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EdgE last won the day on January 3 2018

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  1. Generating gcode for this solution is pretty simple, like you do this with an UM3. After a nozzle switch (T0/T1), cura is executing the additional gcode automatically. This could be found in ultimaker2s_1st.def.json: "machine_extruder_start_code": { "default_value": "G0 F9000 X219 Y17.5\nG0 F1000 X223\nG0 F9000 X219" }. Here you could place the commands for doing the switching movements. See working example here: http://www.khwelling.nl/3d/pic/um2s_cura_definitions.zip (These definitions are partly copied from UM3 & UM2. Be aware to save the right file
  2. Thanks, well a colleague has also one printer converted to this solution. He also created the Cura 3.x definition files. His switching solution is activated by hitting the slider blocks. That will be a little bit quicker, but you loose also some mm printing space in x-direction. I know also, that some other people are busy with this mod, but have not seen any pictures yet.. So there is a Cura 3.x machine definition available. (I will update this on my webpage.) The Cura modifiction is working very simple. Within the extruder definition files (ultimaker2s_1st.def.json
  3. Version 1.0.0


    After searching the net again and again, I did not found a nice Dom Tower variant to print. So I decided to create my own versions: Single piece version (20 cm tall) Duplo compatible (big colored one, 53 cm tall) Lego compatible (PLA brons fill & Glow in the dark) Christmas edition (PLA silver, optional having 3 electric candles inside) Unfortunately the electric candles are still somewhere in China so I'm still curious how this will look like.. Stl file could be found here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/architecture/dom-tower-utrecht (Sin
  4. @Gudo, nice design, that open C-frame. For inspiration: have a look to this nice DIY printer: http://well-engineered.net/index.php/en/projects Well, that's not completely true. You do need to buy longer belts and some more pulley's for sure. You also need to print some new brackets and optional create a second top plate (wood will do). But all other parts could just be re-used in a different order..
  5. Hey Gudo, very nice build! I also like the way you solved the object cooling fans, I have to copy that I did a year ago. Transformed UM2 having corexy inside the frame, while using standard UM2 firmware. I did have some problems with "define Quick_Home". You should not use this option in combination with corexy. I'm also thinkering on dockable um3 cores. Downside of using ultimainboard, is having only 2 heaters available (+build plate ofc). While using corexy, there should be many more cores inside...
  6. I got this switching mechanism idea already a year ago, but never took time to realize. Since I'm printing now a couple of months w/o any switching issue's, it's time to share this upgrade here on the forum. It's working with a simple cam-plate, which is moving both nozzles at the same time. The cam-plate is bi-stable, by using the existing (UM2) springs which also hold the teflon isolator in place. Benefits of this modification, besides enabling 2 material prints: Simple modification on the existing hardware Switching is done above bed clips, so no loss of additiona
  7. Drilling the big feeder hole in the UM is quite easy, using a "HSS step drill": Which is also rounding the corner a little bit.
  8. 1.) Can I change the firmware to push 2 separate strands of material at the same time. As far as I know, only one E-motor could be the active feeder. Although it's possible to activate both heaters. 4.) Any suggestions questions? So, if you want to have 2 simultaneously running E-motors, my guess, is to re-direct the E1 step & dir signal on the big pcb, directly to E2 step & dir. (Do this on your own responsibility..)
  9. Marvelous Eraser!! You should definitely win this contest. Also nice to share the making-off. Nice to see some more contributions too. Nice work HDMakerspace.
  10. Updated design, no need for screws anymore. Just use a piece of 2.85 mm filament instead. Download the design: urobot_2hh_x1.25.stl Improvements: 100% plastic: using piece of filament instead of M3 screw Increased weight of feed & longer toes Increased lower body weight Decreased upper body weight Scale: 1.25 Increased walking angle: around 10 degrees
  11. Maybe some more tips: * The legs should move without any friction(!). So when holding your robot horizontal (face up), the legs should drop downwards. When rotating (face down), the legs should immediately again drop downwards. * So when using a screw (or something else), drill all the holes. So when I did created more walking robots (scale 1:1.5), I used for example a M3 screw: -drilling the body: D2.8 (okay fit for holding this M3 screw) -drilling the feet: D3.2 (some clearance around the M3 screw, for 'frictionless' rotation) * I guess some space between the legs is important, so add s
  12. Step files (with & w/o supports) are uploaded now. Looking foward for a 2 material print, with moving legs..
  13. Version 1.0


    These ultirobots starting smiling when walking down the road by them selves Adding some mass, will help the original (1:1) running faster. For more details see: youmagine.com - ultirobot happy walker community contest: a robot walks into a bar...
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