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RetromanIE

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Everything posted by RetromanIE

  1. If you could pass it on that would be great. I doubt very much anything will change if this is what they are using as new parts. But people should know what they are getting when paying for parts, especially as Ultimaker stuff is very expensive when compared to the cheaper alternatives.
  2. So, after speaking to the guys in GoPrint3D and some other suppliers, it looks like these are the official Ultimaker Glass beds and Bowden tubes. Whatever about the tube, the glass bed is a massive drop in quality compared to the older version and definitely not worth paying the same price for. So, just to be clear its not the guys in GoPrint3D at fault, its Ultimaker themselves cheaping out on us. If anyone from Ultimaker sees this, guys, this is cheap junk glass and I for one wont be using it my Ultimakers. Please fix this, get the proper glass back in. Or if you insist on using
  3. I guess I could live without the nice rounded corners and sides, but the glass just feels so cheap and flimsy. And of course the part numbers dont match up.
  4. I just received these parts from www.goprint3d.co.uk. They are sold as genuine Ultimaker replacement glass bed (part 1154) and genuine Ultimaker bowden (part 1266). On their site the pics are of the real deal(as are the part numbers), but what i got seems like cheap and nasty 3rd party parts. The glass bed is not rounded, light weight and doesn't feel like borosilicate glass and the bowden just looks a bit off. Now I've got many replacement glass beds for my Ultimakers over the years and its always been the same high quality glass bed we all know and love. They usually come shrink wrapped
  5. Ultimaker Classic / Classic +? And the second some sort of resin, maybe with quick swap vat/bed or something along those lines. Really want Ultimaker to move away from the UM3 and S5 style nozzle and back to something more along the lines of the UM2+ olsson block(with some updates/improvements of course). I can dream i suppose.
  6. Never mind. I re-seated the thermistor cable on the electronics PCB and it seems to be reading the temps correctly again(2 test prints worked fine). It looks like maybe the pins sagged/bent a little on the board,so I'll reinforce the connector with some Sugru and all will be well :0)
  7. I noticed recently that a few things were coming loose on the bed of one of my Ultimaker 2+ Extended machines while printing and I just couldn't understand it. But then I happened to touch the glass plate while running a print and it was warm, but not near the 60c i had it set to(its displays 60c in the menu). So sure enough I got my thermometer out and measure then bed at about 40c, not 60c. If i increase the set temp to 75c I'm getting around 60c. My thermometer is a bit crappy so it could be off by 5c. I use hair spray on the glass plate usually which is why the things were coming loos
  8. Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. No I never fixed the issue and I was able to replicate it on another 3 Ultimaker 2+ machines. So I'm just using the latest stock firmware on my Ultimakers now. The tinker firmware was great in the past, but just isn't reliable anymore so not worth using in my opinion(reliability is important to me). Pity :0(
  9. I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  10. Ok, so I don't have any before and after pics ready at the moment. But the smoothers have definitely improve the print quality. The zebra stripes/salmon skin is gone completely on most prints and only slightly visible on some others. For the prints that you can still see the effect, I'd say it's a 90% reduction from before.
  11. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  12. I didn't install a smoother on the extruder, is there still a chance of loss of torque on that without the smoother? My travel speed is usually 120-150mm/s and no slippage so far(its early days in the testing though). As for the case, its ABS Pro from formfutura and i've tested it myself up to 110c without any issue, so it should be ok.
  13. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also g
  14. So the official height of the Z axis on the Ultimaker 2+ Extended is 305mm. Using the S3D machine control panel I was testing the x and y axis sizes as I was having a centering issue(which i now understand). While i was at it i decided to see what the actual height of the Z axis is, which on my machine is 312mm! I did a test print to see if i can actually print that height and it does indeed go up to 312mm without issue(was a quick vase mode print). Is there any technical reason for not using the extra height? I mean it's only an extra 7mm, but that could be useful for tall prints withou
  15. Hi, sure I can share what i have it'll help in any way. S3D: I've also attached a zip file containing one gcode file that always has the issue (its an Ultimaker Robot @0.2mm layer height). UltimakerRobot.zip
  16. Tried lots of things to try and sort this out. Adding some short retrations at the end of gcode to see if that would override the large retrations, no joy. I'll stick the standard firmware back on this. Such a pity as apart from this issue the tinker firmware is so useful.
  17. I've used the tinker firmware in the past and loved it. But after a few issues I stopped and stuck to the standard firmware for the last 9-12 months. I just updated to the latest firmware to test and it works great apart from one issue at the very end of some prints(not all prints for some reason). What it does is at the very end of the print (once completed) it does a large retract. Its happend 3 or 4 times in the last day or two(since installing the firmware). The first retract was about 130-150mm, and the last one a few mins ago retracted all the way out of the bowden to the feeder. Th
  18. I've used the tinker firmware in the past and loved it. But after a few issues I stopped and stuck to the standard firmware for the last 9-12 months. I just updated to the latest firmware to test and it works great apart from one issue at the very end of some prints(not all prints for some reason). What it does is at the very end of the print (once completed) it does a large retract. Its happend 3 or 4 times in the last day or two(since installing the firmware). The first retract was about 130-150mm, and the last one a few mins ago retracted all the way out of the bowden to the feeder. Th
  19. Anyone from Ultimaker have the details on this?
  20. I'm wondering if anyone might have some thoughts on the "Z Axis Movement Speed" setting in Simplify3D? The defaults is usually 16.7mm/s, but I've seen mention of using 40mm/s on the Ultimaker 2+ series of printers. I assume the firmware will limit the speed anyway, but what is the actual speed recommended by Ultimaker? 16.7mm/s and 40mm/s just don't sound correct to me, but I'm open to being educated on this :) So just to be clear, although I'm talking about S3D I'd really like to know what the official line from Ultimaker is on the Z speed(no matter the software using the set
  21. Well, It looks like it has the same nozzle setup as the UM3 which I don't like personally(UM2+ nozzle setup is great and easy to swap/buy new nozzles). But if it has some new great feature or something else I didn't know I needed then perhaps I can be won over :0)
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