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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. In addition to searching the forums and reviews, I would suggest that you design a few small test models that include all your specific questions or items. Then go to a club, 3d-hub, or dealer who has those printer, and have the models printed while attending it. Have the owner explain stuff while watching the process. Of course you will need to pay for the materials and time this takes, but it will be a good investment. You can see if it matches your expectations or needs.
  2. If you buy cyano-acrylate glue for glueing parts together, try to find one with an activator. That is a separate tube with felt tip (like a marker pen) with which you need to wipe the plastic, then let the "ink" dry for a minute, and then glue as usual. This activator improves bonding of plastics. In Belgium you find them in the local supermarkets like Delhaize (among the school things), or in Brico-shops.
  3. My first idea too was to try nylon. But maybe PET or PETG would have a better layer bonding, and they are still relatively flexible? You don't easily break a PET bottle when dropping it. And PET is easier to print and has a better bed adhesion. I think it will also depend a lot on the shape, whether that is able to absorb any shocks, and to distribute the load, without high local concentrations of forces. Try smashing the part into a concrete wall to test it. Would be interesting if you could post a few photos of the results.
  4. I use Pale Moon 26.0.0 as browser. This is a Firefox-derivation that kept the classic menu bar and status bar. No add-ons. Operating system: Windows 7 professional, English. After logging-in, I usually open several tabs by middle clicking on interesting topic titles in the forum list. And then I open each tab and read the topic. Before I begin reading a topic or typing a reply, I reload the current tab to avoid this auto-logout (which is a bit inconvenient by itself). But sometimes that obviously doesn't work. I haven't timed how long it takes before I get logged-out. It feels like 20 mi
  5. You could try DesignSpark Mechanical as modeler: it is freeware (requires registration) from RS Components, and is actually a limited version of SpaceClaim. Its method of direct modeling by pulling on things is the same as in SketchUp, so the learning curve is relatively low. And with a bit of searching, you can find several good instruction videos.
  6. Hoi Sander & co, Could you increase the auto-logout time of the forum? Now it regularly happens that I get logged-out and lose a reply that I have been typing. Especially when in-between I had to look up something, or had to service my printer for a few minutes. I would suggest a logout-time of minimum 1 hour. Or better: make it user-adjustable if possible, with settings between 15 minutes minimum and 12 hours maximum, or so? This would make it much more comfortable.
  7. Thanks for trying to help, but my problem is not the letters! It's the visible lines on the surface. Those I need to get rid of. Regards, Uwe Yes, I had understood that. You can not get totally rid of these lines, but hollow characters inside a transparant model do reduce the ugly effect. Instead of the weird outline-patterns that you have now, you would get nice straight diagonal lines, which are hardly visible. The fact that the whole model also gets a sort of frosted glass look, or a carbon or textile look when using a transparant or translucent material, even masks them more. And
  8. Like ultiarjan said: no brim. I always print this sort of models without brim, raft, "ears", or whatever. Even for solid models. You could use dilluted wood glue for most materials, or my "salt method" (=gently wipe the glass plate with a tissue moistend with salt water) for PLA. Reducing fan speed or switching them off may also help for some materials (eg. PET).
  9. If your material is transparent or translucent, you could design the text as hollow characters *inside* the model, at 0.3 to 0.5mm below the surface facing the glass table. This is good for prototyping and 3D-printing, but not for mass production injection moulding of course (unless you would want expensive overmoulding with multiple moulds, like often done on tooth brushes these days). See a photo how this looks with 3.5mm high x 2.0mm wide characters: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35918-printing-small-letters
  10. Hello all. Here is a tip that can extend the life of small fans, such as those on the UM print head or on old computer CPUs. When these fans start to get noisy, which means that the bearing is worn-out or running dry, try lubricating them instead of throwing them away. The bearings are accessible under the label on the fan. You can partially remove the label from the fan, but don't take the rest of the fan apart. I have used two methods: 1. Partially remove the label from the fan, and add a drop of oil directly on the bearing. Put the label back. Advantage: easy method, and you can see what
  11. Okay, so this is going to be heresy. We all know the rule: to minimise strings and so, you have to increase the nozzle traveling speed. Faster traveling tends to break the strings, and it doesn't give the nozzle enough time to leak. But now while trying a new PET material (new for me), I found out that this does not necessarily work well always. At my normal printing speeds and temps (good quality: 20mm/s, 210°C; standard quality: 50mm/s, 225°C; material PET, ICE brand), I got little hairs, short strings and blobs in the prints. The blobs occured during traveling fast over already printed
  12. I don't know the official guidelines, but what I do is: - Clean the nozzle after each print, immediately when it finishes. This avoids build-up of brown goo and contamination of next prints. - Regularly do an atomic pull to clean the nozzle's inside. But I do a more carefull atomic pull than most others: First, I do a manual retract of the filament after flushing some material (by pulling it back a few millimeters, similar to a retract while printing). This makes it much easier to pull out that piece of filament later on. Then I let it cool down much deeper, to room temp. Then gently twist a
  13. For objects like that, I think it would be a good idea to design custom support structures in CAD, while creating the model. It takes extra design time, but they will be easier to remove and give better results if well done. Then you could also model your supports more like a tree, and consume less material. And you can design any necessary gaps, holes or other features into the support to make removal easier, and to increase or decrease stiffness as desired. There has been a thread some time ago with several pictures of support suggestions. Maybe you could have a look at that? (I can't find
  14. In addition to the above of valcrow, if you have even more time available, way more time, you could drop speed to 20mm/s, and nozzle temp to 180°C or 190°C for PLA. Buildplate temp: max 60°C, but if it still bonds, you might try 55°C too. This reduces sagging. Also, if the filament is wound up too hard (near the end of the spool), straightening a few meters manually might help a bit too. Then you won't get irregular filament movements when the machine has to pull harder at some places to unwind it, and to force it through the bowden tube and nozzle. A more consistent flow = better quality.
  15. Or you could design one yourself and print that. You just need to copy the part that fits into the back plate, and for the rest you can choose whatever you like. Or take one of the versions on the internet: there are some with bearings. I have designed one with bearings for my machine too, but it won't fit for yours, as it only fits exactly one standard spool of 750gr.
  16. Hello Krys, I can imagine such a straightener works very well as long as the filament is moving, but doesn't it cause bends in the opposite direction, if the filament is left too long sitting still, for example overnight?
  17. I think a problem might be the size, since you say: "at least...". So, how much more is needed? Or can you cut your designs in parts, and glue or screw these parts together after printing if needed? This is something you need to verify. Also, if you want to print lamp shades ("lampekappen" in Dutch, I am not sure if I have that correct in English) with huge openings, the required support structures to print these might be an issue. Supports do leave ugly marks after removing, so that requires postprocessing (sanding or so). Thus, in case you need lots of supports, an UM3 printer might also be
  18. Hello neotko: the text on the blue and green plates have different sizes. Could you tell which height they have in mm (capitals height, not raised height)? And with which nozzle these were printed? When printing small text of a few mm capitals height, I always have clearly visible "circles" on each character, where the nozzle stops a moment, retracts and then lifts off. Sort of little donut-deformations. But I don't see these donuts on your characters. So, I was wondering how you did that? Concerning the image rotation: could that be in the image settings recorded by your camera (the so cal
  19. By the way, apart from the bonding, keep the default settings to start experimenting. For PLA: 210°C nozzle temp, 60°C bed temp, 100% flow, 50mm/s speed (20mm/s for the first layer), 0.1mm layer height (0.3mm for first layer), etc... And good bed leveling, not too high, not too low. These defaults are good, so that should work well enough. If it fails, it is not because of these settings, and there is something else wrong. Clean the glass with whatever window cleaner you want, or alcohol. But then clean it once again with pure luke-warm tap water only! Some window cleaners or alcohols do con
  20. For PLA I only use the "salt method": moisten a paper tissue with salt water and then gently wipe the build plate. Gently keep wiping while it dries. So there is a very thin and equal, but almost invisible mist of salt on it. But not too much. For colorFabb PLA/PHA and Ultimaker PLA this gives a very strong bonding when hot (60°C), and no bonding at all when finished and back at room temp. This makes removing the parts very easy, as it requires no force at all. For ICE PLA the salt method still works, but no longer perfect: corners do slightly lift sometimes. Fans can be full on, as required
  21. For hard filaments like PLA, I usually unwind a bit of filament, then wind it in the opposite direction agains a skate board wheel (7cm diameter). Just half a turn of filament, about 15cm. Then I release it, take the next 15 cm, wind in the opposite direction around the skater wheel, release, next 15cm, etc... This straightens the filament a lot. In two minutes I can straighten about 3 meters like this. Then I let it wind up again on the spool. But now it is sitting very loose, and the unwinding resistance is near zero. Also, the friction in the bowden tube and nozzle is now near zero. Apart f
  22. Yes, you are right. Bold does indeed work well for some "monoline fonts" where all strokes are the same width, typically road-sign style fonts, and if the characters are not too small. It is a good solution if you need text of ca. 10mm high. I have used that too. But for a lot of average fonts, bold mainly thickens the vertical strokes, not so much the horizontal. That still gives lots of problems in the narrow areas of characters like: a, r, n, b, d, etc., at very small sizes (a few mm caps-height). And it obviously doesn't work at all for serif-fonts. Maybe the reason why it is not said, i
  23. Yes, search seems to work much better now, I got accurate results.
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