Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About rotorhead

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

Personal Information

  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Excellent. another upgrade to get on with :-) although the grub screw holding the stock one onto the motor must be the cheapest that UM could find, none of my hex keys will grab it - and no they are not knackered. An upgrade for a later time then.
  2. I've done an awful lot of fault checking, and upgrading on my UM2 recently to try and get it to print just right (the low friction spool holder, the Olsson block, door on the front for ABS, dust filter and a new filament feeder) and so have inevitably spent quite a lot of time getting to know my printer and have noticed that the feeder motor shaft is slightly eccentric! Initially I thought it looked like that simply due to the flat on the shaft but when changing the feeder I had chance to check it and it's definitely not rotating only on its own axis. Over 0.5mm ellipse, maybe up to 1mm, it's difficult to measure exactly. I have had some problems in the past with feeder motor skipping on PLA and grinding on ABS and was just wondering if this change in pressure from the motor could be the problem, or will the spring in the feeder adsorb this change in pressure from the eccentric motor? Thank all again in advance!
  3. Thank you both, and I wonder which one you would recommend Labern ;-) It was bent like that from new and I assumed that was by design since the nozzle is offset it seemed sensible that the shrouds would be different also. Having said that, when I took delivery of the printer, one of the guide rails was not clipped into the black runners so it had obviously had a knock at some point along the way. Anyway, after a little under 1.5 seconds of work, it is now just the same as everyone else's! And the next job will be print a new shroud. Thanks again.
  4. I've been doing some mods to my UM2 recently (the low friction spool holder, the Olsson block and a new filament feeder) and so have spent quite a lot of time getting to know my printer and also looking around the forum in depth and I have noticed that my fan duct seems to look different to every other one I have found online. The left duct is bent further away. I'll try and attach a photo. Is this as uncommon as it seems from looking around the web...and more importantly, is it a problem? I got the printer new in May 2015. The second part to my question may render the first part unnecessary but I was wondering what the best way was to shift the airflow to suit the use of the Olsson block as I have already noticed that the cooling is not as good now I have the Olsson block on (much less tidy Ulti-bot!). I have found a couple of custom shrouds on YM like https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mountand THIS and also a simple extension HERE. thanks
  5. Thanks for the info, I gave the rail a really good clean with a clean rag and some oil but it did not seem to make any difference. I can't feel any damage on the surface but can't help but wonder if that's what it is. It's odd how it's only that rear rail that shows any sign, all the others are OK. I have lubed it up and I suppose will continue using it and monitor to see if it changes. thanks again
  6. Thanks for all the assistance with this, I printed this and this and things seem to be going ok now. During all the experiments, it took me an embarrassing amount of time to realised that high feeder tension was actually more likely to cause the motor to skip - deforming the filament and simply making the motor work harder! Tension is probably now lower than it was with the stock feeder, Z axis motor is on standard current, the low friction spool holder is brilliant even with a 1kg roll on there. I don't need to use the guide at the bottom of the rear, it just goes directly into the feeder. I have also replaced the head with an Olsson block and the head that comes with that. So far the prints seem to be much better. I just need to experiment with temperature now, as well as try and resolve a few other minor problems (which will likely end up elsewhere on the forum!) Thanks for the assistance I will return to this thread and post any more relevant info.
  7. Hi, I've had my UM2 for about 5 months and ran about 0.7kg of material though there so far so not a massive amount of use and have noticed a slight blackening on the rear horizontal axis. It does not seem to come off just by rubbing it but I have read the these rods are coated so have been reluctant to do anything else to try and remove it. The only thing I have done to the rod is a couple of drops of light sewing machine oil just once a few days ago. In fact that was when I noticed it was starting to go a little black. The printer is used in a relatively clean office and is covered over when not in use. anyone any ideas what it might be? If it matters? And how to get rid if necessary? The photo perhaps make it look slightly worse than it is to be honest.
  8. That's great info, thanks. It's all the various solutions I have come across on the internet all rolled into one post to be honest but it makes me more confident to start tinkering with settings now knowing that it is not normal that they come shipped ready set up. My filament did look more like the fist image but I have increased the pressure now. I will pull it back out and have a look at it now and make sure it's somewhere between the 2. I've not had much ABS through this machine at all but I did do lots of cold pulls afterwards and ended up getting lovely clean plugs. I'm fairly sure it's not the drawing, it's a very simple piece that I drew up and I've never had an issue before. I think I will try everything you said over the course of the next few prints and see which one means I don't need to feed the filament by hand! Thanks for all the help.
  9. The filament is sold as 3mm but is actually 2.91mm. I have set the Ultimaker to this although I have tried it on the default 2.85mm and had the same problem. I have not tried printing the same part with the silver OEM material as it's quite a large piece. Perhaps I should? Yes I spotted that feeder and was thinking I should try it. I like the idea of the low friction spoolholder too. Both seem like a good idea but like you say, my problem seems worse than normal. I see what you mean about increasing current to the feeder. Presumably the feeder motor should ideally never skip back when things are working properly? and presumably since the UM2 comes shipped with the tension indicator right at the top, that's where is should really be?
  10. Hi, I have recently got my UM2 and have so far only printed a hand-full of small things. I have black and white PLA and ABS and the silver OEM PLA. I know a reasonable amount about 3D printing but am certainly not an expert and this is the first time I have owned my own machine. The problem I have had is with my first large ish part. (12 hr build) I am trying to print at 50mm/s 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer in black PLA from printme3d.com. All my prints up until this part were fine, even using the same material and speeds but the first attempt at this larger part was terrible with gaps all over the place. I noticed that the feeder motor was skipping quite a lot so I have messed about with cleaning the nozzle, changing temps and speeds and pressure on the feeder motor and I made it slightly better but still not good enough. Eventually I realised that the filament going IN to the feeder was causing the problem. It was simply too hard to pull it through. With the filament just loosely coiled up and being picked by the feeder the problems seem to be almost completely sorted (I noticed just a few motor skips and the odd gap in between outer wall layers). The PLA is on a 1kg roll and I have about 2/3 of it on the roll now. I have measured the diameter of the filament and set the UM accordingly. I have thoroughly cleaned the nozzle and bowden tube and once I established that the problem is the filament going in, I was able to get the speed back up to 50mm/s with a temp of 240 on 0.2mm layers with hardly any step-back on the motor. The part I am printing has very little need for retraction, 1.6mm walls and 30% fill. Oh and I increased the spring pressure on the feeder. The white markers were at the top, they are now in the middle - this seemed to be the only thing that helped the print apart from loosening the filament on the roll, no grinding yet but I'm not sure if I was correct to do this! I have tried running the filament around the little black pin on the back, bottom right and it seems to make little difference if it's round that or not. The PLA seems very reluctant to straighten out. Even if I pull some off the roll to help the feeder, it tends to wrap back up again so every 5 mins I had to tend to the spool for 12 hours to get the part done! I am just wondering what the best fix for this is? I have seen some mention online of using a different feeder, some people have said that increasing the power to the motor would be a good idea and I have also seen some alternative spool holders like ones with 4 metal rollers. I can't be the only one with this problem but then of course I could have completely misdiagnosed! I have to say that I was very reluctant to increase the temp to 240degC for PLA but I found lots of justification for this online and did not experience any stringing, hairs or bubbling. Sorry for the long post, tried to get as much useful info in there as poss!
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!