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geert_2

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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. I have tried these: - PLA, orange and white: bright colors, printed very nice and smooth, but stuck a little bit less to the glass than Ultimaker or colorFabb PLA when using my "salt method" (=wiping glass with tissue moistened with salt water). Seemed to be slightly less temperature resistant than other PLA. Otherwise no problems. Prints at standard speeds and temps. When burning pieces in a metal spoon on a bunsen-burner, it leaves very little black ash: just a little bit of dry, loose powder that can easily be wiped off. So, the same can be expected in the nozzle.
  2. I think the extra width that you measure might come from ringing- and thickening-effects around corners? When slowing down to take a corner, the nozzle inside pressure does not immediately drop, it lags, so the nozzle extrudes a bit too much compared to the now slower speed. This makes corners thicker. Analog for ringing, sine-wave mechanical oscillations around corners. This could easily explain 0.2mm extra width. Also blobs and overextrusion could explain that, if they would be present. Also, "elephant feet", the sagging of the first layers, could make a model seem wider than it is, if you m
  3. You can always disable all brim in Cura, and design your own in CAD, exactly how and where you want it. I often do this when I want some features to have brim, and others not, or if I need irregular brim.
  4. I would say: start by marking all pulleys, belts, etc. with a marker. And see if they move relatively to each other. Or otherwise, check if the driver-chips don't get too hot (e.g. cooling fan not working, vents blocked), so they do a temporary thermal shutdown, until temp drops again to a safe level. Check if the cables to the steppers are okay, no bad contacts? These are the first things that come to mind, but I don't know your printer, so there could be other issues.
  5. Are you sure that nesting them reduces printing time? Printing the required support material for separation also takes time, and it increases the risk of failures, which also cost time. If you would use two glass plates, and preheat one while the other is printing, so you can switch glasses immediately after completion, it might go faster? Might be worth comparing both?
  6. I would at least try a couple in PLA. I have seen others who made things in PLA for emergency use too, recently. And I have also made prototypes in PLA for single use, to be desinfected with the usual 70% alcohol, or with some sort of chlorine solution (not sure about exact formula). 3D-printed tools are never optimal due to the pores, voids, and irregularities that collect "finger-mud". But this is for all materials, even PET and nylon. So you should make people aware that this is only an emergency solution, and that these pores are the draw-backs of this technology.
  7. Hoi Anders, Do you also have data on *how long* a mask can be weared? Ours were chemical gas masks with filters depending on the industrial chemicals. As soon as the active stuff (e.g. active carbon) in the filter would run out, the filter had to be replaced. This was usually not very long: 30 min ... 1 hour, or so, depending on the filter, the gas concentration and the invironment. But that was 35 years ago, and products and rules may have changed a lot since then. I am particularly wondering on how long a medical mask can be weared before bacteria start to grow wildly
  8. What does it do if you make wall thickness 0.41 or 0.42mm? When making small text, I make the legs 0.5mm wide instead of 0.4mm, to avoid gaps when the STL might make the walls just a little bit thinner than 0.4mm in corners (and cause gaps), due to the triangles. But I am using an older Cura version, so I don't know how the newer versions handle this.
  9. If you want to make videos (=editing, cutting, adding text, effects), a good freeware editor is "Shotcut". This is in heavy development and making fast progress. Almost as powerfull as professional editors, but currently not yet as stable: so you need to save projects regularly [Ctrl S] in case of a crash. It is very easy to learn and handy, and it does not eat too much computer resources. There are a lot of good tutorials on Youtube. Watch them first, to see if it appeals to you. For publishing of course you have all the Youtubes, Vimeos, and others. Just be aware that they may k
  10. Before printing hundreds, print one and carefully test if it really fits and closes well. Cover the front opening (filter opening) with your flat hand, and try breathing: it should be *absolutely impossible* to inhale, and your body should immediately go into panick-mode. However, if you can still inhale with the front opening closed, it leaks sideways, and would not protect well and cause a false sense of security. I have seen too many dust masks (like for painting) that did not work at all. The real gas masks we used in the chemical industry were a lot big
  11. I have seen them on Youtube, maybe your best option is to search for reviews there? Could be on the CNC kitchen channel, or Makersmuse? Or was it that Bernaculus Nerdgasm guy, or something like that? I don't remember...
  12. I would say: make the holes slightly smaller, and drill them out manually with a drill that is still 0.1 or 0.2mm smaller than the desired size. Maybe you could also design a simple 3D-printed retention clip into the case? Try various dimensions on a small test piece first.
  13. For my UM2, I made a nozzle scraper from steel spring wire, after an idea from another user. The very hard inox wire that is also used in dental appliances. In 99% of cases, this works perfectly. Since it is a spring, it moves away when the nozzle moves over it. It doesn't cause any damage.
  14. I also drill out the holes, with this tool. It only costs a couple of euro/dollar in any tool shop. This gives good feeling and control. Do it manually, not electrically, otherwise everything melts (don't ask how I know).
  15. Hope you can read English? To let the model cool and solidify, the head needs to be moved away indeed. But while sitting elsewhere, it should keep printing at the same flow rate, so the material in the nozzle keeps the same temperture and viscosity. So I often print a dummy model next to the real one, that has a complementary shape. So the total printing time per layer is always the same. See the examples below: first the concept, then two parts of real models.
  16. These are nice models, especially the highest one. Here this is called a "castle-villa" ("kasteelvilla" in Dutch). One question: why do most architects and urban designers use white as color for models? Why not more natural colors in various shades like sandstone, warm grey, etc.?
  17. You should make one in which you can insert your smartphone, so it can actually be used. With a slider system. That would be really cool. :-) It might require a bit adaptation of dimensions, but as long as it is immediately recognisable...
  18. The one I saw on photo, didn't have any attachments. The tube was cut to the correct length. And then by friction from unwinding, it was pulled towards the feeder, sort of, so it closed the gap. But I don't remember from who this was.
  19. You could design a sort of venting hole from the top of the magnet, to the hole in which you pour-in the resin. Or better two holes: one filling-canal, and one venting canal. Similar to those used in metal casting. However, if the magnet is totally surrounded by plastic, and that is impregnated with resin, I don't see how the magnet could be damaged. It might rattle a bit, but metal is harder than plastic. Another approach might be if you design a sort of springs or vanes into the hole. So, when you push-in the magnet, these vanes keep it centered and gently clamp it. S
  20. In daily life, I don't clean it. Well, I only clean it less than once a year. First wipe with alcohol, and then thoroughly wash again with pure handwarm tap water only. Then wipe dry with a paper towel. So, in daily life, I don't clean it for 99.7% of the time. I don't use soaps as they reduce bonding. Also, cheap industrial solvents might leave residues that reduce bonding: there is a lot of variation. I tried these things in the very beginning, but now I don't use them anymore. They didn't work for me. But before each print, I do wipe the glass with a tiss
  21. Your image didn't come through. Normally, in Windows you can just drag and drop an image from the Explorer into this editing box. Or copy and paste from image viewers like IrfanView, or from Windows Clipping Tool. Could you try that again?
  22. If the automatic functions don't work well for your particular situation, you can design your own supports in CAD, so they become part of the model. Then you can implement anything you want: holes to insert hooks and pliers for better removal, gaps, ribs, hanging supports,... I only have single nozzle printers (UM2), so my supports are in the same material as the model. But for dual nozzle machines, you could design for separate materials. A few concepts I have used or considered in the past:
  23. Making a fine print from the original gcode, and then sand, smooth and paint that. And then 3D-scan and digitize that 3D-model? Would that be an option? Then at least you have a nice original to start from. But even when people leave a company in bad terms, you might be able to get them to cooperate, if you were not personally involved in the conflict too much. Most people can make that distinction. Also, doing a thorough search on STL, OBJ, and whatever else files on servers and local computers might give some results. Do this from a bootable stick, so you get around W
  24. You can always design (one of) them in CAD, and consider it part of your model. But for printing, using both has no practical meaning as far as I know.
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