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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. cloakfiend: Don't the Ultimaker's have snap-in quick change heads? It seems it would be advisable to have a spare handy for just such situations. I know... the only argument against is $$$. I have found that I get really nice prints using MakerGeeks Raptor High Heat PLA. It holds up great in the sun, dishwasher, microwave (250 Degree F.), and it is food safe! It prints better than PLA and is really strong. I subscribe to their $30 monthly geekbox subscription. You get 2 rolls 2.2# each (1KG ea.) of some random selection of filament in your chosen size (1.75mm or 2.85mm), a tool of
  2. cloakfiend, I just use washable Elmer's School Glue Stick. I rub it on to the surface of the glass then put a quarter sized drop of water in the center and rub it around using my hand. When I get it all dissolved into a micro thin, consistent layer, I wipe off the excess and let it dry for a minute or two while I heat up the bed and hot end. If I am using the whole bed, it will take several water drops over the surface to get it all consistent. Too much water and it doesn't stick. Too thick a layer and it doesn't stick well. It only takes a couple of tries to figure out how thick is thick enou
  3. Have you tried using water based glue stick to attach the fabric to the print bed? If you have a removable bed, you could soak it loose without causing any damage to the print or the fabric mesh. I have used this method to attach plastic bags to cardstock for use in my Silhouette digital craft cutter, and for adhering prints to my glass bed on my 3-D printer. I love the color and the shiny smooth finish you have attained. Will we get to see the finished product when it is all done? Is it going to be a dress?
  4. Thanks for the feedback. I have been sidetracked from my 3-IN-1 development. We bought an inexpensive JGAurora kit for the club and I bought one for myself as they were under $300 at the time. What I really liked about the kit was the metal enclosure with all the electronics tucked away safely (working with kids). I have modified mine. I put in some longer y-axis rails and a longer GT2 belt, and beefed up the bed support plate and added a larger glass bed (250mm x 400mm). The JGAurora has a 270mm height with my new bed arrangement. I just glued the first layer of a printed boarder to the glass
  5. I had the connector to my hot bed start to melt. I caught it before it got too bad thanks to having recalled your experience. Thanks for the intel and insight! I have been working on a solution to tall dams not being able to use fish ladders. I have come up with a new type of fish passage. Anyone have any knowledge about international patents?
  6. Thanks for the ongoing conversation. I think that if you are going to purchase replacement boards for printers you have already, you should consider buying boards that support 6 steppers. I think the 3-IN-1 hot end is going to become a standard in the future when support for drawing and slicing color 3-D models is common. If you add support for those extra two extruders now, installation of the three color hot end will be pretty simple. I am curious to hear how well the FT-i3 works. I have always thought that the builds with the z-axis stepper motors on top have more sway because
  7. I too wanted a bigger print size for some of my projects. My solution was to take my $300 JGAurora and add a thicker aluminum bed support, then I put in 500mm long, 8mm rods for the y-axis with threaded rod extensions through the use of coupling nuts and m8 x 80 hex head bolts (4 each), then re-connected the bed and y-axis motor with a new, longer GT2 belt. I then put a 250 mm x 400 mm x 3 mm piece of Borosilicate Glass on top of the heated bed (after recessing new bevel head leveling bolts into the surface of the heated bed). I super glued aluminum strips to the underside of the glass to fram
  8. Thank you for the advice on finding volunteers. I hope you will find SoloLearn.com a useful reference. Another idea for 3-D printing without a lot of cost is to check out the maker spaces in your area. The local teen center in my town has an Ultimaker2 that is available for about 4 days a month. They have a FormsLab as well, but it is far more expensive to use. I think the tool I use the most, though, is the 50 watt laser cutter.
  9. Repurposing is fun. I used a 1/2 watt laser with an old print3rbot simple to do laser engraving on wood. It worked quite well. I am currently fooling around with a 3-IN-1 hot end. I am designing a whole new printer around it. Has anyone forayed into this area yet? I am really interested in doing full color printing in 3-D.
  10. So,... I am just curious as to how you have five 3-D printers when you "don't have a huge toy budget". I could see if you started out with a cheap printer, saved and bought a nicer cheap printer, made upgrades and finally saved enough to buy an Ultimaker. That would make sense to me. But why would you spend your limited resources on cheap printers when you already have not just one, but two Ultimakers?
  11. After replacing the nozzle, did you recalibrate your z-axis zero setting to the print bed surface? The old tip was probably worn away and the new tip is therefore much longer. This could account for it's "tearing away at the first layer". After the first layer, it should have raised up a consistent amount from the height of the first layer that the second layer should print with the proper layer thickness. The only other idea that I can think of is that maybe the new nozzle has a sharp leading edge inside where the filament feeds into it. Maybe this is causing the filament to catch
  12. I teach kids as a volunteer for a First Lego League Robotics Club. This year we assembled a 3-D printer and donated it to the school so it would be available to all the students for use, not just the club. My approach to teaching the 5th - 8th graders how to draw 3-D models also included learning how to code in JAVA. It turned out that using the free OpenJscad.com browser to teach 3-D drawing was a great introduction and preparation for learning more advanced work in JAVA. The most noticeable benefit was the instant gratification of being able to write code for each item and see it
  13. Regular edits with search and replace has sped up the process considerably. Thank you for taking the time to send me your suggestion. I am considering writing a plug in to eliminate the editing for all future projects, but I don't have the time to go down that road right now.
  14. I am using code to turn my laser on and off but need a way to get Cura to insert the code at the appropriate times. I have been hand editing the g-code and inserting the code by hand which is getting tedious! Each time I want the laser to turn off I put this code in: G4 P0050 ; Pauses for 50 ms. This makes sure that the last move command executes before the laser turns off. M104 S0 T2 ; Sets the #3 extruder heater output to off. G0 Xnnn Ynnn ; General command for a non-printing move. Each time I want the laser back on: G4 P0050 ; pause M104 S50 T2 ; Sets temp above thr
  15. It is easy to add a wait G4 Pnnn ;(milliseconds) or G4 Snnn ;(seconds) at the point in the code where you want to change colors. Then it will stop for a color change and automatically continue when the time expires.
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