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RetromanIE

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Everything posted by RetromanIE

  1. Ultimaker Classic / Classic +? And the second some sort of resin, maybe with quick swap vat/bed or something along those lines. Really want Ultimaker to move away from the UM3 and S5 style nozzle and back to something more along the lines of the UM2+ olsson block(with some updates/improvements of course). I can dream i suppose.
  2. Never mind. I re-seated the thermistor cable on the electronics PCB and it seems to be reading the temps correctly again(2 test prints worked fine). It looks like maybe the pins sagged/bent a little on the board,so I'll reinforce the connector with some Sugru and all will be well :0)
  3. I noticed recently that a few things were coming loose on the bed of one of my Ultimaker 2+ Extended machines while printing and I just couldn't understand it. But then I happened to touch the glass plate while running a print and it was warm, but not near the 60c i had it set to(its displays 60c in the menu). So sure enough I got my thermometer out and measure then bed at about 40c, not 60c. If i increase the set temp to 75c I'm getting around 60c. My thermometer is a bit crappy so it could be off by 5c. I use hair spray on the glass plate usually which is why the things were coming loose, it needs around 50-55c to hold PLA down. I use it more as a release mechanism rather than to hold the print in place. Anyway, I checked all the connections and everything looks fine and I'm not getting any errors. Its the newer print bed as I purchased and installed it late last year. Any ideas as to what it might be? I mean i can print fine if i just tell it to heat the bed to 75c, but i really dont understand whats going on.
  4. Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. No I never fixed the issue and I was able to replicate it on another 3 Ultimaker 2+ machines. So I'm just using the latest stock firmware on my Ultimakers now. The tinker firmware was great in the past, but just isn't reliable anymore so not worth using in my opinion(reliability is important to me). Pity :0(
  5. I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  6. Ok, so I don't have any before and after pics ready at the moment. But the smoothers have definitely improve the print quality. The zebra stripes/salmon skin is gone completely on most prints and only slightly visible on some others. For the prints that you can still see the effect, I'd say it's a 90% reduction from before.
  7. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  8. I didn't install a smoother on the extruder, is there still a chance of loss of torque on that without the smoother? My travel speed is usually 120-150mm/s and no slippage so far(its early days in the testing though). As for the case, its ABS Pro from formfutura and i've tested it myself up to 110c without any issue, so it should be ok.
  9. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  10. So the official height of the Z axis on the Ultimaker 2+ Extended is 305mm. Using the S3D machine control panel I was testing the x and y axis sizes as I was having a centering issue(which i now understand). While i was at it i decided to see what the actual height of the Z axis is, which on my machine is 312mm! I did a test print to see if i can actually print that height and it does indeed go up to 312mm without issue(was a quick vase mode print). Is there any technical reason for not using the extra height? I mean it's only an extra 7mm, but that could be useful for tall prints without having to resize or split etc.
  11. Hi, sure I can share what i have it'll help in any way. S3D: I've also attached a zip file containing one gcode file that always has the issue (its an Ultimaker Robot @0.2mm layer height). UltimakerRobot.zip
  12. Tried lots of things to try and sort this out. Adding some short retrations at the end of gcode to see if that would override the large retrations, no joy. I'll stick the standard firmware back on this. Such a pity as apart from this issue the tinker firmware is so useful.
  13. I've used the tinker firmware in the past and loved it. But after a few issues I stopped and stuck to the standard firmware for the last 9-12 months. I just updated to the latest firmware to test and it works great apart from one issue at the very end of some prints(not all prints for some reason). What it does is at the very end of the print (once completed) it does a large retract. Its happend 3 or 4 times in the last day or two(since installing the firmware). The first retract was about 130-150mm, and the last one a few mins ago retracted all the way out of the bowden to the feeder. The head doesn't move away from the print while doing the retract and so far it hasnt actually had any impact on the printed objects. I'm using the latest firmware (Tinker V19.03.1) on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Sliced in S3D and the gcode start and end scripts are below in case they help. Start: M201 X1200 Y1200 M205 X12 G28 ; home all axes G1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z18 ; lower G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe G1 E0 ; feed filament back End: G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors I did the factory reset once I'd installed the firmware and my retraction settings are the standard 4.5mm @ 25mm/s and 20mm as the end retract(all firmware defaults). Not that it matters, but this happens on PLA and PETG profiles in S3D. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what i might test to stop this? Maybe @tinkergnome might have some guidance on this? Many thanks
  14. I've used the tinker firmware in the past and loved it. But after a few issues I stopped and stuck to the standard firmware for the last 9-12 months. I just updated to the latest firmware to test and it works great apart from one issue at the very end of some prints(not all prints for some reason). What it does is at the very end of the print (once completed) it does a large retract. Its happend 3 or 4 times in the last day or two(since installing the firmware). The first retract was about 130-150mm, and the last one a few mins ago retracted all the way out of the bowden to the feeder. The head doesn't move away from the print while doing the retract and so far it hasnt actually had any impact on the printed objects. I'm using the latest firmware (Tinker V19.03.1) on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Sliced in S3D and the gcode start and end scripts are below in case they help. Start: M201 X1200 Y1200 M205 X12 G28 ; home all axes G1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z18 ; lower G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe G1 E0 ; feed filament back End: G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors I did the factory reset once I'd installed the firmware and my retraction settings are the standard 4.5mm @ 25mm/s and 20mm as the end retract(all firmware defaults). Not that it matters, but this happens on PLA and PETG profiles in S3D. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what i might test to stop this? Many thanks
  15. Anyone from Ultimaker have the details on this?
  16. I'm wondering if anyone might have some thoughts on the "Z Axis Movement Speed" setting in Simplify3D? The defaults is usually 16.7mm/s, but I've seen mention of using 40mm/s on the Ultimaker 2+ series of printers. I assume the firmware will limit the speed anyway, but what is the actual speed recommended by Ultimaker? 16.7mm/s and 40mm/s just don't sound correct to me, but I'm open to being educated on this :) So just to be clear, although I'm talking about S3D I'd really like to know what the official line from Ultimaker is on the Z speed(no matter the software using the setting). Thanks
  17. Well, It looks like it has the same nozzle setup as the UM3 which I don't like personally(UM2+ nozzle setup is great and easy to swap/buy new nozzles). But if it has some new great feature or something else I didn't know I needed then perhaps I can be won over :0)
  18. I've got a UM2+E, no interest in the UM3 so I'm hoping there's something to pull me in to this new one other than dual extrusion.
  19. So a quick update. I fixed up my feeder at the back but still have the same issue. No big deal as i just need some minor parts i reckon.
  20. Thanks, But I've already replaced with a fresh 0.4mm nozzle. I can say after looking at that link tinkergnome shared that my feeder is not setup as it should. So I'll fix that up when home and see if it makes a difference. It's probably a combination of the feeder and coupler, or at least i hope so as they are easy fixes.
  21. Hmm, pretty sure the top of my screw is in the area I've marked in red.
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