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rotorhead

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  1. That's a very good point although I think that adding temperature probes to monitor the power brick as well as the heating elements, print head and enclosure might be beyond the scope of this project - for now! Maybe my project does need to be more complicated to be worth the effort but I was just trying to increase the protection to a reasonable level from a reasonable amount of work. I presume that the firmware has some heating protection built-in and I also assume that the main board has been designed to minimise the extremity of a failure but I don't know enough about it all an
  2. I'm trying to work out how the power switch actually works. I've had a look at the circuit diagrams but I don't know enough about what I'm looking at to answer the question. Does it control a relay/transistor which then switches the power to everything else? I'm asking because I'm trying to work out what components could potentially fail and therefore where the emergency power-off relay should go.
  3. Earlier this year I setup OctoPrint on a Pi 3b+ for the purpose of additional piece of mind during prints. I don't make a habit of leaving the printer unattended but occasionally it's necessary to be in another room. I also like the idea of many of the other features that OctoPrint adds to printers. I need to work out where to wire in a relay kill-switch - parallel with the power switch or on the main 24v supply line. My suspicion is that the power switch on the rear of the printer is actually operating a relay/transistor. My plan was to connect a Pi controlled relay in parall
  4. So in which case and as I understand it, I need 175 150 50 and it's absolutely fine that the sum of the parts do not add up to the total? Presumably the 220-175 difference is so that there is some allocation for the steppers and main board? I have also really struggled to find any decent information on this for the UM2 but you are correct about that article being very good. I have just followed through the process as described there with the cooling fans on full, nozzle almost touching the build plate and in the XY centre and with the bed set to 50 degrees. There wa
  5. I have an ultimaker 2 With Tinker firmware 17.10.1 and have just fitted a 50Watt heating element. I moved the head to the middle of the bed, almost touching it and with the fans on and then ran a PID auto-tune using the firmware. This gave me p23.4 i1.2 d30.4 but I am still getting a 10 degree overshoot, 8 degree undershoot and therefore a very oscillating temperature for the first few minutes. Searching the internet and people are suggesting figures ranging quite significantly from 5.6 0.35 23 to 12 0.75 55. Is there another way of working this out or has anyone else found a solutio
  6. This worked perfectly using a £1 switch from CPC. I have actually used a DPST switch and so will double it up to also switch the power to my OctoPi (taking the supply from the main 24v input). It's also now in series with a relay controlled by the Pi so I can have some temperature driven failsafes. I'll post a pic when it's done
  7. Perfect, they were exactly my suspicions but the confirmation is ideal. Thanks for getting that information for me. Thank-you both
  8. I'd like to move the UM2 power switch from the rear to the front. I already have a Pi running on the printer which has 2 status LEDs and a reset momentary switch and so it would be really nice to have all the controls in the same place. From looking at the original switch on the mainboard, it does not 'seem' to be very significant which makes me wonder if it is actually switching the full 24V 9A power supply or if it runs through a transistor or something? Has anyone done this before? Does anyone know what specs I need for an additional switch on the front. Does it really have to be
  9. It's a UM2 and running your firmware! Yes you are probably correct in that just adding the end code as required might be the only solution - I just need to remember to remove it for large prints. I've tried to make octolapse do this but I could not see a way - hence thinking that Cura would be better. The problem really is that the bed drops all the way to the bottom and all the timelapse programs run on either time or z-movement as the trigger. It therefore needs to pause at the appropriate height in order for a photo to be generated to then make use of it in the post process.
  10. ah ok that's good. So I just need a command to move down by 50mm and then if it can it will and if it can't it will just hit the end stops and stop there?
  11. I've just been searching and am amazed that this has not been covered before.......or I have missed it! I was hoping to be able to set the end code in Cura to lower the buildplate by a smaller amount rather than all the way to the bottom. This is purely for making nice time-lapse end shots in Octoprint so there might be a better way of doing this but I have not come across that either! On the face of it this seems simple enough by just using a relative command and then lowering by 50mm but this might cause a problem if I ever print anything fairly tall and the instruction will theref
  12. Excellent. another upgrade to get on with :-) although the grub screw holding the stock one onto the motor must be the cheapest that UM could find, none of my hex keys will grab it - and no they are not knackered. An upgrade for a later time then.
  13. I've done an awful lot of fault checking, and upgrading on my UM2 recently to try and get it to print just right (the low friction spool holder, the Olsson block, door on the front for ABS, dust filter and a new filament feeder) and so have inevitably spent quite a lot of time getting to know my printer and have noticed that the feeder motor shaft is slightly eccentric! Initially I thought it looked like that simply due to the flat on the shaft but when changing the feeder I had chance to check it and it's definitely not rotating only on its own axis. Over 0.5mm ellipse, maybe up to 1mm, it's
  14. Thank you both, and I wonder which one you would recommend Labern ;-) It was bent like that from new and I assumed that was by design since the nozzle is offset it seemed sensible that the shrouds would be different also. Having said that, when I took delivery of the printer, one of the guide rails was not clipped into the black runners so it had obviously had a knock at some point along the way. Anyway, after a little under 1.5 seconds of work, it is now just the same as everyone else's! And the next job will be print a new shroud. Thanks again.
  15. I've been doing some mods to my UM2 recently (the low friction spool holder, the Olsson block and a new filament feeder) and so have spent quite a lot of time getting to know my printer and also looking around the forum in depth and I have noticed that my fan duct seems to look different to every other one I have found online. The left duct is bent further away. I'll try and attach a photo. Is this as uncommon as it seems from looking around the web...and more importantly, is it a problem? I got the printer new in May 2015. The second part to my question may render the first part unnecessary
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