sambianchibazzi
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Posts posted by sambianchibazzi
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Is there any news regarding creating a custom S5 firmware that can be installed via USB (like a regular firmware)?
We need to make a couple of changes:
- reduce the speed at which the S5 loads the filament (during load filament procedure) as it is too high for certain materials. S5 printer (not with material station)
- change the initial prime procedure when you have the material station as with some print core/material combinations, it does not work well.
Can anyone help here?
Thanks!
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Ciao a tutti,
Per chi non l'avesse già scoperto o volesse semplicemente approfondire, apro questo thread per aprire una discussione sulla nuova Ultimaker S5! :)
COSA CAMBIA?
- grande volume di stampa con doppio estrusore
- sensoristica avanzata per un'esperienza utente semplice e poco impegnativa
- autocalibrazione migliorata del piano (funzionava già bene)
- sportellini anteriori, webcam, LED di notifica e touch screen sono dei plus in più.PERCHE' ULTIMAKER S5?
Perchè questa è l'unica stampante 3D desktop dal grande volume di stampa con costi accessibili per molte aziende e professionisti. Il tutto mantenendo la rinomata qualità di stampa Ultimaker.Noi di Manufat siamo orgogliosi di offrire questa soluzione di stampa 3D in tutta Italia :)
PREZZO: € 5495
Per leggere l'articolo completo su tutte le novità potete andare qui sul Manufat Blog
Cliccate qui se siete interessati all'acquisto o volete maggiori informazioni sulla Ultimaker S5.
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Potrebbe anche essere che devi fare manutenzione alla macchina. C'è un piccolo componente che dopo circa 400 ore (dipende da diversi fattori) va sostituito. Accoppiatore in PTFE.
Sai quante ore ha la macchina?
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Più che stamparti quello iRobert che non cambia moltissimo ti consiglio direttamente il feeder della UM2+ o UM3. Questo è l'upgrade che rivendiamo: http://www.shop.creatr.it/it/um2-ricambi-e-upgrades/201-feeder-upgrade-ultimaker-2.html
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I don't see what that has to do with it.
Anyway this is the correct link: http://ulti.creatr.it/en/2x/index.html and here are the guides with videos: http://ulti.creatr.it/en/support/2x/assembly.html
Yes, I haven't checked the forum recently. I'll check it in a couple of hours. If someone has any important question it would be better if they send an email in anycase.
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Hello Everyone,
Does anyone know where the Ultimaker 3 firmware source code is?
I wanted to check it out!
Thanks.
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Ciao a tutti!
Scrivo questo post per informare che è stata rilasciata la nuova Ultimaker 3 e Ultimaker 3 Extended: una stampante 3D desktop professionale. Questo nuovo modello offre finalmente la libertà di stampa di qualsiasi geometria e qualsiasi forma.
DOPPIO ESTRUSORE
La novità principale riguarda il doppio estrusore che utilizza i print core: gruppi estrusori completi e sostituibili in 30 secondi.
Le combinazioni attualmente supportate sono:
- Strutture di supporto con materiali solubili (PVA) e il pezzo in PLA e NYLON.
- Doppio colore con: PLA PLA, ABS ABS, CPE CPE, NYLON NYLON
Sotto trovate un'immagine di un componente realizzato con la Ultimaker 3 e successivamente sciolti in acqua i supporti in PVA.
La Ultimaker 3 ha un prezzo di € 2995 e la Ultimaker 3 Extended di € 3695.
Per maggiori info leggete il nostro blog post su Creatr.
Per chi fosse interessato o vuole una prova di stampa andate sul nostro sito qui.
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My personal experience tells me precise leveling the height of the 2 nozzles is not that easy. I damaged quit a few hot-end-isolators in the process.
No video will convince me this dual setup is 'easy'. Single extruder 3d printing is not even 'easy'. Any dual setup will make it exponentially less easy..... if you've seen my magnetic changer experiments you know I gave it a try
Challenge accepted. We actually don't use 2x olsson block. I don't understand why you damaged your isolators..
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are you sure you installed everything correctly? If so, bend slightly the X endstop so that it is activated slightly before. Not too much!I've just installed the upgrade and done a quick test print.
So far everything seems ok but I'll reserve judgement till I've run some longer tests.
I have one concern. I have quite an old Ultimaker 2 and many of the instructions were incorrect which is fine for all except one.
My old print head had an extra pair of wires on an extra connector that connected onto the PCB adjacent to "J22" and near the word "serial".
I was not told to remove this cable in the instructions (but obviously I had to).
The new print head assembly did not have this cable.
What was it?
Everything appears to be working but have I missed something?
Also the fan duct on the new print head just hits the edge of the plastic printer body when the head homes. I haven't looked at fixing it yet but I am thinking of filing the fan duct down a bit, unless someone knows of a better fix?
Thanks
Peter
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About 4 hours.. Simply because it prints the massive prime tower quite slowly. We need to speed that up and it will take much less time.
But still. It can take as long as it wants as long as it prints that good!
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Any ETA on dual extrusion support? Also toolchange scripts?
Thankss!
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Hi,Look what I found in the printer this morning.
However, I'm not sure if I'll ever manage to totally dissolve the PVA ...
But slicer generated support just doesn't work reliable with complex geometries where lots of tiny PVA support structures would start on top of PLA surfaces.
If it'll ever see the light of day it should look like this.
Can you send me the STL so we can do a test print ourselves? Thanks!
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I have some info and details.
How do you level the nozzle to each other?
The nozzles are leveled with steel's insulator which is screwed or unscrewed.
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UPDATE: We'll soon be able to use heated bed + heater cartridges during the print. This will help for big dual colour PLA, ABS, CPE, Nylon prints.
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Here is what we woke up to today
Benchy with 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2 layer.
Just need to remove the really light stringing there is and it's perfect,
Tomorrow maybe we can print it with 0.1mm layer, I need to check how many other prints we still need to do.
BTW. This is what we'll wake up to tomorrow..
Hope you guys like it!
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Sorry for the late reply. We've been busy getting everything organized and been at a trade faire last week.
Can someone link the dual colour benchy file so we can test it out and show the results?
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To be honest I'm far from convinced. Seems like the classic fixed setup. So I see a new cooling block, but apart form that what does this kit bring? I need to see many more close up photo's and video.....
To me the most interesting of this post is the availability and price (99,-) of the separately sold new + feeder.
Far from convinced in what terms? What do you still need to think that this is a working and easy to use dual extrusion setup? What video do you need?
OK. I'll go the extra mile :)why don't you send us a part that you want to see printed, we print it and I'll send you the photos and maybe a timelapse?
No need for any special object, just print f.e. the famous 2-color tree frog by nervoussystem
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329436
I'dd like to see a video where we can also see the wipetowers, and close up photo's without cleanup...
I suspect due to the aircooling that it takes pretty long to heat/cool the 2 hotends during each change, how long does it take? what hot/cold temperatures do you use? This does not need to be a problem (dual printing on f.e. the felix also takes ages) but people need to be aware of it.
The lack of a lifting system produces an extra risk of damaging the part with the cold nozzle, obviously a dual extruder will per definition increase the failure rate of prints, I'm curious what the failure rate is with your setup.
I like the fact that you use 2x olsonblock, at least this makes it easy to remove the 2th nozzle, so this setup will not negatively impact your single nozzle prints.
My personal experience tells me precise leveling the height of the 2 nozzles is not that easy. I damaged quit a few hot-end-isolators in the process.
No video will convince me this dual setup is 'easy'. Single extruder 3d printing is not even 'easy'. Any dual setup will make it exponentially less easy..... if you've seen my magnetic changer experiments you know I gave it a try
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To be honest I'm far from convinced. Seems like the classic fixed setup. So I see a new cooling block, but apart form that what does this kit bring? I need to see many more close up photo's and video.....
To me the most interesting of this post is the availability and price (99,-) of the separately sold new + feeder.
Far from convinced in what terms? What do you still need to think that this is a working and easy to use dual extrusion setup? What video do you need?
OK. I'll go the extra mile :)why don't you send us a part that you want to see printed, we print it and I'll send you the photos and maybe a timelapse?
No need for any special object, just print f.e. the famous 2-color tree frog by nervoussystem
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329436
I'dd like to see a video where we can also see the wipetowers, and close up photo's without cleanup...
I suspect due to the aircooling that it takes pretty long to heat/cool the 2 hotends during each change, how long does it take? what hot/cold temperatures do you use? This does not need to be a problem (dual printing on f.e. the felix also takes ages) but people need to be aware of it.
The lack of a lifting system produces an extra risk of damaging the part with the cold nozzle, obviously a dual extruder will per definition increase the failure rate of prints, I'm curious what the failure rate is with your setup.
I like the fact that you use 2x olsonblock, at least this makes it easy to remove the 2th nozzle, so this setup will not negatively impact your single nozzle prints.
My personal experience tells me precise leveling the height of the 2 nozzles is not that easy. I damaged quit a few hot-end-isolators in the process.
No video will convince me this dual setup is 'easy'. Single extruder 3d printing is not even 'easy'. Any dual setup will make it exponentially less easy..... if you've seen my magnetic changer experiments you know I gave it a try
Challenge accepted. We actually don't use 2x olsson block. I don't understand why you damaged your isolators..
The light bulb was a 30hour or so print. About 180mm high.
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To be honest I'm far from convinced. Seems like the classic fixed setup. So I see a new cooling block, but apart form that what does this kit bring? I need to see many more close up photo's and video.....
To me the most interesting of this post is the availability and price (99,-) of the separately sold new + feeder.
Far from convinced in what terms? What do you still need to think that this is a working and easy to use dual extrusion setup? What video do you need?
OK. I'll go the extra mile :)why don't you send us a part that you want to see printed, we print it and I'll send you the photos and maybe a timelapse?
No need for any special object, just print f.e. the famous 2-color tree frog by nervoussystem
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329436
I'dd like to see a video where we can also see the wipetowers, and close up photo's without cleanup...
I suspect due to the aircooling that it takes pretty long to heat/cool the 2 hotends during each change, how long does it take? what hot/cold temperatures do you use? This does not need to be a problem (dual printing on f.e. the felix also takes ages) but people need to be aware of it.
The lack of a lifting system produces an extra risk of damaging the part with the cold nozzle, obviously a dual extruder will per definition increase the failure rate of prints, I'm curious what the failure rate is with your setup.
I like the fact that you use 2x olsonblock, at least this makes it easy to remove the 2th nozzle, so this setup will not negatively impact your single nozzle prints.
My personal experience tells me precise leveling the height of the 2 nozzles is not that easy. I damaged quit a few hot-end-isolators in the process.
No video will convince me this dual setup is 'easy'. Single extruder 3d printing is not even 'easy'. Any dual setup will make it exponentially less easy..... if you've seen my magnetic changer experiments you know I gave it a try
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We don't have such a big issue with oozing..we have a brief pause about 5s, the nozzle gets ready and then we print the wipe tower/skirt.So how do you prevent oozing from the idling nozzle?
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Yes we know that is quite easy to solve by adding a small electronics board but decided to opt out at the moment.You could sell the kit with other power supply, like the one I have on one of my umo+ from meanwell
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8466-ultimaker-origional-and-dual-extruders?page=2#reply-94667
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Thanks. Yes correct although please call us Creatr. Not all Italians sell the plus feeder for € 99 + vat...FYI, Seems the Italians started to sell the + feeder separately for 99,-
Pretty interesting if you have a relatively new UM2.
http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/um2-spare-parts-and-upgrades/201-feeder-upgrade-ultimaker-2.html
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The only thing that isn't sufficient is the power supply. We cannot run the heated bed at the same time as the heater cartridges so the startup procedure is the following:
- Heat the bed to 70°C
- power off the bed and heat the nozzles.
- start printing. Like this the first layer sticks perfectly to the bluetape. Both PLA and the soluble SM-310 stick well.
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I understand this is an easy way to mount the feeders, but the handle on the 2th feeder will be difficult to reach, and you have totally no visibility on the feeder anymore, and with this feeder and the official filament change routine you may need to remove some plastic sometimes with a pair of tweezers.... (it helps/prevents a lot when you use the wedge)
I see a few extra teflons are supplied... raising the question if the air cooling is sufficient....
nope. The lever is easy to access, the only difference is that you can't see if the motor is turning. Not a big problem since you can easily hear the motor and check if the filament is moving. I can send you a photo if you like tomorrow.
Regarding the couplers: those couplers are relatively cheap so there is no reason to sell a kit without some spares. As you may confirm: the first thing you need to replace (a part from filament) is the coupler so we just saved you shipping and lost time after about 400 hours of printing
Air cooling is sufficient. Unless you put the printer in an oven. Although I wouldn't suggest it unless it's turned off.
UMS5 Does anyone know anything about making changes to the firmware to change the print initialization sequence?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by sambianchibazzi
Thanks Smithy! Has this been confirmed from UM? I thought the new firmware architecture was going to allow the creation of custom firmware(s).