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Everything posted by Rotary

  1. Ok a little update! I installed the Tinker firmware and the estep file from Bindtech. Leveled the bed and ran a simple ellipse print to calibrate the buildplate. Also toon away that white PLA and replaced it with the ColorFabb XT-CF20 carbon. I downloaded a Marvin keychain model and set the printer to print 30mms on the whole model with 15% infill. UM2 set at 255c, buildplate at 65. Flow 100% Olsson 0.4mm std nozzle. This is the result; .
  2. I wonder why it's doing that, because the filament on the pics and video is ColorFabb PLA that i have used several spools. The nozzle is brand spanking new. The problems started eith the old nozzle and the oem feeder. The next step is to go 30mms and that sounds pretty stupid to me.
  3. Installed the Tinker firmware today and had a couple of test runs with it. Everything looks pretty horrible.... I made a simple 20x20x20 cube in Fusion 360, so I know, that it's 100% solid when i export it to Cura and throw infill to it. Here's a video of the beginning of the print. As you can see, the brim and the base are pretty darn neat, but the disaster strikes, when the cube is starting to rise from the plate. The print is now finished, and I will upload a couple of photos too for you guys later on. At this stage, I can tell you, that the top aint solid. There was just too litt
  4. I'll test the Tinkergnome here too. I'm struggling with other issues here now, so I can't give the extruder any hardcore test, but it sure is sweeeeeet!
  5. I tried it, but with custom settings. I was wondering now, that could it be that the extruder ain't pushing enough filament to the nozzle, or that there is some kind of feeding command issue in the firmware. This happened with the old feeder too tho, and with it's firmware. It's just weird, that the base layer and prepping of the nozzle is like perfect! I can even use the "move material" command and feed the whole reel of filament to the build plate without issues.
  6. OK fellows, here we go...big time! Some few weeks back I started to have some issues with my ColorFabb PLA, as the feeder was pretty much grinding the filament and not extruding at all, failing my prints. I also had issues with my std nozzles clogging up, so i had to do atomics like every day I printed.' I fed up, and ordered the Olsson kit, with the std 0.4 nozzles and a stainless 0.5. I replaced these items -The Olsson block kit -New bowden from 3DSolex, fitted now in full length -New metal coupler for the nozzle from 3DSolex -New nylon from 3DSolex -New Temp sensor from 3Dsolex, as
  7. Well the whole job took me like 30 mins including the marlin, that is actually easier to install, than any windows program to be honest. Just save the file to any location that you know, and then from the Cura, you choose to use custom firmware and press upload, when you have the usb connection with the machine. The extruder itself is BEEFY! I don't soo how that thing would EVER loose grip of the filament. Like EVER! It grabs so tight and it's pretty damn precise!
  8. ok, is the setting of the steps something i should know something about? I installed the marlin they offer on their site, the basic one, not the Tinker. Have you noticed that the filament clamps tension would have any affect on the results? I tightened mine pretty tight, but still not all the way in
  9. Ok, I've had the printer for around a year now, and I'm still wondering, that when you look inside the printer from the front, the right fron corner is giving me issues. When i srmtart the leveling procedure, i tighten all pf the leveling screws as tight as they go. Then I turn the white knob to get the far side to the millimeter point by having a 1mm thick plate between the nozzle and the buildplate. Then the printer moves to the left and i adjust from the makual knob under the plate to get to the same point. Same for the right. Then i do the rest and i end up having so big cap on the fr
  10. have you guys altered any parameters of the printer after installing the extruder? Other than the marlin that is downloadable from their pages. I just installed mine with the Olsson Block and would like to know if you have some tips for PLA setup. are you keeping the thumb screw all tightened up on the extruder? Mine seems to feed even when it's not fully closed, so the quick release moves a couple of millimeters when you pull it gently.
  11. Yep! It seems that when i go over 50% on a spool of that ColorFabb basic PLA, the god damn filamenthas some tight bends etc on it. It just ain't good imho. Hopefully i get the extruder soon, so i can start to print without my blood pressure rising above the roof
  12. I managed to get the feeder to feed the filament, but it seems like it's not working 100% I adjusted the white indicator to the middle of the opening, and now it prints. Still have some issues, as the print fails after an hour, as the layers start to separate. Printed the same model twice and the problem hits in at the very same spot. I now turned the whole model other way around, and see if it manage to print the whole thing. I ordered the Bondtech extruder for the printer, so hopefully the feeder problems are gone now! http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/upgrade-kits/ultimaker-2-qr-extruder-upgra
  13. Yeah, yesterday, i installed new filament. The feeder works great. Then when i start to print, the damn feeder just grinds the filament and will not move the filament. I fitted the 3d solex teflon and new metal coupler too. Everything is new.
  14. Hi guys! I had these problems before the story below, and that's why i changed the components i mention below. I just managed to fit my Olsson block kit and now it seems like i have some feeder problems (once again) I fitted the kit with the 0.4mm nozzle and it seemed to work fine on a print,....until it didn't any more. I'm using ColorFabb Basic Black filament, and I have used it several times. Somehow, I feel the when the spools go past half the way, I'm getting issues, that go away when i change to a fresh one. No idea why so, but it seems to be the way it goes. Back to the issue. I
  15. One thing that makes me wonder every time is that shift that the head makes at 47-48 sec on the video. It sounds like it's hitting the printed area. I see this happening on pretty much every print, but only at some areas of the print. Is it really the nozzle hitting the print as it makes the rapid move?
  16. Here it is printing with the Beta software. I'll do this and then slice it again with the Stable version and see if it fails again. Maybe i get that in video too
  17. Sorry it's UM2 The weird thing is that the problems seem to come and go. If i make a speed change or something like that and slice the model again, it may be that the printer does something crazy. Then i slice it again, and voilá! It prints like a champ, That's why I'm setting my mind on software, rather than mechanical. The printer is printing as we speak, and there is like zero problems. I'm printing PLA @ 40mms / 0.1mm layer and 20% infill. 150 movement speed. 220 degrees 60 bed. So pretty darn basic. I have noticed that the stable Cura seems to crash and jam from time to time. So
  18. Hi guys! I have no idea what has happened, but it seems like Cura is messing up with the code big time here. I installed the latest stable version of the Cura for osx and now it seems like 2 out of 5 prints are coming out as should. Just a couple of minutes ago, I sliced a model, that i have printed at least 20 times, and the print started ok. Then, et the 3rd layer or so, the printhead just jumped like 5cm to the left and continued to print on the wrong place. This happened just after the head had moved rapidly to the right with a huge burrrrrrrr sound. I had problems earlier too. The
  19. Ok here comes the stupid question. So shoot me. I've been browsing this thread a day now, and see that people are making some nice mods to the firmware to get more screen stuff etc. I'm pretty much new to the Arduino environment as the UM2 is the first device in my house that uses such a system. How do you actually upload and update the firmware that is there in Github? If i follow the links you guys post here, i find my self downloading a zip file that contains like A LOT of suff, I'm not new to pc's and doing things, but i'd like to ask before i do anything that i will regret later. I'
  20. And here we have the V2, that i fixed in NetFabb online fixer. This was printed with the sam ColorFabb Basic Black PLA @ 210 Celcius 40mm/s in and out. Layer thickness 0.07 and wall thickness of 0.8mm Base layer 0.3mm I only removed the supports and filed the spots lightly.
  21. No i didn't create the thing. Just downloaded it. So you mean i can even fix that in Cura or just netfabb? I see some people have made it and it seems solid on those. I also double checked the file on Slic3r, and it gave me the same crappy leg. I have tha latest Cura so, no x-ray view Gonna get the netfabb and see what happens
  22. Ok, now that I'm looking at the layers view in Cura, i see that the left leg is not showing up as it should. The whole front side of the leg is missing. Also, the ears are separate of the figure it self. Only attached at the corners. Hmmh. Useless..
  23. Hi! I just completed this 11 hour print and as I was removing the supports, i found out that the printer has pretty much printed a half of the other leg of the figure. It seems like there is some infill or something weird happening, that i can't really understand. The rear side of the both legs are prefect. Original file here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:760426 This was printed in ColorFabb Basic Black PLA and UM2 Layer thickness: 0.08mm Wall thickness: 0.8mm Speed: 30mm/s , both walls and fill Fill: 20% Fill Pattern: Grid Temp: 210 Bed: 55 Support
  24. This was printed with UM2 with the following specs Filament: Colorfabb Basic Black PLA Temp: 210 Table: 55 celcius Layer: 0.15mm Fist Layer: 0.3mm Wall Thickness: 0.8mm Top/bottom thickness: 1.0mm Top Bottom: Lines Retraction speed: 35mm/S Retraction acceleration: 40mm/s Retraction distance: 4.5mm Speed and Fill Speed both at 60mm/s Movement(?) speed: 140mm/s Fill: 20% Fill: Grid I can see that the bottom is like mirror straight, but i can still see those lines. I would have to see a phone case for example that has lines like that showing up. the top is "ok"
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