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Tobus last won the day on August 13 2015

Tobus had the most liked content!

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  1. OK, I tried tightening the feeder tension a bit more, and all was going well until about an hour into the print, where I ran into extrusion problems again. This time it didn't chew through the filament (though I did see where the teeth marks had gone back and forth over the same piece several times). I had noticed low extrusion early on in the print, so I tuned it to 105% material flow. That didn't do much, so I upped the temperature from 210 to 220 and backed the material flow back to 100%. The higher temperature worked for a while, but then for no explainable reason, it just started th
  2. I haven't changed retraction speed from the default setting. And of course it's no different from before, when I was getting successful prints.
  3. I'm at my wit's end with this. I'm using an Ultimaker 2-Extended that I've had for about 2 months. Current stats are 347 hours on, 318 hours printing, 246 meters of material. In the past week or so, I've started to run into big problems with extrusion, where it will just start to spit out thin blobby strings and then stop extruding altogether. The culprit seems to be the feeder motor chewing through the filament and not being able to feed. I did several "atomic" pulls, and everything looks good there. I'm certain my teflon isolator is not at issue here, as I can easily hand-push the fila
  4. Ha, that was a pretty accurate video. I've had my Ultimaker 2 Extended for about 2 months now, and experienced some of the same issues. But going through the learning curve and figuring out how to model things to print well, along with getting my settings tuned in to what I'm printing, has led to some GREAT prints. I kind of disagree with him that it's not a beginner-level 3D printer. Maybe for cost reasons it might not appeal to hobby-level beginners, but as far as using the machine, I think it's been very easy. I didn't have any 3D printing experience before I got it, and had heard al
  5. I run across issues like this on a regular basis, as I'm trying to produce scaled parts where I have no choice on the width. The under-extrusion in your lettering could be fixed by slowing down the print speed and disabling retraction. You might have more to clean up afterwards without retraction on, but it should extrude better.
  6. Just for posterity, the UM2-Extended does have the ability to monitor actual bed and nozzle temps in the menu for tuning the current print. When I go to adjust either of these temperatures, I can roll the knob up to my desired temp, and it will show the actual temperature rising to meet it (or falling, as the case may be). I've noticed that the bed temperature is very slow to come up compared to the nozzle temperature (which makes sense: more mass to heat). But it's actually a very handy tool that I've been using lately, fine-tuning the temperatures during a print and watching how it affect
  7. Hmm, I didn't have any problems with clogs. I had manually adjusted nozzle temp to 235C, and bed temp to 115C while it was preparing to print. It stayed there for more than 5 minutes with the nozzle hot, and never would print because it couldn't get the bed up to temp. It was actually starting to puff smoke out of the nozzle from the HIPS burning in there. Only after I brought the bed temp setting down to 100C did it start printing. But it didn't clog the nozzle. I tried several prints, all of which I had to abort due to the silly thing getting knocked off the bed from lack of adhesion.
  8. I'm curious about this as well. I used up the first spool of silver PLA that came with my Ultimaker 2 Extended, and I need more (I'm on a deadline here at work). But their US supplier is out of stock on the silver filament. I had purchased 5 other spools of various PLA colors that were made by Prototype Supply. They are terrible compared to the Ultimaker PLA filament. I've had lots of problems with the Prototype Supply filament, the worst of which is that the extruder drive wheel chews threw the filament on a regular basis, which it didn't do with the Ultimaker brand PLA. It's also ver
  9. OK, I've learned a couple of important lessons this morning. I did try to set the temperature in Cura, but it did not affect the settings when I tried to print. I had to manually tune the settings after it started printing. That's disappointing. (I was using Cura 15.06.03 - I should probably try it again with the old version.) Once I got the nozzle temperature up, HIPS extrudes very nicely. It does provide a smoother wall surface than I was getting with PLA. Unfortunately, as I learned the hard way, the heated bed on the UM2E will only go up to 100C, which is not quite hot enough to kee
  10. I appreciate the input, and since my machine has only one nozzle, it would be printing HIPS the whole time, not sitting idle with HIPS in the hot nozzle. I don't intend to use it as a support structure, but as the structure itself. I chose HIPS to experiment with because I have read that it gives a smoother edge and is actually pretty easy to work with, in terms of not being prone to issues like ABS, etc. Supposedly, it has strength closer to ABS but without the warping issues, and without the fragility of PLA. Since I have a spool of HIPS, I at least want to try it out. Anyway, my ques
  11. Is it just a color variation, or a variation in thickness (width) of those layers? Hard to tell from the photo. Have you checked the actual diameter of your filament at several locations to see if it's fairly uniform? This could be a simple variation in extrusion due to filament tolerance.
  12. Nothing fancy compared to what some of you are doing, but these are some models I have been printing out for my company. These are 1:12 scale models of shoring scaffold towers and formwork deck panels. We are in the construction business, and are using these models for training. All the pieces are PLA, glued together, except for the wooden tops which are cut from strips of balsa wood to simulate real plywood. One of these days I'd like to experiment with the "laywood" or other simulated-wood filaments for printing models of plywood sheets, but for now, balsa does the job.
  13. I have been using my Ultimaker 2 Extended for a couple of months now, printing only with PLA, and I'm not overly knowledgeable on using custom materials or settings. I just use the settings that are in the machine by choosing PLA as the material when I load the filament. I purchased a spool of HIPS that I want to try out, but I'm uncertain how I tell the machine what temperature to set on the extruder and heated bed. There isn't a HIPS option when I load the material. From what I read, the older machines would control this through Cura but the UM2 series is controlled by the firmware. Is
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