Gencab
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Posts posted by Gencab
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Try three things:
- Increase retraction - I use 5.1-5.25mm
- Increase travel speed - faster travel "breaks" the threads instead of stretching them out.
- Print a set of bowden clips that have variable height, like these: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-bowden-clips.
Watch the ends of the Bowden tube when a retraction happens. If you see the ends move at all relative to the head or feeder, you need to use a thicker clip. There should be No visible movement of the Bowden tube during retractions.
- Turn off retraction if at all possible...
eldrick seems that link is not working. Can you refresh the link please
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Example of some materials that in theory would be possible. Though in practice I don't think making magma would be high on my to do list lol.
Melting point of Tin = 231.9C
Melting point of lead = 327.5C
Melting point of aluminium alloy = 463 to 671C
Melting point of aluminium = 660.3C
Glass depending on composition melts at approximately = 500c to 1650c +
Natural rock depending on composition turns to magma at = 700c to 1300c +
Keep in mind the more temperature we apply and depending on the material the off gassing could be very toxic. Not to mention any toxic residue left by some metals.
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There are two platforms, the UMO and the UM2 family.
The majority of parts of the UMO is compatible with the UMO+. The only difference being the motherboard, and the Zstage. Stuff that goes on the frame and hotend are generally interchangeable.
The UM2 family, (UM2, UM2GO, UM2:EXTENDED) use all the same parts, the only difference being the frame. And also the UM2Go has no heated bed. So any mods that works on a UM2 will work on an Extended or 2Go.
Mods will generally work within the same family of UMs. Nozzles, extruders etc all work somewhat differently on UMO vs UM2 so cross family compatibility isn't there. I'm not really sure there's a big need for a compatibility guide if you just go with the family thing.
Thanks for the clarification and great explanation of platforms. Certainly helps my understanding.
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As a newbie to 3D printing I have been doing a lot of comparison when it comes to the Ultimaker product line and modifications or tweaks. One thing I constantly run in to is compatibility questions when I find a mod I like or a tweak that may not work for my model. Those of you whom have been around since the early days of Ultimaker probably find this knowledge common but its something that inst simply available without asking a lot of questions.
How similar are the different models of Ultimaker? Before you answer lets consider the following.
Yes they follow the same drive design principles and bowden tube setup. Lets look a little deeper for a more functional answer. How about we ask the following questions. What parts a cross compatible within the different models? So this question is much more complex. There are now five different models available so it will depend on what models we compare.
So lets start with the following before we go any further.
Is there a parts cross compatibility chart in existence?
If yes then we should be able to use this chart to find what mods or tweaks may work in different models. Say for example you have an UMO and you find a printable mod someone has made for a UM2. Its a perfect mod but nothing is available for your model? Perhaps that mod may work but you really wont know unless you print it, measure it, or research it. So I propose information like this would be invaluable to the average user like myself to be able to reference on the fly.
If the answer is no then we have the opportunity to create some very useful information for the community. Breaking the printer components down to simple groups like "Hot end assembly" and "Extruder" then checking off what models will fit another as a drop in replacement will make things very simple.
So what say you community?
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I was actually looking at a E3D hot end but wasn't sure if it was a direct drop in part or If a special bracket is required.
I like Anders-Olsson design. Its like a mini torque wrench.
ultiarjan ill have to see if I can find anyone that sells extractors like that. I used to have a set about 10 years ago but haven't seen anyone selling a set like that. Amazon possibly? There is defiantly enough meat inside the block for an extractor to bite on to. Presently I have JB-Weld setting with a bolt. This should bond the bolt to whats left of the nozzle so I can back it out.
All things considered I am wishing Ultimaker gave us a spare nozzle with the kits. Seems common practice to have a spare.
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Well I broke the cardinal rule when working with electronics and delicate equipment. I used to much force on the heater block and nozzle resulting in the nozzle snapping inside the heater block. Ruined both components.
I ordered a new end from fbrc8 but they are out of heater blocks so I hope they get more soon. I managed to find some knock off aluminium block on Amazon I can use until the official part is available.
This all started when my UMO+ was under extruding so I proceeded to clean the hot end via the Atomic method. Didn't seem to work so disassembled the hot end then manually cleaned both the block and nozzle. The method for cleaning is similar to the atomic method but I used a small torch to heat up the components then clean. Its possible I applied to much heat to the nozzle making it brittle but im not sure. When I went to re assemble the hot end I noticed a little plastic was left in the thread so I applied some force to ensure it was a good fit. Then snap. Talk about instant regret. Looking back on it I believe I should have installed the nozzle while the block was hot thereby negating any residue causing resistance. Is this a correct or am I looking at this completely wrong?
My hot end got clogged with a plastic called PTE+. Its some great stuff but it definitely takes more heat to use and can be a little more tough to get a clean print. So my printer is down for the weekend until replacement parts arrive. I have certainly learned some lessons on what not to do in this case.
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I have been using a RaspberryPi B to drive ActoPi as my UMO+ control and a raspberry camera taking timelaps. Im on week 2 with this setup and it has been very nice being able to control my UMO+ from any device around the house. The addition of a touchscreen would be interesting but I wonder how intuitive the touch control is.
I bet this would look great on a all inclusive case with a hanger.
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Thanks for all the help. Looking at neotko's suggestions and that build looks awesome. Will definitely be borrowing from the list of mods.
On the above image you can see the Ultibot on the left in a much more clear resolution with minimal drag. On the right is an OctoPi case for the raspberryPi . Turned out very well but I would suggest against a brim.
My UMO+ is coming along nicely and i'm getting a feel for some of the nuances needed for proper printing. I am grateful for the community and support provided here. It was most certainly one of the biggest features associated with Ultimaker. As soon as my time laps video is uploaded on my channel ill post here as promised.
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This pointed me to a simple solution
I guess I was over thinking things. Forgot the stepper motors are on slots so the mounting can be adjusted. I simply loosened the screwed and pressed down. Took all the slack right out.
Next test
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I found the problem. The Y axis short timing belt has to much slack. It skips on the belt depending on turn length. The X axis short timing belt is loose as well but im a little unsure as to how to remove the slack. I did adjust the pulleys to remove a little slack but is there another method recommended for this particular problem?
I search further in to the community for similar posts and link if I find anything.
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Thanks neotko
Going back to basics and verifying set screws are tight and stops registering properly.
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First print was an ok start. Second print went oddly wrong. Seems Z axis is spot on but X and Y went wild at random for some reason. Every time I hit home on the printer it still tries to home way off from home 0.
So if I manually move x and Y to what should be 0 the printer registers it as 0 until the print starts then I get massive collision. I double checked the alignment and verified the bed is level.
Suggestions?
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Bed aligned.
Divided by 0 and we are all still here. Thanks so much for the help.
Attempting first print
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New question for the vast knowledge in this community.
Auto home is way off. I have adjusted the z axis appropriately and it is fine. However X and Y axis are off significantly. What is the best method for setting a proper 0 x 0 x 0 to auto home in the right physical position of the print head?
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Looks like that did the trick. Uploaded a firmware update via Cura and all is working now. Had to give the Z axis a little helping hand since it seized after bottoming out but it works now. Im adjusting all the limit switches now. Fine tuning has begun lol.
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I recorded a time laps of about 3/4 of the assembly. Ran out of memory lol.
Its completed but I have run to a few issues on first power up.
- The UltiController displays a blank screen when its powered up.
- I mistakenly pressed the button and now the Z axis is continually trying to bottom out the bed. Im not sure how to stop this so I have powered the unit down.
Searching the community for any similar situations. If anyone has suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.
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My Ultimaker Original + has just arrived. Now the fun can begin!
Furious assembly GO
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Reply from Webroot.
"Hello,
Thank you for submitting your report. We have examined the logs from your system and found that the detected items were the result of a false positive, and are not a threat. We have updated our security definitions to address this.
You may un-quarantine and restore the file that was quarantined by the Webroot SecureAnywhere software if you have not already done so. To restore the file:
1. Open on the cog icon next to PC Security.
2. Click the Quarantine tab.
3. Click the check box next to the filename, then click Restore.
Now that this change is in effect, we request that you run another scan of your computer (click "Scan My Computer" on the main overview window). If the same detection occurs, please let us know immediately.
Thank you,
Webroot Advanced Malware Removal Team "
I'm not sure if the updates definitions for everyone but Cura works now.
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I sent Webroot a support ticket request last night outlining the details. Hopefully they can assist in how to whitelist a program or update their records so Cura wont be flagged.
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Very strange . I just installed Cura_15.06.03 on my PC and Webroot (antivirus suite) flagged a specific file as a threat.
Malware Group: W32.Mogoogwi.Gen
File: cura_15.06.03\pyqt5.qtcore.pyd
I downloaded the file directly from Ultimakers site so i'm confident its safe. What makes me curious is Webroot is in most cases very good against false positives . So I wonder what could have tripped the flag.
Has anyone else run in to this situation with Cura of any version?
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Almost guaranteed you will have problems but we will be able to easily help you I'm sure! Welcome.
Well i'm more concerned with order and shipping problems. As far as assembly its safe to assume an issue or problem is always around the corner but I find its one of the best teachers you can find. Ill be leaning on the community and its vast knowledge base for help so I most certainly appreciate it.
Why are you specifically worried about order and shipping problems?
And welcome to the community! Good to have you on the team!
Aside from the typical concerns when ordering any product like shipping damage or lost shipment (very rare) I would have to say parts inventory would be my biggest concern. This concern only came about from a few testimonials out of many I have read about missing the odd random part. In all cases that I have read the customer was well taken care of by the suppler or Ultimaker directly. So all things considered I really don't have much to be worried about in my opinion. I anticipate a fun and enlightening experience.
Thinking on it I believe documenting the build and experience will be just as enjoyable.
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Almost guaranteed you will have problems but we will be able to easily help you I'm sure! Welcome.
Well i'm more concerned with order and shipping problems. As far as assembly its safe to assume an issue or problem is always around the corner but I find its one of the best teachers you can find. Ill be leaning on the community and its vast knowledge base for help so I most certainly appreciate it.
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So after much debate (with the wife) and research about what printer to get. I have decided to cut my teeth with Ultimaker's Original + . Living in the US I decided to order from dynamism after seeing a few good reports from this community about their experience with the company.
My plan is to report back in kind with order experience and build once complete. Fingers crossed all goes well and happy printing.
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Heated Chamber Error
in Materials & profiles
Posted · Edited by Guest
Im no pro so ill just chime in having the same model as you.
I use a brim with PLA and is has always seemed to help with bed adhesion. If I remember correctly PLA is not a big fan of heat chambers and that might be something more for ABS. In either case it would be a good idea to make sure the chamber is regulated evenly. You may not need a fan just simply a vent so the heated air will not continue to stack on itself and make the camber hotter than you need.
If I where you I would try another print then take some ambient temperature readings with thermometer. Something that can reach over 100c would be a good idea. Then adjust your vent to get a good level temperature. Im guessing anything above 60c will not work well for PLA but maybe one of the Pro's can chime in on this.