, but better for his business than losing his work every few minutes. :-)
  3. I have no experience with flexible materials, so can't really help. But what if you disconnect the bowden tube at both ends, and manually try to push this filament through? And then reconnect it at the nozzle-end, heat up the nozzle, and try again, thus manually pushing from the back? Also, manually feed filament directly into the nozzle while it is hot. Maybe these tests might give you an indication and a feel for the amount of friction and resistance?
  4. I like the fine and inventive engineering of this, with that geneva switching mechanism, leak guards, airflow directors, etc... If you could indeed make it more compact, it has the potential to become a hit, I think. Very well done.
  5. Thanks for that link. Remarkable that they achieve best transparency by doing exactly the opposite of what is usually recommended: very thin instead of very thick layers. I am going to try that next time I print in transparent PET.
  6. The grease is for the Z-screw only, not for the X- and Y-rods, nor the Z-rods. The Z-rods need no oil at all, if I understood well, since they have linear recirculating ball bearings inside (I don't know the proper English term). The X- and Y-rods need some light oil, like for bikes or sewing machines (but not dislodging oil, thus no WD-40 or similar). Although I use an hydraulic oil for fine hydraulic machines, because I have plenty of it in spare, and it does not dry out at all, and it lubricates well. I found that the sewing machine oil I first tried, dried out too soon into a sticky layer. But that doesn't explain vibrations at the rear side of the model only, when the model is sitting in front of the printer, indeed. Or do the vibrations only occur when traveling from left to right, and not from right to left (or vice-versa)? So there would only be stuttering in one direction? I would try to further diagnose by manually moving the nozzle, with the printer off.
  7. I would not use a hair dryer: this tends to melt the filament, and then it shrinks in length but becomes much thicker in width. Similar to when you heat a piece of plastic above a flame (without it catching fire): it shrinks into a ball. This may actually worsen the problem. I would rather ply the kinks in the opposite direction by hand, very carefully. Or ply that bend in the opposite direction around a tube or something similar, to not overdo it. In my experience, it does not have to be perfect, but just good enough to not cause too much friction in the bowden tube and nozzle anymore.
  8. Yes, this is an attractive model. I was also wondering: what is painted, and what is purely 3D-printed, like the gold for example?
  9. Yes, this is a good advice. Make a compact test bloc with a lot of different screw threads in steps of 0.1mm or so. And print that in different materials, speeds, and temperatures.
  10. Did you check if the rods are well oiled? With the printer off, if you move the head by hand, it should move reasonably smoothly in all directions. At least, if it is an Ultimaker; I don't know about other brands with other drive mechanisms. If it would only be a visual effect, without mechanical shaking (especially in an Ultimaker2), it could be caused by a tight bending radius of the filament (e.g. near the end of the spool), causing a lot of friction in the nozzle and bowden tube, and thus causing underextrusion?
  11. Het zou kunnen dat de nozzle verstropt is. Dan moet je die proper maken met zogenaamde "atomic pulls" of cold pulls. De procedure kan je vinden op de Ultimaker site. Of je kan het evtl. ook proberen met mijn procedure. Zie hier (en scroll een beetje omlaag tot "gentle atomic pull"): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Er kunnen ook nog andere oorzaken zijn, maar daarvoor google je best even op het forum.
  12. I have no experience with it, but PP is said to be difficult to print (warping + hard to stick to the bed). Have you considered PET? It is somewhat chemically resistant too, can handle higher temperatures (~80°C) and it still prints rather easily.
  13. You can always make a model solid if you select 100% infill, or if you make the walls thicker than the model itself. Except that solid is not perfectly solid: there will always be tiny gaps inbetween the extruded saugages. Printing slow minimises them, but does not eliminate them. To make a wall print reliably, I always make all walls minimum 0.5mm wide in the CAD-design, for my 0.4mm fixed size nozzles (old UM2). When the file is exported to STL, smooth corners are cut into straight segments. So, in some spots a 0.40mm wall might become 0.41mm, and in others it might be 0.39mm, which in older slicer versions lead to that part not being printed because it was too thin (less than 0.4mm). So now I just stay on the safe side, and 0.5mm also works well on a design grid. (I don't know how newer slicer versions handle this, I haven't tried.) Yes, I did make a lamp shade, but printed it in PET for better temperature resistance, and for translucency. There is a LED lamp inside now. Do not use PLA, even not for LED-lamps, CFL- or TL-lamps: they still go higher than 50°C. And even with PET (or any other higher temp material), allow air flow and some distance. All lamps are designed with some free airflow around them in mind. And even then, some of my LED spots still get to ca. 100°C (so I wonder how long they will live, definitely not the advertised 25000...50000 hours). Never use 3D-printed parts for incandescent lamps: at best the plastic leaks away, at worst it could catch fire and burn down your whole house. These need heat resistant bakelite, porcelain, or similar.
  14. I never got small threads to print reliably, without a lot of post processing. And also tapping threads in PLA didn't work: everything melted, even with good lubrication and very slow movements, and the threads were very weak anyway. It wasn't worth the effort for me. So, now I usually design a slot in which I can drop a nylon nut, and use a nylon screw. Sometimes I provide a sort of retention, so that the nut can not fall out if the screw is totally removed. Needs no post processing at all. See the pics (these are M4). Or if the thing needs to be locked only once, a snap fit also works. But it is likely to break if unlocked after some time, as the PLA gets harder and more brittle. This is probably not the answer you are looking for, but it might be an alternative in some cases...
  15. What about the indicators that flip from blue to pink at a certain moisture level? These seem to be quite stable, until the stuff gets defect and becomes yellow-brown instead of blue/pink. But I have no idea at which level they flip over, nor what the hysteresis is, if any...
  16. Ah okee, I see. Yes, then it rather looks like a problem in the motors, wires, or drivers indeed. But that is out of my experience...
  17. Crazy or not, the light works really well for this nice model, I think.
  18. Thanks for the clarification. I think the gyroids add an extra dimension to the typical fluidness (I don't know a better English word) of your designs. It fits well together. I wonder how long it will take before industrial designers are going to try gyroids in overmoulding, in their injection moulded tooth brushes, decorative vases and statues, and sex toys indeed? Sort of gyroids, because you can't injection mould cavities with deep undercuts of course. With misty, translucent materials the effect might work. I haven't seen anything like this yet, apart from marbles.
  19. Do I understand it correctly that for the first model (the red dancer) you split the original model into multiple models? Thus into a sort of "shell model" and an "infill model" (or multiple infill models). And then adjust each one separately to your desires? And then have them printed all in one shot with different colors and settings? Does your method also work with fine layer heights (like 0.06mm...0.1mm), 0.4mm nozzle, and double wall shells? Or would that diffract and reflect the light flow too much? For example if you wanted to smooth the edges with acetone like cloakfiend's method?
  20. There is a very good film of user gr5 on bonding and warping issues (both are related). Try searching this forum for it; it is posted in several topic (but I don't know them by head).
  21. That toc-toc sound might also come from the nozzle being blocked, so the filament can not move, or not enough, and the stepper skips steps? Or it could be a build-in protection, to prevent the feeder from grinding the filament in case of a blocked nozzle. The old UM2 also has this feature, and when the nozzle is blocked, or you try to extrude too much material too fast, it also makes this sound while the feeder steps back. I am not saying that this is the case in your printer (I don't know that model), but it might be worth looking into, just as another option on the list?
  22. Yes this is a good idea too. In addition to marking the pulleys with a marker as gr5 says, to check for looseness, also try moving the print head manually when the printer is switched off. It should move smoothly in all directions, without excessive friction. Too much friction will cause the stepper motor to skip steps, or will force the pulleys to slip, whatever comes first. Once they start to slip, next time they will slip easier. (At least, that is my experience with motors and gears in model trains, but the concept is the same. I haven't had problems with my UM2 yet, but I keep the rods well lubricated).
  23. Steep overhangs need support: the material needs something to stick to. Otherwise the printer is extruding spaghetti in the air, which is what you see here. There are several solutions: - Use the standard support settings in the slicer (Cura or whatever slicer you use). - Design your own custom supports in CAD into the model. This is what I prefer due to my often complex models. - Or design the model in such a way that there are no steep overhangs at all, and thus supports are not needed. Here you see a few support methods I regularly use, and which are designed to make their removal easier:
  24. Thanks for the feedback. It could be helpfull for other people who do hardware modifications too.
  25. You say it only happens when using Cura, but not when using the SD-card? - Does this mean that the problem is only when printing via USB, from within Cura? - Or does it also occur when you save that gcode file from Cura to hard disk, and then copy it to SD-card? - Is there a difference between saving to hard disk first, and then copying to SD-card, or saving directly to SD-card? - Or do you use a totally different slicer (instead of Cura) when using the SD-card? Could be that printing via USB makes a difference, for whatever reason?
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