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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. I don't know Polymax, so I can't comment on that. But maybe you could also look into the opposite? Could it be that it is electrostatically charged too much, and that this causes malfunctioning? Most plastics charge up easily. This could especially be a problem if the board would contain CMOS or similar stuff, with open pins, or circuits with very high input resistances? If dust and little pieces of plastic debris easily get stuck on the model, it is probably charged up. Apart from other possible reasons of course, like a broken soldering, broken copper trace, or wire?
  2. What I always do before inserting any filament, is (1) manually straighten it, and (2) cut off the end with a sharp tool, in an angle of ca. 60°, so it gets a very sharp point. This feeds well.
  3. Maybe you at Ultimaker could ask a few samples to try them in your test lab? Might benefit both parties?
  4. I think these strings are what I call a sort of "landing strings". I don't know if there is an official term for it. What I mean is that while traveling through air, the nozzle may leak a bit, and when encountering the next wall, that little drop is deposited on the side of that wall. On the next layer, the leaking drop is deposited on the previous drop. And then on that drop. And so on, causing weird upwards and outwards going strings, like insect antennas. It is a guess, but it is the only thing I can think of. I do not have a good solution, but any solution (if this is indeed th
  5. If you are printing PLA, you could try my "salt method". First, thoroughly clean the glass: you can use isopropyl alcolhol or whatever to remove oils and other dirt. And then clean again several times with pure warm water only (no soap, no alcohols, no thinners anymore, because soap reduces bonding and cheap alcohols or thinners might contain traces of oils, which also reduce bonding). Then wipe the glass plate with a tissue moistened with salt water. Gently keep wiping while it dries into a thin, almost invisible mist of salt. This gives a good bonding while hot, but absolutely no
  6. I am from Belgium, Flanders, but we also speak Dutch here.
  7. @skc5741: The above "tiny real model" is a 10mm x 10mm x 10mm block, plus extension of 3mm x 3mm x 5mm on top. I will add these dimensions to the drawing for clarity. You are totally right that the dummy is waste, but otherwise the model can't be printed well (unless I would print 4 at once, which is not always desirable). So it wastes less than discarding too many real but malformed models. That is the idea. Dummies are only required for tiny models. Once the model gets a bit larger, lets say 20mm x 20mm, this is no longer necessary usually, because each layer has enough cooling t
  8. You could design the supports manually, as part of the design process, and disable the automatic generation in the slicer. I often do this, due to the specific requirements of my models. Then you can design-in all sorts of methods to make removal easier, for example extensions so you can use pliers, or holes so you can insert hooks to pull. Or you can add ribs to reduce space and improve quality, etc. See the examples below (these are all very small models, order of magnitude 10mm high). Try this on a couple of small samples first, untill you have it perfect, before wasting a 5 day print.
  9. Maybe it is also an option to print the disks and column separately, and glue them together? This might give a better surface quality and go faster than printing with support. In that case, design some guidance into the parts, so they line-up correctly.
  10. This question comes up often enough to draw a quick demo in DesignSpark Mechanical, just to show the concept. Much easier to explain, and takes less time than typing. So, here it is: This is how I do it. But of course, depending on the models, dimensions, and materials, all sorts of derivations and approximations might work equally well. The dummy cooling towers are waste, or could be re-used as "hotels" in Monopoly or other games.
  11. Obviously, your pyramid has this problem: This is due to not enough layer cooling time, because the hot nozzle is printing on a tiny area only, and it keeps radiating lots of heat. So the model can't cool down and can't solidify. These models were designed just to test that. The left models are printed separately, the right ones are printed cone+tower together. Dimensions (numbers) are centimeters: the cones are 2cm high and wide. The tower is 1cm x 1cm, which obviously is not yet enough: the edges still curl up in the white one, as soon as it has finished printing t
  12. Depending on the amount you need, you might also consider casting them. First design and print an original, or a mould, and then cast as much as you need. Or a combination of both 3D-printing and casting. When casting, you could use other materials too like gypsum or concrete, which can be a bit porous for water and air. Depending on the application, this might be an advantage (allows irrigation, or removal of excess water), or a disadvantage (might leak). Casting is a very educative process too for kids and teenagers, most like it. (Search on Youtube for lots of good mould making
  13. I don't know the official answer, but just from general computer experience: if this is on a Windows computer, could it be a filetype association issue? Try rightclicking on the obj file and "open with...", and then chose your preferred slicer. Or else try changing the filetype associations. Google for how to do this, as the method may differ in every Windows-version and language, especially on newer Windows 8...10.
  14. Ultimaker has the new hard "breakaway" support material, maybe that could work? Also, another option is to use ABS itself as support for ABS, by designing the supports as part of the model, in the old way like for single nozzle printers. Concerning boxes: if you like to design one yourself just for the fun of it, or for a limited space, you could look for food boxes or freezer boxes to start from. They do exist in a lot of different sizes. Although I think the real cost is going to be more than the Polymaker box, with less functionality probably.
  15. I have also noticed that when the nozzle is just waiting outside of the model, this may cause little defects due to the nozzle leaking, or due to its "take off" from the model, and due to the no-flow in the nozzle, which causes higher temps and thus more liquid material. Also sudden changes in layer area show up due to huge differences in cooling time. That is why I usually print a dummy model next to the real model, when printing time is too little for good layer cooling. Instead of using the minimum layer time feature. Ideally, the dummy model would have the inverse layer area of
  16. Might also be a combination of speed and hitting something, like a curled-up edge of an overhang, which caused it to miss a step?
  17. An advantage of open source models is that you can buy components from other manufacturers too, if it would ever be necessary. This was one of our main concerns a few years ago and an important reason for selecting the Ultimaker2, instead of a closed source model of comparable quality. Because this market is still very young and volatile (it was especially 2 years ago). And indeed, some of our collegues also had bad experiences with customer service of very expensive closed source printers (60000 euro...), in Europe, so I understand your concern. Whatever you buy, I would suggest:
  18. I have used PET (or is that PETG?) from the brand ICE. This has an indicated temp range of: 215°C...250°C. I found that it prints well at 220 to 225°C. Lower temp causes underextrusion, higher causes too much stringing and hairs. Layer bonding is quite good when printing slow: 25...30mm/s, if using no fans. I use no brims, no raft. Heated bed: ca. 80...90°C. At 70...80°C it comes off and warps, so 10°C more made a huge difference in sticking. To prevent warping, I print with fans off, on bare glass. No treatment of the glass, except from cleaning well (no soap, no detergents, only
  19. 3D-printed PLA may be more sturdy than ABS, because it has a much better layer bonding. It is less likely to split suddenly. I am often surprised at how much abuse my PLA models can have. Under load, they often survive longer than identical PET or NGEN models. But PLA has a couple of problems too, in my experience: - In a hot car, or even in direct sunlight, it *will warp*, no doubt. So keep it out of the sun and out of hot cars and similar areas. Unless you use high-temp PLA. - After a year or so, PLA gets harder and more brittle. It can still withstand quite some abuse, but it will
  20. This sort of holes can easily be done in CAD: design one hole, and then repeat that in a pattern in both directions. This sift (for a laboratory sink) is ca. 50mm diameter. But it does not print easily: too much jumping and retracting. Making a solid plate and printing it with ca. 70% to 80% infill (try it) like gr5 says, would give much smaller holes, and will be quite strong, but it will have a *very high* resistance to airflow. So it all depends on the exact purpose. Maybe you would be better off printing a sturdy housing only, with big openings, and then put some standard proven air filter
  21. I haven't used CPE, but some PET I tried from a different brand, also had similar oozing and blobbing characteristics. These blobs came about due to the material sticking to the nozzle, accumulating, and then sagging onto the print. This caused brown blobs, and strings and hairs as the nozzle ran through it. Molten PLA is more like yoghurt, while that particualr PET was more sticky like halfway between honey and bubble-gum. Printing slower and cooler helped (caused less accumulation on the nozzle), but did not eliminate it.
  22. That should work; I have done similar text and key chains with success. And without brims. Try my "salt method" for bonding PLA. Or try gr5's method (10% wood glue dilluted in water), or neotko's method (hair spray), depending on what you like/dislike most. As first layer, I use 0.2mm, and a good bed leveling, so this first layer is pushed well into the bed. For my salt method, see: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Another option would be to make "watermark text", totally inside the model. Then you can have a 100% filled base layer without issues.
  23. For acetone smoothing ABS, I have seen videos on Youtube where people put kitchen tissue paper, or an old newspaper, all over the sides of the container. Then they poured in some acetone and let it soak into the paper. And then they hung the model in this container, without touching the walls. In this way, the acetone vapour comes from everywhere around the model, not just from the bottom of the jar. This gave a much more equal distribution, and thus better smoothing result, without need to cook the acetone (thus less risk of explosion, but be carefull anyway, since acetone is more explosive t
  24. I can imagine this would fit very well in a modern minimalistic interior. It is an eye-catcher. I guess sooner or later someone is going to pick up this idea and commercialise it. So you might as well try and sell it first to the Expresso (or other) manufacturers.
  25. Is there a way to increase the "auto-logout" time from the forum? I would prefer a logout-time of ca. 4 hours. Currently, it seems to be one hour? It still happens occasionally that I have to login again when posting. But at least, we don't lose the text anymore, after login-in again, it is redisplayed correctly. I don't use functions like "remember me" or "remember password" or similar, since it causes forgetting passwords, and it may cause security issues when you are logged-in automatically (not really important here, but may be on other sites, so it's a bad habbit).
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