the_schire

In practice, I think most computer fans can take a lot more than their rated voltage due to the simple nature of their circuits. I have a friend who pushed a computer fan to over 25v before it blew up. As for longevity, I broke the original fan that came with my printer, so I got a new 50mm fan rated for 12v. It's been working fine for a few years now. I did notice that the motor of the 30mm hotend fan got rather toasty when given the full 19v, so I wired a few 330 ohm resistors into the fan lead to drop the voltage and thus the heat. What I'm really worried about is how much current I can pull from this circuit before something on the main board fries. If I were to guess, maybe 1 amp? However, I wanted to double check before I killed something on an expensive control board. That's good to know, I'm not sure if I tried that. I usually run my fans either off or 100%, but if 100% will fry a transistor, that's a good tip, thanks.

Hey I'm working on an e3d v6 conversion, and I'm wondering about how much current I can pull from the stock fan circuit. I plugged two 12v 0.1A fans (wired in parallel) and they didn't start spinning until 91% power, so I worry that they're drawing a lot of current from the circuit. Does anyone know the limitations of this circuit?

Oh and 0.2mm layers

Hello everyone, so the original nozzle that came with my UMO eventually got so clogged that I had no choice but to drill it out. The smallest bit I had was 1mm, so I went for it. It's a little bit bigger than stock, but it seems to be working fine for PLA and TPU, but I'm getting some very serious waves with PETG. I got a spool of Push Plastic blue PETG, and it seems to print great until about the tenth layer when I start to get little waves in the walls of the print. Please send help, I've tried a bunch of different settings, but I can't figure it out. Printing at 220-240, tried with cooling on and off, bed at 55-60, speeds from 50-60mm/s, flow at 98%. I was thinking that it was the skin overlap percentage, but I was still seeing ripples at 2% overlap. Thanks, everyone.

Update, turns out it was the nozzle. Some how it got so clogged that I couldn't even blast out the gunked up material with a torch. Soo... I grabbed the smallest drill bit I have and made myself a 1mm nozzle. Prints faster than ever now

So I've had my UMO for a few years now, and it's been having an increasingly difficult time pushing material. Last time I tried to print something, I couldn't really push any material through and have spent the last week trying to clean the nozzle and figure out what the problem is. I have never replaced the PTFE coupler, and I'm wondering if that is the problem, causing restrictions and also contributing to the under extrusion I was experiencing when I could still move material.

Sounds to me like the power supply is going into over current protection. Are you using a different power supply or did you add anything that will draw extra power?

If you look a couple mm under the anchor holes, it looks like the layers shifted forward about a millimeter. My spidey senses say it's a loose belt, I might try printing some belt tensioners, but I don't always experience layer shift.

So I just ran off a 3D Benchy and I noticed some things I didn't like. I noticed some stringing, but that's probably just because my temperature is a little high. The other thing I noticed is it looks like there's a touch of layer shift. Anyone have any ideas on how to counteract that? Printed at 227c @60mm/s, bed 50c in Colorfabb Yellow PLA.

Sorry I didn't keep this thread updated, something blew on the controller, but fbrc8 sent me a replacement. The stiffness I was experiencing was just a lack of lubrication on the rods, but some wd40 took care of that.

Oh, sorry I didn't keep this thread updated, warranties are great! My UMO is about a two weeks within its 1 year warranty, and the great people at fbrc8 have worked with me. We discovered that the controller board was dead. However, the motors feel pretty stiff, sometimes don't move as fast, and often times make new noises. Especially the Z motor.

Hello, I'm freaking out a bit. So I think I have effectively killed all the electronics on my UMO with HBK. I was scraping residual glue off the heated bed where I had layered it on too thick with the printer on, and all of a sudden, big puff of smoke from under the machine. I instantly killed the power, and now none of the LED's or the Ulticontroller will turn on and it's quite a bit quieter than usual. Moving all the axes by hand feels weird, all the axes are more resistant than they were before. So, down to brass tax, how screwed am I?

I've had some good experiences with the white, but apparently it's the most difficult Colorfabb PLA to print with. I haven't tried any other colors, but like all filaments it requires some trial and error.

Yes I did, it wasn't that terrifying, but it was quite confusing when the extruder side bowden clip I printed was about 10mm tall XD.

Okay, thank you! Edit: That appears to have been the issue. I've completed one small print already and have begun a slightly larger one and the Z axis is working perfectly.

As the tittle says, after completing the heated bed upgrade on my UMO, the Z axis is moving way too much. If I move the Z axis about 70mm, it's at the bottom of the machine. I followed the instructions to the dot, but there was nothing in the manual about changing the steps per mm (the value I'm assuming is at fault), all it asked me to do was create a new machine in Cura with the heated bed. Does anyone know what's going on? Thanks!

CPU coolers don't use glue, they use screws to be secured. Perhaps you mean thermal paste, the goo that goes in between the heat spreader on the chip and the cooler, but that doesn't really many gluing properties.

Ok, do you have any suggestions for brands or where to get said glue?

Hey all, so I took the cooling shroud off my UMO as part of the install for the heated bed upgrade, but when I was about to put it back on, I noticed that the heat sink for the Z stepper driver had fallen off. What's the best way to reattach this? Thanks!

That company has taught me a valuable lesson: Don't cheap out on filament. Don't make my mistake, buy some Colorfabb.

Most people will rank Fabberdashery and Colorfabb filaments above Ultimaker, but all three should produce good results with some tweaking. Sorry for the tilted image, my Galaxy S6 is stupid when I transfer photos off of it.

Yeah don't buy that. I got a kilo of the royal blue or whatever, so much trouble. The diameter was so inconsistent, and whatever plastics they mixed in with the pla would clog up my nozzle in no time. Get some colorfabb or ultimaker filament.

I use this http://colorfabb.com/standard-white. Apparently it's harder to print with than other Colorfabb PLAs, but I have had lots of good success with it.

So it prints well?

Well, how does it print? I'm looking for a dark grey filament and Colorfabb doesn't make their PLA in that color, but Matterhackers does.