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    (Product) design

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  1. Glad to hear its back to normal and it wasn't anything major.
  2. I would check the belt pulleys and be sure that the set screws on all of them are tight and that the belts themselves are taut as my first step. From the video the belt looks like its slipping. If you take the feeder back off does it home properly? Does it only do this when the print head is moving in the Y direction?
  3. Switch to the advanced settings and see if you can find the settings for layer height, temperature, print speeds, and infill speeds. You may be experiencing underextrusion from it trying to print the infill too fast as the perimeter lines look fine. A lot of the times the default settings need some tweaking to produce good prints. I typically never use default settings as I have ran into a lot of issues with them. Once you start using the advanced settings mode and get a feel for it you can really discover what causes these issues.
  4. They shipped my machine the same day I ordered it and it arrived in perfect condition. They do require a confirmed address and a signature upon delivery. I actually could not pick it up from the local Fedex store either as it was required to be delivered to the address specified so ship it somewhere where you can be sure someone will be there to sign for it. The overall ordering process was quick and easy and their prices seemed good. They included a free spool of blue CPE filament with my order as well as the spool that normally comes with the machine. I would have preferred a second spool of PLA over the CPE, but free filament is free filament . Also the Extended is what I purchased and I do not regret it as it is so much easier to work on any problems with the extra room.
  5. Thats one way to do it. Be careful not to stick anything too far up into the nozzle though as you could do some damage if you do. I just remembered gr5 made an excellent post about changing out the heater block which also helps with the assembly and reassembly of the print head. Here is the link : https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2?page=35#reply-97276
  6. The lead time for an Ultimaker 2 from the Ultimaker store shows 3-4 weeks. I recently bought a printer from http://www.dynamism.com/ which is located in the United States. They typically have the printers in stock and will ship outside of the United States. I found this method cheaper than ordering direct as I did not have to pay import taxes living in the U.S. myself. Dynamism got my printer to me in just a few days which is much quicker than the estimated lead time in the Ultimaker store. If you ordered from Ultimaker and had them ship to the U.S. and then to Mexico I would assume you would be paying import taxes twice and it would take much longer to get to you as it would have to clear customs twice. I would recommend checking out Dynamism and seeing if they are cheaper overall. The taxes on the import will probably be between 3 and 5% of the price of the printer and you will have to pay the import fees to the company that delivers your package when they arrive. This technically makes it a CoD delivery which will require a signature and a check written to them for the amount before they will give you the package (it will probably require one anyway because of the price). Make sure to ship it to a location you will be present when it arrives.
  7. I just recently went through the same situation with a nozzle clog. I managed to solve it with a combination of Atomic Method pulls and using a needle to push the clog from the bottom. I would disassemble the print head again and get the Hot End Isolator as close the bottom plate as you can while leaving a small ( ~1 MM ) gap between the isolator and the PTFE coupler. This should keep the spring force on the coupler to a minimum as excess spring force can cause problems with the coupler. Afterwards reassemble the print head and do a couple atomic pulls from the top of the print head while making sure that the head is close to one of the corners so you do not accidentally warp one of the rods while pulling and pushing on the filament. My temperature sensor was stuck as well in my nozzle and I managed to get it loose by heating the nozzle up and taking a pair of pliers as close to the nozzle as I could and gently twisting and pulling on the sensor wire. I had no metal part of the sensor showing and I managed to get it out without damaging it. I would not recommend pulling on the sensor wires like I did unless you are fully prepared to replace it if it breaks. I did not have any issues with the heater coming out of the nozzle block , but I would assume the same method will help. I would look into getting an Olsson Block as well as it will prevent having to take the whole print head apart to get to the nozzle. gr5 sells them in his store for those of us in the states: http://gr5.org/store/. Fbrc8 is the Ultimaker support team for the United States and they may be able to assist you in the worst case scenario. As for the Acetone, it does not dissolve PLA. If you do get the nozzle free you can take a flame to it to burn the plastic off of it , but be careful not to heat it to the point it can damage the nozzle.
  8. I received a free spool of CPE when I ordered my UM2 and after printing with the PLA for awhile I tried to print the CPE filament. It prints at higher temperatures. Around 240-250 C seemed to work for me. It seems to warp similar to what I have read others experienced with ABS so a heated chamber may make it print better. I didn't have one and experience some warping, but I only did a few test prints. I didn't notice any unbearable odors with it printing like many have said ABS produces ( I haven't printed with ABS so I can't say for sure). My spool also came with an extra PTFE coupler. Not sure if this was an added bonus or if they were hinting at it wearing the PTFE out fast.
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