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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. My printers were too busy to print a FilCatch thing. So I decided to model one out of steel wire (chromium steel, inox, very hard and with spring-effect; the same steel as used for dental retainers on kid's teeth). But apart from that it is the exact same concept as yours. I placed it on a height where the nozzle just touches it when moving across. When the buildplate rises, it also touches the steel wire, but due to the spring steel, it bends upwards and then bends down again without damage. This works well too, and it should live longer than a plastic one. So, thanks for that great idea. Thi
  2. Hello Sander, Did one side of the glass plate get a special surface treatment to get different specs? And if so, which one, and why exactly (in chemical/physical properties)? Having a better understanding could help in case of other adhesion problems too.
  3. I would suggest you handle all sensitive equipment yourself: cameras, computers, 3D-printers... Or let it do by reliable family or friend. Some transport companies will do a good job and be very careful. But I have also seen postmen unloading a train by just throwing the boxes out onto the concrete floor, which was a two meter drop. Even boxes labeled with the "fragile - glass" symbol. To survive that, you would need 0.5m of shock absorbing material around anything.
  4. My two UM2 printers were delivered with 4GB Sandisk SD cards. Obviously they work. I don't know if it are SD or SDHC (I can't pull them out now since the printers are busy).
  5. What I would certainly do, is have a small object printed in front of my eyes. Then it is obvious if it works well or not. Maybe also print a big low object (e.g. 200mm x 200mm x 0.5mm) that almost fills the build plate, then you see if all axes move fine. Carefully watch and listen. Also ask about the PTFE couplers in the nozzle (the white cylinders): have they been replaced recently? If not, they will be worn out and you will need to replace them.
  6. I am not sure if PLA is the best choice for this. There do exist special filaments for casting. I haven't used them, and don't remember the names, but I saw a thread a few months ago. Maybe you could find that? There were waxes and other materials. If you print in wax, attaching other wax parts should be less of a problem. PLA might leave black ashes when it is burned away beforehand. And if you pour hot metal directly onto it (without burning it away prior to casting), it might catch fire and explode in your face.
  7. Even if you would succeed in printing this in one shot, it is likely to break when removing the supports, due to the very thin items, and since they are printed in the "wrong" direction, not along the layers (like wood cut in the wrong direction, instead of along the direction of the fibers, is also very brittle). If you can edit the model, it might be worth trying to split it up in several parts: railings apart, stairs apart, etc... And then print each part flat on the bed, without supports, and glue them together. Like the model railroad houses we built as kids. This would cost you less ma
  8. That FilCatch is a nice idea: I use to do the same manually with a pincette, but this would automate the process. But for sharpening the filament tip, cutting it off in an angle of 45° to 60° (thus in a sharp point) with an electronics cutter seems way faster and easier. Then it can easily be inserted in the feeder too.
  9. Apart from all other solutions above, what about rotating that model 45°? Almost all skulls are way narrower than long (and I have seen quite a few in our dissection rooms). Then it might fit on the platform? But whatever orientation you print it in, any round object is always going to require a lot of support structures which need to be removed and which will leave marks. FDM-printers may not be the best option for printing skulls, balls, skelets, or similar things; and nor may lithography printers (laser in liquid bath). For this sort of model, in real size, I would rather recommend usin
  10. Just to make sure: it's not about layer thickness, but about layer surface. (I use Cura 14.09, where all layers have the same thickness, except the first one.) If I have a model which has - at a given point during printing - a surface area of 10cm2 on let's say layer nr. 86, and then that surface area suddenly changes to only 1cm2 on layer 87, then that big change in surface area will be visible on the side walls. It causes a "thick line" on the side. On models where this is an issue, I usually print multiple parts at the same time (so each layer gets enough cooling time to almost environmen
  11. I have tried it a couple of times now: I sprayed silicone oil on a tissue and wiped the nozzle with it, prior to starting each print. Results: on the white PLA filament there is still a little bit of build-up of molten filament on the nozzle, but less than before. And it is way easier to remove afterwards than before. On the orange PLA filament there is none. (Both filaments: ICE brand.) Further, the extruded sausages do no longer curl up and stick to the nozzle when starting a print: an unexpected result, but of course good. So it is definitely worth trying. I think I am gonna make it a st
  12. Yes, this is even more simple, definitely worth trying. I just hadn't thought of it... Why make things simple, if we can also make them complex?
  13. It's an old post, but it may still be useful for some people. If you can get the image to show on a computer, the simples solution may be to make a screendump, save that as JPG-file, maybe clean it up in Photoshop or Gimp, and try to import that JPG-file in Cura. Another solution could be to make a photograph from the screen (e.g. at the doctor), or make a scan or a photo of a röntgen or of similar transparant slides. Then you don't need any conversion software.
  14. Yep, but looking at the picture... is it removable (if i want to change the nozzle)? On a standard Ultimaker2, if you remove the aluminum plate with the fans, the silicone just slides off the nozzle. That is why you need to use non-stick silicone as used for mould making and casting. So it works just like removing a cast from a mould. Once the nozzle is out, you could force the rest out of the aluminum plate, if necessary. Or you could just break the silicone piece, or cut it off, and apply fresh silicone. This sort of silicone is not that strong and tears apart easily. Note that some mo
  15. What may also help is to cut the tip of the filament off under an angle of 45° or 60°, then the wheels get a better grip. (Provided of course that they spin in the right direction...)
  16. If you printed +400 hours on an UM2, even at only 210°C (PLA), then the teflon coupler will definitely be deformed and need replacement. Whatever else there may still be. So I would suggest: do yourself a favour and replace it.
  17. It will depend on the materials you use, and if your printer has a heated bed or not. - For PLA you can just wipe the glass plate with salt water, and print on that, with the bed heated to 60°C. Thus absolutely requires a heated glass bed, it does not work on a cold bed. - For any other material, you could try gr5's method: wipe the glass plate with dilluted Elmer's wood glue (1 part glue in 10 parts water if I remember well), and let that dry in a thin layer. - I have also heard good comments on 3DLAC spray.
  18. I just realised there may be an easier and faster way to create such covers. At least for some printer models. In short: - Find an undeep spoon, or something with a round hollow inside (e.g. cut off a part of a ping-pong ball). - Fill that cavity with non-stick silicone paste. - Heat up the nozzle a bit, e.g. to 100°C to speed up curing. - Push the spoon up against the nozzle. - Let the silicone cure. - Remove spoon, remove flashes. - And ready: you now have a silicone nozzle tip cover that is flush with the nozzle. Notes: - Only use non-stick, two-component mould making or artistic
  19. I am wondering why you would need that? To start a print, you have to go to the printer anyway, to clean the glass plate, to check and re-apply bonding aid, to check filament (and if necessary straighten it), to check if printing starts well (good flow), to check bed adhesion, etc. And then while printing, it is a good idea to regularly pass by, to see if everything is still all right. I don't see how you would do that from sitting behind a (remote) computer?
  20. I also couldn't do an atomic method with ABS+ (=improved ABS with less warping): it always broke off, just like yours. So I had to flush the remaining ABS with PLA first, and then do the atomic method with PLA. I don't know if this was a problem of that specific ABS+ (which seems to be more flexible than regular ABS), or if it was caused by using lots of PLA first, which might have conditioned the nozzle inside, so that the ABS+ sticks too hard. If you want to try a much more gentle but equally effective atomic method, have a look at my manual here (second entry): https://www.uantwerpen.be/
  21. I like this idea. It is remarkably simple (from a slicer point of view: redo the top layer with different settings and direction), but it is remarkably effective. Definitely worth developing further.
  22. In my couplers usually the bottom inside 2mm are burned, and the next 3 to 4mm have severe dents. So cutting all this off is not really an option anymore for me, unfortunately. Then I don't have anything left... :-) However, what does help a little bit for me is taking a long brass M3 screw or M3 thread, rounding off one end (so it has no sharp edges), and use that as a file to gently (!) scrape the inner walls of the coupler. This will scrape off burnt residu that might block the path. I do this while doing an atomic pull. No need to remove the coupler from the machine. Just poke through th
  23. The strings might be caused by retraction being switched off, so that the nozzle leaks while traveling. Have you checked that? The thick line at the height of the top of the big part, might be caused by the sudden change in area of the part. This suddenly gives a different cooling time of the next layer (actually less time to cool), which often shows up in my prints too. Try printing cooler or print two or three parts at the same time, and see if that helps. The thinner part halfway seems like: or underextrusion, or there is something wrong with the Z-movement (which you already addressed).
  24. I sort my designs first by directory, with an appropriate directoryname for each project. Then within each directory I usually use a syntax similar to this: "modelname_yyyymmdd.extension" to differentiate between versions. For example, a cable clamp in the shape of a snake (a "snakeclamp"), would sit in the directory "clamps", and its name could be: "snake_v20160912.rsdoc". In which "rsdoc" is the native file format extension of my DesignSpark Mechanical 3D-editor (on Windows). Often I have more than one version a day, so I add "a", "b", "c", etc... to the version. Then I always save a JPG
  25. When I want models to sit closer together than Cura allows me to do, I multiply them in my 3D-editor (DesignSpark Mechanical) in the desired amount and positions. And then I export that combination as STL. Now Cura recognises this as only one object. In this way you can put things as close together as you want. But then they will always be printed all together of course, and not one by one, since Cura thinks it is only one object. Have you tried this approach?
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