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Everything posted by geert_2

  1. Als de "verbrande stukjes" eruit zien als kleine zwarte schilfertjes, dan komen ze wellicht uit de nozzle: dan is die van binnen aangekoekt en moet je die reinigen met "atomic pulls". Zoek hier ergens op de Ultimaker-site. Of kijk even naar mijn soortgelijke maar veel zachtere methode hier (en dan een beetje omlaag scrollen): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ Als de verbrande dingen eruit zien als lichtbruine smurrie, in een blob op de print, dan komt dat waarschijnlijk van de buitenkant van de nozzle: soms blijft daar materiaal tegenaan kleven, en
  2. Or maybe try the opposite, reduce the current to let's say 900mA? Then the problem should get way worse if friction is the cause. But I think this would give less risk of damaging the electronics? But anyway, if it is friction, you should be able to feel it by hand, by moving around the head manually with the printer off. Further, if I remember well, there was an old UM2-series that had wrong resistors, causing a too high current, which in turn caused the drivers to get too hot, and temporarily shutting the chip down? I had this effect a couple of times on the Z-axis of one of my U
  3. I don't have dual-nozzle printers, so I can't help with your question. However, another thing: if you want the vase to be water-tight, be sure to print it slow and in very thin layers. In thick layers of 0.3mm this filter housing had lots of tiny holes, through which the water jetted out. In 0.06mm layers, it was perfectly water-tight. I printed this in a single material (PLA); but dual materials is even more difficult to get watertight.
  4. Thanks. Yes, this already gives a good understanding of the orientation.
  5. Thanks, this is a good idea. My current activator is not a spray, but a pen with felt tip, like a fluo marker pen. But I could probably apply it to the outer edge only, where glue would ooze out indeed, to get the same effect. I will try next time.
  6. Long ago I made a font for my 3D-texts. But this was in DesignSpark Mechanical's RSDOC-format only, as I didn't know how to make a real font-file. Recently a guy by the name Jason Chall has turned part of this character set into *real font-files*. Thanks! See here on Github or Thingiverse: - https://github.com/pbz/geert-font - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4160261/files My originals in DesignSpark Mechanical format "RSDOC" are still here (sroll down a bit): - https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ I have
  7. Could it be that you selected the wrong printer in Cura, or whatever slicer you used? Or its bed dimensions in Cura got corrupted? Or else: defective SD-card, corrupt gcode files, hairs or dust in the SD-slot causing bad contacts (try blowing it out with compressed air)? Or something else along this line...?
  8. Yes, I would welcome videos on your techniques. Thanks.
  9. You would need to sit next to the printer and keep watching. My guess is that the bed is not perfectly clean, and/or the glue (if you use glue for bonding) is not spread equally. So the printed sausage does not stick perfectly. In such cases, I have seen these printed lines lifting a little bit on the outer edge. And then, on the next pass of the nozzle in the opposite direction, they would be melted again and be pushed against the bed again. If the bed-adhesion is not identical everywhere, this could cause similar irregular patterns. Filament with silver or glossy part
  10. Wow, print quality and smoothness is impressive, especially the teeth. Did you use supports for the fins? I was trying to see in which orientation you printed it, but I can't see the layer lines. :-) The color, is that colorFabb's translucent orange?
  11. Is this also present Cura's layer view? If yes, it is most likely a Cura software-issue. If no, it is most likely a printer hardware-issue (which I think it is): or the motor is missing steps due to too much friction, or some pulley is sliding over its shaft instead of gripping it, as gr5 said. The "too much friction" can be identified by moving the head with your hands: this should go smoothly and evenly in both directions. If you almost can't move it by hand in one direction, then the motors can't either. I had this once when a new oil I used for lubricati
  12. Hoi Sander, a question: what are the "cover photo" and "member title" fields in our profile? Is that the profile photo or avatar on each post? Or where do these show up if we add them?
  13. I haven't printed with nylon yet, thus no personal experience. So I can't say if the improved flexibility and toughness of nylon would outweight the disadvantages of poorer bed-adhesion, warping, and layer-bonding? This might greatly depend on the model and application. You will have to try. If it was for myself, I think I would start with PET and see if that works well enough. Or I might even start with PLA to get the model and fit right, and then switch to PET for the "production version" that has to survive.
  14. For snap-fit locking mechanisms, or for carabiner hooks, I use PET. This is flexible enough to survive multiple slight bendings, and it does not easily deform permanently. PET is less susceptible to creep deformation due to permanent loads than PLA, although just like any plastics, there is creep. PET is still relatively easy to print. PLA is not suitable: at first it may survive such snap-fits. But after a while it gets harder and more brittle, and then it will start to crack, or it might just break. And it has too much permanent creep deformation under load. If you wo
  15. I always do remove the old end, yes. And then I use those remains for atomic pulls to clean the nozzle, so they are not wasted. But I use a more gentle atomic pull method than the official, without brutal pulling. See the manual here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ I have tried welding new and old filaments together. Technically this works, but it is so much hassle that it is not worth the effort for me. Unless you would have a long and complex print that you don't want to restart, or you would waste way too much material. But I don't have these
  16. Thanks for your answer. I was not thinking of the voltage drop in the measuring wires (you are right, that will not be a problem indeed), but if the drop would be in the controller board, or already before that in the power supply? Then you could find out if it is the supply that is at fault (eg. too weak), or just the thin copper traces in the board itself? If it were too thin copper traces, maybe they could have been bridged by soldering a thick wire over it. That was why I asked. I am still an old-school guy with the desire to make all wiring armoured, and able to su
  17. I use cyanoacrylate glue for PLA, just the standard one. Usually after sanding or roughening the surface with a file. This works well. I also tried using an activator but that makes the glue cure too fast for good alignment. Thin glue tends to soak itself into tiny openings, so that helps covering the whole bonding area.
  18. Some filaments of silver, gold, pearl,... have glitter flakes in them to create that shiny effect. I think it is the orientation of the flakes, and thus differences in reflection, that cause this problem. You see this too in injection moulded shampoo bottles with such particles. Maybe the new "silk" filament colors could be an alternative? They also have a sort of metalic look. I haven't tried them, nor seen them in real life, but at least on photo they look great. Search for: "shiny silk 3d printing filament", or similar, and they view images.
  19. A question: where exactly did you measure this voltage drop? Was that directly on the connectors coming from the supply? Or further down in the circuit board? In the latter case, too thin wires on the board, or too excessive resistance in for example fuses or protection circuits on the board (if any?) could also contribute to the voltage drop. While in the first case, obviously, it is the power supply and/or its wiring itself that is causing the trouble. Since it seems that the bed-heater draws too much current, do you think people could solve this by keeping all current circuitry
  20. Is the printer still cooling down from before, or is it just always? It may take quite a long time to cool down, depending on the situation, the airflow, and the bed-temp of the previous print. Or could it be heat transfered from the electronics below, or a nearby heater, or sunlight? Behind a window in the sun, it can easily be 60°C, like in a car. I would say: in the morning, after being off for the night, measure the temp before switching it on. Then, without printing, measure again after half an hour or an hour. It should still be about room temp, maybe a little bit
  21. The cooling fan blows cold air onto the model and glass. In my tests this could give a local difference of up to 15°C on the glass plate for small models. This could be a major source of difference, as the sensor is at the bottom of the glass, not the top.
  22. I don't know your filament, but I have also seen this in other brands: especially high-filled colors - thus with lots of pigments, or special pigments - print differently from uncolored filament. For example I have seen this in white, yellow, light-green, black,...
  23. De standaardsettings zijn een goed gemiddelde. Maar voor zeer kleine voorwerpen, of als hoge nauwkeurigheid vereist is en je wilt in dunne lagen printen, kan je beter koeler en trager gaan. En omgekeerd: als je zeer snel wil printen in dikke lagen, kan je beter wat warmer gaan. Het is goed om dat in testprints eens uit te proberen, gewoon om inzicht en ervaring te krijgen in wat het precies doet. Maar als de standaard prima voldoet voor jouw modellen, is er inderdaad geen reden om ervan af te wijken. Over SketchUp: hier op het forum zien we de hele tijd modellen voorbij komen die m
  24. Ik zou zeggen: begin met kleine testprintjes, die niet te complex zijn. Blijf bij de printer en kijk nauwkeurig toe terwijl hij bezig is, zodat je een goed idee krijgt hoe alles werkt, en hoe de normale situatie is. Begin vanaf de standaardsettings, die zijn behoorlijk goed. Verhoog en verlaag dan de temperatuur in stapjes van 5°C terwijl de print loopt, via het Tune-menu, om te zien hoe de printer en het materiaal reageren. Print nooit te heet, want dan ontbindt en verbrandt het materiaal in de nozzle. Print ook niet te koud, want dan smelt het niet voldoende, en gaat
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